Rebuild Jonsered 630 Super II?

[Wolfrun]

Hello!
I have a Jonsered Super II that I bought in 1992 and has always been a great saw, but wouldn't start this spring, so took it to my local chainsaw shop and after it was torn down, he said it "wasn't worth fixing." Loose bearings and such. I had a used cylinder with decompression valve installed 2 years ago and it gave it a bit more power. It ran great until now. Trying to decide if I want to rebuild it (he said it needs a new engine) or buy a new saw. Bearings were loose. I really love this old beast and hate the thought of buying new after 30 years! Seems like most major engine components are still available. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Please feel free to recommend replacement saws should it come to that. I have a Stihl MS251C which has been a good little saw, but clearly not for 20" wood! Thanks in advance.

 

[Johnmn]

I have rebuilt probably over 20 of the jonsered 6xx series saws. They are indeed worth rebuilding in my opinion. A new replacement would be a Stihl 362, echo 620, makita 6100 or a husky 562. If you don't want to rebuild it I'd be happy to or I'd be happy to take it off your hands as well!

 

[holeycow]

Not the most professional fix, but there are bearing seating "goops" that are available. Loctite, for example, offers a few. They are an anaerobic product that work. Dimple the surface heavily with a punch first. I have used one of the loctite products once which has held up for about 3000 bales on a baler shaft/roller bearing interface. The clearance was significantly above recommended. The loading is significant in the worst possible direction for this application (perpendicular to bearing). So far, it as saved buying a new 2000 dollar shaft. As long as I am paying attention there should be no catastrophic failure.

just an avenue...may not be the best one. I would try it in my own old saw since I have a tiny bit of experience with it.

 

[KASH]

The saw shop says the bearings are loose BUT ARE THEY REALLY LOOSE or is he just trying to sell you a brand new saw.If you have no experience with mechanics get some one you trust to look at the saw.Most PRO saws last around 2000 hours with proper care.
Kash

 

[Wolfrun]

Hi Folks,

Thanks so much for all the great responses! I talked with the shop again yesterday and he maintains that "Parts are not available" and still recommends not trying to rebuild it. He absolutely won't use any aftermarket parts, and said NOS parts can't be found. Gonna go get it today and then decide after searching for NOS parts what I'm going to do. Not interested in rushing this; I want to make sure it's truly "dead" before replacing. He just said the bearings were "loose" but didn't elaborate. I'd love to find an experienced saw rebuilder that would put it back in shape. I'd gladly ship it to whomever could do the job. Thanks again for all the help and advice!

 

[Johnmn]

Hi Folks,

Thanks so much for all the great responses! I talked with the shop again yesterday and he maintains that "Parts are not available" and still recommends not trying to rebuild it. He absolutely won't use any aftermarket parts, and said NOS parts can't be found. Gonna go get it today and then decide after searching for NOS parts what I'm going to do. Not interested in rushing this; I want to make sure it's truly "dead" before replacing. He just said the bearings were "loose" but didn't elaborate. I'd love to find an experienced saw rebuilder that would put it back in shape. I'd gladly ship it to whomever could do the job. Thanks again for all the help and advice!

Everything can be found quite easily. The only hick-up would be a NOS piston and cylinder but if your cylinder is fine there is no use replacing it and with the piston I and many others use Meteor which is OEM quality.

 

[Wolfrun]

Well, can't say for sure about the piston/cylinder, but sounds like it can be done after all. I don't use it constantly, but when I need it, I need it. Can't justify new when it's used maybe 15 hours yearly. Many can agree that there is a "feel" that a saw gives you after having one for so long. I may be stubborn, but also want to keep what I have. Thanks!

 

[Mad Professor]

Well, can't say for sure about the piston/cylinder, but sounds like it can be done after all. I don't use it constantly, but when I need it, I need it. Can't justify new when it's used maybe 15 hours yearly. Many can agree that there is a "feel" that a saw gives you after having one for so long. I may be stubborn, but also want to keep what I have. Thanks!

Where in Vt are you? I know a shop in Vt run by a wonderful older gentleman who has a lot of old stihls and huskys in his shop. Next time I'm there I can check if there might be a 630 in the pile.

 

[KASH]

At 15 hours of use a year with proper care that 630 should have lasted you all the days of your life.Good luck on what ever course you take I agree on the feel of the 630 well balanced good speed and power one of my favorite saws.I have a 1984 model with well over 2000 hours on it no engine work done on it .it still runs well.
Kash

 

[Cantdog]

Well now......to rebuild a 630 Super II or not? First we have to look at what makes the Super II different from a regular 630 or a 630 Super. The Super II was the most advanced 630 built. The main differences were in the cyl, the case/ign and carb. The cyl of a Super II features a D shaped combustion chamber and pretty large transfer ports. This is the most powerful 48mm cyl for this saw. The flywheel side case half was changed to eliminate the seal carrier and allow for a one piece ign. to replace the earlier two piece version. The carb is recirculating type with and in and out set of fuel lines. IMHO these are great saws from a very extended family of red and orange saws and very worthy of rebuilding.
However reading the OP's descriptions leads us to a rather different saw. The P&C has been replaced with one with a decomp valve.....none of the Jonsered saws of this family ever came so equipped ......the only other saw of the entire family with a decomp is the 272XP Husky. The saw shop says it won't touch AM parts so we must assume they replaced the 48mm 630 top end with the 52MM 272 P&C....this would be in line with the OP saying it had more power after the cyl replacement. Parts should not be a issue......but some dealers have a reputation of tearing a saw down then telling the owner it's junk to sell them a new saw. Who knows if this is the case here or not. If indeed the main bearings are worn then the rebuild gets a bit more expensive but still not a reason not to rebuild as you will also have to attend to seals and such along the way so when it's done it's as close to new as you can get.

 

[Stihl99]

Rebuild it and keep it original
The clones if not already out will be out soon and you can laugh at those running those abominations.

 

[82F100SWB]

If it has a 272 top end on it, most everything is readily available. The 272 is still in production, or was until very very recently if it is finally discontinued.

 

[mogulmasher]

I put new bearings and seals in my 670 Champ last year. 630 Super would use same bearings and seals. I used oem husky 272 parts right from my local saw shop. Wasn't incredibly expensive.
And my cylinder, piston and rings were in great shape. I cleaned them up and reused them. Saw ran phenomenal once rebuilt.

 

[Wolfrun]

Hello Again Everyone!
Thanks so much for all the great responses, recommendations and comments. I made the decision to indeed rebuild this saw and it's now on the way to Johnmn in MN for a rebuild. He should have it Monday and we'll see what's next in the journey. I'm not sure if the replacement cylinder was a Husky 272 or not, but given the comments left, it would seem so. I got it from a person in PA a few years' ago and it was installed by my local shop. When it took my saw to him this time, he just didn't seem to want to bother with it and dismissed it as not worth the trouble, time or money. It's very possible he just wanted to sell me a new saw, but never offered to show me anything to replace it, even though he had a rack full of Husky's. I'll post when John is done with the saw and let you know the particulars. Again, my thanks!

Jim

 

[Johnmn]

Well I received the saw yesterday and took a peak this AM. It indeed has an oem 272 p&c that are in good shape.
At that time a 272 carb was also installed so this saw no longer has fast idle, not a huge deal. The first thing I noticed was the lack of compression but the p&c looked good, well the decomp was leaking!
Upon further inspection the crank bearings are fine and have zero play.
I found a couple other minor things like a broken dust shield for the oiler and a stripped head on one of the carb bolts but otherwise a pretty nice saw!
My recommendations for Jim were that we do seals, gaskets, a new ring, decomp, replace the carb screws, dust shield and do a fuel system makeover.

I'll get the crank bearing pics in a little bit.

 

[Johnmn]

Crank bearings, tight and smooth!

 

[Cantdog]

Good deal!! Glad things are not as dire as the saw shop alleged......nice looking saw.

 

[Wolfrun]

Thanks! We tried to keep it up.

 

[Wolfrun]

Crank bearings, tight and smooth!
View attachment 907588View attachment 907589

Great John! Thanks for the pics. That's what we like to hear!

 

[Johnmn]

Oiler cleaned up, new o-ring and seal ready for install.

I like to put grease on the back of the seals prior to install to ensure the spring stays put.

The 6xx series jonsereds and 2xx series huskys have a tendency to leak bar oil when sitting. A little 518 on the oiler hose and oil pump mating surfaces helps quite a bit.

I am waiting on parts arrival to continue with assembly.