rebuild how to ?

[donho]

Ok ive searched at least a hundred or so threads and can't find tech help im starting to rebuild my sxl 925 have a new jug and piston etc. the jug has some sharp edges on the ports should I sand them down ? the saw seized up while rip cutting with a 24 inch blade while using all 24 seemed to heat a bit the piston is junk although the jug still looks good. should I do anything with the muffler? I need my homie back. thanks all







stihl 036pro stihl ts460 homie sxl925 hd6g a/c

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Try a search for "port smooth." I found this thread, amongst others,

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=13147&highlight=smooth+port

Then try a searc for "muffler mod." That will net you endless threads. You likely won't find threads specifically for your 925, but alot of ideals and practices apply across the board. That said, I don't know anything about that saw, and some older saws that are pre-epa don't really respond as well to muffler mods because their mufflers aren't too restricted in the first place. If you've already done these searches, then it'll be up to some of the old saw guys here.

Welcome to AS.

Jeff

 

[Crofter]

Radiusing the edge of ports. If the ring does not cross that edge of a port it need only have only the slightest of radius. Very often the intake port is not swept by the ring. Same goes for vertical edges of exhaust and transfers. Upper and lower edges should have the edges tapered or rounded to help squeese the ring back into piston groove without snagging. Removing material from vertical edges of ports only removes support from the ring so dont go heavy here with the sandpaper.

 

[donho]

many thanks to frank

good point Frank, I wasnt' even thinking about ports not coming in contact with the ports will take a good look and do what I always do use common sense and very little sandpaper and I guess light oil for assembely ?



036,sxl:greenchainsaw: 925,ts460

 

[RaisedByWolves]

925's Are great saws

There isint much to the muffler on them though, maby just take the baffle out. I left mine in to keep the back pressure and eliminate some of the spark hazard.

As far as the cylinder is concerned, I would remove any boogers that are in the transfers while staying away from the crome plating.

I would look at the cyl gasket for proper alignment also. some are oversized and can disrupt the flow somewhat. A trick I learned while racing R/C weedeater boats is to use a gasket sealer (not silicone)(I prefer loctite gasket eliminator) to glue the gasket to the cylinder.

Use only a small amount, spread evenly on the cyl side of the gasket only, and bolt up the cyl overnight. Remive the cyl and trim away any gasket that is in the ports with an exacto knife.

A little more in the case side of the gasket and install.


You could also just use the gasket eliminator and ditch the gasket, but Im not sure if this would cause a problem if your using it for milling or not.


Eric

 

[donho]

gasget trick

sounds like good advise to match the gasget up thanks Eric , as for all that answered my idea of cleaning up a new cylinder I just remember when boring out dirt bikes and using new piston and rings you always had to remove sharp edges to keep the rings from snagging a port I know this is a new cylinder but they just seemed sharp could be me thanks all