Refreshing an old Stihl 038AV

[Pikeshadow]

Howdy all,
I've lurked on the site for years...finally signed up.

I have an old 038 - I bought it used, almost 30 years ago from a tree company refreshing their equipment. I used it for a number of years cutting firewood, it then because an "occasional use" tool.
A few years ago I tried to clear a small lot with it and started having issues after felling a couple large trees (running poorly, leaking fuel). I realized the fuel breather line had simply disintegrated. along with part of the fuel cap seal (thanks ethanol!).
Not having the time to work on it, I picked up a low-end Husky to finish the job. Last summer I took the Stihl in to get a tune up, and found out the crankcase seal was leaky.

I've decided to tear it down and refresh it with my son, it's something he could easily get 20 years of occasional use out of.

I picked up a gasket/seal kit to get the crankcase sealed back up. Anything else I should plan on automatically doing while its apart? (Is there somewhere I can get new fuel lines/impulse line/etc?)

Thanks!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I picked up a gasket/seal kit to get the crankcase sealed back up. Anything else I should plan on automatically doing while its apart? (Is there somewhere I can get new fuel lines/impulse line/etc?)

Thanks!

pressure and vacuum test

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

038 lines should still be available from your dealer or eBay. Don’t use aftermarket lines.
The 1119 series saws Ive been into usually need a new airfilter. Again, OEM only on that part.

 

[Mad Professor]

As already mentioned above. Check/replace all hoses and check intake boot well, carb kit too. If P/C are OK maybe a set of rings since you have gasket kit.

How is compression and how does piston/cyl look through intake/exhaust?

 

[irhunter]

I'm mostly done with my 038M refresh. The dealer does have fuel and impulse lines. I decided to go with the curved fuel line from a newer 036 as I don't care for the short straight lines.

I used some of the excess impulse line to make a new tank vent. Homemade grub screws.

The only thing I needed which seems to be NLA is the carb-boot-manifold...which I found NOS on Ebay.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I'm mostly done with my 038M refresh. The dealer does have fuel and impulse lines. I decided to go with the curved fuel line from a newer 036 as I don't care for the short straight lines.

I used some of the excess impulse line to make a new tank vent. Homemade grub screws.

The only thing I needed which seems to be NLA is the carb-boot-manifold...which I found NOS on Ebay.

Have you pressure and Vac tester the saw, the nozzel check valve in carby and needle for sealing?

 

[irhunter]

Have you pressure and Vac tester the saw, the nozzel check valve in carby and needle for sealing?

I am enough of a reader of this site...I pressure and vac test every saw that comes to me with any issues. Yes...the 038 came to me having good pressure/vac/compression tests.

I have not done the carb yet. I always just pop in a carb kit when dealing with Walbro carbs...their kits are just so cheap and easy to get ahold of. I have put off the carb work on the Bing on the 038...but, it now seems I will need to go in for a rebuild.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I am enough of a reader of this site...I pressure and vac test every saw that comes to me with any issues. Yes...the 038 came to me having good pressure/vac/compression tests.

I have not done the carb yet. I always just pop in a carb kit when dealing with Walbro carbs...their kits are just so cheap and easy to get ahold of. I have put off the carb work on the Bing on the 038...but, it now seems I will need to go in for a rebuild.

Sorry thought you were the OP, you just came in half way through with your post and caught me off guard.

 

[Pikeshadow]

Thanks for the input all!
I am still tearing it down, the piston has an almost mirror finish on the sides. I’m not sure if my compression tester was working properly, I only got 30 PSI cranking it before I started pulling it apart…the rings look pretty shiny too, I’m wondering if they are shot - that could explain the horrible compression numbers. (Or I didn’t test compression correctly.)

 

[Pikeshadow]

A couple pics from exhaust and intake ports…

 

[irhunter]

If you are, for sure, installing a seal/gasket kit...I would just forge on, and get her apart.

And, I'd buy a set a Caber rings...considering: age, and unknown hours, and questionable compression.

Roy

 

[Pikeshadow]

Sounds good, I’ll grab a set.
Can anyone assist with how to remove the chain brake mechanism? The pin holding the end seems to be pressed in…I can’t see how its supposed to come out to release the band spring.

 

[irhunter]

You got the shop manual and parts list for this saw?

I just had mine apart. The so-called "lever" (1117 162 5020) was hogged out and needed replacing.

If it is the pin at 3:00 in your pic...it doesn't need to come out. Pull the brake band out of the saw, and then lift and wiggle the stuff mounted on that pin up.

At least, that is how I remember it.

 

[irhunter]

Oops...I now see you don't have to pull the band before pulling the stuff off the pin.

 

[Pikeshadow]

Oops...I now see you don't have to pull the band before pulling the stuff off the pin.

No, no shop manual or parts list. (If someone had a PDF of them I would be grateful!)
I was talking about the pin at 12 o’clock - not the end with the two C clips, but the back end of the band that’s looped 180 degrees around a shiny large pin.

 

[irhunter]

Manual and IPL in your inbox.

 

[Mad Professor]

No, no shop manual or parts list. (If someone had a PDF of them I would be grateful!)
I was talking about the pin at 12 o’clock - not the end with the two C clips, but the back end of the band that’s looped 180 degrees around a shiny large pin.

You're all set download them

shop manual is too big....

Ask any questions about 038, I've been running them 30 years

 

[Pikeshadow]

I appreciate the quick inputs and help.
I thought I was going to get the cylinder off today, but the T-27 6“ bit I ordered was an Irwin that’s too big to fit in the cylinder holes…gotta order the correct one and wait a couple days…

 

[Mad Professor]

I appreciate the quick inputs and help.
I thought I was going to get the cylinder off today, but the T-27 6“ bit I ordered was an Irwin that’s too big to fit in the cylinder holes…gotta order the correct one and wait a couple days…

Stihl dealer has those cheap. They came in saw tool kits. Better yet gat a Whia or Snap On......

 

[Pikeshadow]

I got the new wrench and removed the cylinder...P&C look pretty good to my eye. Now to get the blasted case apart…I picked up a case splitter, but it’s the husky type that needs to straddle the case - and I don’t want to remove the piston (Grr).