Rebuilding Dad's 1980 Husqvarna 61 White top

[Dead61]

I'm trying to get my Dad's ~1980? Husqvarna 61 White Top in running action again. It was the saw I learned on as a kid and has a good amount of sentimental value to get going again.

The top of the clutch spider is cracked so it threads on too far and contacts the clutch drum. It's the old 1/2" coarse thread clutch.

I have a number of questions and was hoping someone could help answer some of them.

1. Does anyone have a clutch they would sell. I believe the part number is 501 40 32-02. This would fix most of my problems.
2. Do you think it would be possible to drill a hole in the centre of the existing clutch and then plug weld it to keep it from contacting the drum.
3. If that all fails, can I disassemble the saw and stick a new crank in it with the newer M10 fine thread clutch. Would the flywheel, con rod and clutch drum fit on the new crank assembly? Would only the crank need to be replaced?
4. If it was your dad's saw and had sentimental value, how would you fix it?

Thanks.

 

[Cantdog]

I'm trying to get my Dad's ~1980? Husqvarna 61 White Top in running action again. It was the saw I learned on as a kid and has a good amount of sentimental value to get going again.

The top of the clutch spider is cracked so it threads on too far and contacts the clutch drum. It's the old 1/2" coarse thread clutch.

I have a number of questions and was hoping someone could help answer some of them.

1. Does anyone have a clutch they would sell. I believe the part number is 501 40 32-02. This would fix most of my problems.
2. Do you think it would be possible to drill a hole in the centre of the existing clutch and then plug weld it to keep it from contacting the drum.
3. If that all fails, can I disassemble the saw and stick a new crank in it with the newer M10 fine thread clutch. Would the flywheel, con rod and clutch drum fit on the new crank assembly? Would only the crank need to be replaced?
4. If it was your dad's saw and had sentimental value, how would you fix it?

Thanks.

Well.....first welcome to the site. You can find the old coarse thread clutches on ebay from time to time. Make certain you can see the hex in the pics to see if it's cracked.

The best way out is to change to a later fine thread crankshaft. This is a lot of work.....plus you would need new crank seals and o-rings among other things this gives you the ability to select from several different clutches.

Unless you plan on modifying this saw I would just find an uncracked old style coarse thread clutch spyder and go with that.

 

[Woodslasher]

I'm trying to get my Dad's ~1980? Husqvarna 61 White Top in running action again. It was the saw I learned on as a kid and has a good amount of sentimental value to get going again.

The top of the clutch spider is cracked so it threads on too far and contacts the clutch drum. It's the old 1/2" coarse thread clutch.

I have a number of questions and was hoping someone could help answer some of them.

1. Does anyone have a clutch they would sell. I believe the part number is 501 40 32-02. This would fix most of my problems.
2. Do you think it would be possible to drill a hole in the centre of the existing clutch and then plug weld it to keep it from contacting the drum.
3. If that all fails, can I disassemble the saw and stick a new crank in it with the newer M10 fine thread clutch. Would the flywheel, con rod and clutch drum fit on the new crank assembly? Would only the crank need to be replaced?
4. If it was your dad's saw and had sentimental value, how would you fix it?

Thanks.

A buddy on a budget had the same clutch issue, I just heated the spider and whacked it flat. If I were going to use it a lot (he won’t), I’d just have someone weld it after you beat the raised area flat.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

A buddy on a budget had the same clutch issue, I just heated the spider and whacked it flat. If I were going to use it a lot (he won’t), I’d just have someone weld it after you beat the raised area flat.

If it cannot be fixed with a hammer..... you have an electrical problem!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

A photograph of the damaged clutch spider would be good.
It may be able to have a backyard repair done, hammer beat as suggested, maybe a wee weld or braze.
Or maybe someone nice here has a spare old coarse thread clutch they could sell you?

Personally, if it were mine and getting a revamp for the same reason, I would like to get away with replacing as little as possible- so it stays Dad's saw.
Replace the entire bottom end and you are stepping away from what it is and what it means to you.

 

[Dead61]

I'm out for work right now but I'll snap some pics as soon as I'm back.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[quattro.pilot]

A good TIG welder professional could fix it up better than new. I don't think it's too onerous to repair the old spyder.

 

[Clyde85]

If it were me and it was my dad's saw I would have no problem putting in the fine thread crank so I could use it again. Especially if he is still around to see it. I don't feel changing a crank and clutch to make it easier to get replacement parts for later takes away from the sentimental value. And on the plus side when you're done it will have new gaskets and seals.

 

[cookies]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353444447102?hash=item524aee437e:g:yqEAAOSwrYZgauyFany ebay stuff you need to ask questions to the seller for fitment, the seller may have the crank needed as well

 

[cookies]

this first one looks like it has coarse threads, you may have to order a few and return the incorrect versions if sellers are ding dongs
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203213848481?hash=item2f507d3fa1:g:AM4AAOSw2PVf0SZw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333869371402?hash=item4dbc2a500a:g:SV8AAOSwjkxgD-CEyou can always get a fine thread clutch, have it filled in then drilled and tapped to fit but like others have stressed you may find one that fits now but in 10 years it likely will get much harder to replace plus a full rebuild is a pretty great journey that I think everyone should make at least once in life regardless of the cost. I have made that journey more than once and its a fabulous feeling.

 

[Dead61]

Thanks for everyone's help. I did manage to get a new clutch spider and it's cutting wood again. Now I just have to figure out the way over the top bar oil issue.

 

[Clyde85]

The adjustment screw is on the face of the pump. When looking at the clutch it will be to the upper left hand side.

 

[CNYCountry]

A photograph of the damaged clutch spider would be good.
It may be able to have a backyard repair done, hammer beat as suggested, maybe a wee weld or braze.
Or maybe someone nice here has a spare old coarse thread clutch they could sell you?

Personally, if it were mine and getting a revamp for the same reason, I would like to get away with replacing as little as possible- so it stays Dad's saw.
Replace the entire bottom end and you are stepping away from what it is and what it means to you.

This is my father's axe. I've replaced the handle three times and the head once but it's my father's axe.

 

[Husky77]

Good luck in your quest the saw is a good one that is easy to work on, plenty of stairs about but if you can get s/h oem over Chinese clones as they will probably last longer and will fit perfect.

 

[Cycledude]

I have the exact same Husqvarna 61 bought new in about 1981, the biggest issue it ever had was the coils went bad once and were expensive to replace. When the clutch wore out I bought a nice used clutch for $10 from local dealer. Also because the saw was Pretty old and had so many hours on it I bought a new 562xp .

 

[Wombat Ranger]

Fun project. My 1989 61 was my first saw, it has no family history, I got it from a friend, but as my first saw, and only for many years, I have become attached to it. As much as they get a rap for being heavy and slow, mine cuts plenty fast for most firewood duties, once I replaced the 24" bar that came on it with a 20". I was planning for a while to put a 268 or 272 top end on it, instead I downsized the bar/chain and I think I'll just let the saw be happily "under powered." Maybe it'll last another 30 years this way.

I see you've already solved the clutch issue, but I would still like to put in my two cents. If I were in your shoes, I would have done exactly what you did, find a good used clutch that goes right on. Fixing what's broke instead of making it a bigger project than it needs to be. However if that option fails you in the future, I wouldn't hesitate to replace the crank. In the end, it'll still be dad's saw, looking just the way it always did, even if it needed a replacement bottom end.

Just don't leave it on the backhoe tire or dozer track.

 

[Cycledude]

Fun project. My 1989 61 was my first saw, it has no family history, I got it from a friend, but as my first saw, and only for many years, I have become attached to it. As much as they get a rap for being heavy and slow, mine cuts plenty fast for most firewood duties, once I replaced the 24" bar that came on it with a 20". I was planning for a while to put a 268 or 272 top end on it, instead I downsized the bar/chain and I think I'll just let the saw be happily "under powered." Maybe it'll last another 30 years this way.

I see you've already solved the clutch issue, but I would still like to put in my two cents. If I were in your shoes, I would have done exactly what you did, find a good used clutch that goes right on. Fixing what's broke instead of making it a bigger project than it needs to be. However if that option fails you in the future, I wouldn't hesitate to replace the crank. In the end, it'll still be dad's saw, looking just the way it always did, even if it needed a replacement bottom end.

Just don't leave it on the backhoe tire or dozer track.

Yea learned the lesson about not setting a saw on a dozer track from a neighbor who unfortunately learned it the hard way about all he said was dam that was the best saw I ever owned.

 

[Too manysaws]

I'm trying to get my Dad's ~1980? Husqvarna 61 White Top in running action again. It was the saw I learned on as a kid and has a good amount of sentimental value to get going again.

The top of the clutch spider is cracked so it threads on too far and contacts the clutch drum. It's the old 1/2" coarse thread clutch.

I have a number of questions and was hoping someone could help answer some of them.

1. Does anyone have a clutch they would sell. I believe the part number is 501 40 32-02. This would fix most of my problems.
2. Do you think it would be possible to drill a hole in the centre of the existing clutch and then plug weld it to keep it from contacting the drum.
3. If that all fails, can I disassemble the saw and stick a new crank in it with the newer M10 fine thread clutch. Would the flywheel, con rod and clutch drum fit on the new crank assembly? Would only the crank need to be replaced?
4. If it was your dad's saw and had sentimental value, how would you fix it?

Thanks.

You could get the new type clutch and retread to the old coarse thread

 

[Captain Bruce]

I am in this same pickle today.I trusted the parts diagram, not realizing it was for a later serial #. Once I found the correct diagram, with a few different #'s, I was off to the races. Yes, the coarse thread part is hard to find. Correct pt# is 501 40 32-02.

I won't cobble up the saw, I'll just be patient. This original clutch has the long coil spring, and the shoes are worn out. I'd love to rebuild it if I could find the part numbers for these shoes.