"Remington SL9" no spark

[ImDudelin]

I had this posted in another forum; it was suggested that if I post it here I would get the help I need.

Thanks for the post. I read all five pages of the troubleshooting thread you mentioned. Learned a lot, but still in the dark <G>.
Must be someone out there that knows how the wires run from the mag.
I've got the cable to the plug coming out. Also, a black wire that should go to where? I have a "module/electronic" with two wires. One I'm sure goes to ground. I believe the other was connected to the black wire from the mag. I have checked my kill switch with a meter; reads as it should. It has one single wire. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me but I believe that it went to ground. It seems that the black wire from the mag should also have been connected to it so that you can ground out the saw. I mean, the black wire to the module and also the kill wire connected to it. BTW, I still have the points and condenser installed and it used to run that way.
Does anyone know what the gap should be between the flywheel magnets and the mag? It seems to be pretty close, and there doesn't appear to be a way to adjust it; bolted in nonslotted holes.
There is one other wire that appears to come from the mag that is grounded. I read on one post that sometimes it loses its connection; to clean metal where its bolted on. I'll do that next.
No one said anything about the Craftsman saw I'm considering. I'll take that as a negative; I haven't bought it yet.

If the saw ain't gonna work, fine, I can accept that cause I know most parts are not replaceable. I'd just like to make my best shot before dumping it. Afterall, it did run a couple times when I pulled it out last month, once for about ten minutes while doing some test cuts.
Thanks guys!
Bru

 

[ImDudelin]

No help out there?

OK, am I jumpin' the gun on getting some help on my old Remington,
or is it a dumb question and isn't worth a response? <G>
If its because you don't understand my question, let me know that too.

Tks much!

 

[04ultra]

read this whole thread...

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35377

 

[RaisedByWolves]

No Dudelin, not a dumb question at all, its just that prolly most of us are stumped as there is two different ignitions that your working with there.


Im sure than many of us are able to fit an atom module to a stock ignition and/or sort out a stock ignition from scratch, but you have a genuine bag"O"worms there.


The best way to get some help may be to post some pics of the ignition and the saw. (what with pics being worth a million words in cases like this)

Mabye this will jog someones memorie?


I even have an SL4 that I may be willing to disassemble and take some pics of to help sort this out.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Ultra, he read that thread. He originally posted his question in the milling section and I told him he would get a better response here.

 

[coveredinsap]

Did the pics on the other thread help any? On that Remington 754, the black wire coming from behind the top of the points housing ran to the single post switch. There was no 'ground' wire on the original switch....I'm assuming the body of the switch was uninsulated and formed the ground.

 

[sawinredneck]

Nice post SAP , but I am having a feeling that the issues may go deeper. Could it be the wire to the points or the condensor wire came loose? I is it possible that someone may have put on an aftermarket electronic ignition and just cut the wires, the saw got wore out, cut the module off and used it on another saw? These old saw you just never know what people have done to them!!!!!
Just some thoughts, I may be way off here?!?!?!
Andy

 

[Gravely Grinch]

I have one of those saws. Somebody brought this thing to me in a box completely disassembled. I'll dig it out and see what's there if you're interested in a parts saw.

 

[ImDudelin]

You guys are great...

Maybe I can get my old saw going afterall.
The pictures thing is a good idea. I don't have a digital camera, and I may need a bit of help posting them, but I can get both. It'll take a bit of time. In the meantime, I just went out and looked at the saw again. BTW, I also went and reread the thread on troubleshooting. Specifics:
Its a Wards PowerKraft 2.8 (fairly sure SL9), model TMC 2475 A. It has a 16" bar and on the tip it says Remington. I bought the saw 30 years ago, used it for several years cutting mosty white oak for firewood. I always felt that it was a good cuttin' lil' saw, and can remember about the only problem was it seemed to run hot. Anyway, couple weeks ago I pulled it out, fooled around a few hours, got it goin once, then it quit, got it going again for about 10 minutes. Quit, no spark.
I know I'm repeating myself but the electronic "ignition" is a "Power-Start, power lawnmower, out of Rochester, NY. I can't say how many years ago I put it in (long time) but it worked. Its 1" by 1.5" by 3/16 or so thick; gray plastic; 2 wires: blue to ground, white to ? I think it was an early one meaning I'm not sure exactly just what it took the place of. Points (?), condenser (?)???
This is my problem at the moment. I have owned this saw since new, I put the part in, but in the process of troubleshooting it, connecting and reconnecting, the wires kind of coming apart, I need to know what wire goes where. I know for sure that the one wire went to ground. The other white one I believe was connected to a wire coming from the coil, or mag (whatever you call it). The switch is a single wire, and it works, but the wire goes to ? Should all three be connected together? I'm just trying to get a starting point again as I feel that either I had a bad wire connection (I hope), or the magneto is bad (not good).

I don't understand anymore if the points and condenser are still connected, but I believe they are. I did try unhooking the module and starting from the points etc but my wiring may have been goofed up. Need to try it again.

Is they a way to check the coil with a meter? Condenser?

Appreciate all the help and suggestions!

 

[coveredinsap]

According to another thread somewhere hereabouts, those old electronic ignition modules aren't exactly the most reliable or long lasting parts in the chainsaw world...particularly the early ones.

 

[ray benson]

Its 1" by 1.5" by 3/16 or so thick; gray plastic; 2 wires: blue to ground, white to ? I think it was an early one meaning I'm not sure exactly just what it took the place of. Points (?), condenser (?)???
This is my problem at the moment. I have owned this saw since new, I put the part in, but in the process of troubleshooting it, connecting and reconnecting, the wires kind of coming apart, I need to know what wire goes where. I know for sure that the one wire went to ground. The other white one I believe was connected to a wire coming from the coil, or mag (whatever you call it). The switch is a single wire, and it works, but the wire goes to ? Should all three be connected together? I'm just trying to get a starting point again as I feel that either I had a bad wire connection (I hope), or the magneto is bad (not good).

The electronic module replaces the points and condenser. Believe you got it right. The stop switch wire, the coil wire and the electronic module wire should all go together. The other side of the electronic module goes to ground.

 

[ImDudelin]

Did the pics on the other thread help any? On that Remington 754, the black wire coming from behind the top of the points housing ran to the single post switch. There was no 'ground' wire on the original switch....I'm assuming the body of the switch was uninsulated and formed the ground.

I wasn't able to pull up all the pics but understand. Will be trying that next, bypassing the electronic ignition. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[ImDudelin]

Remington SL9 no spark

The electronic module replaces the points and condenser. Believe you got it right. The stop switch wire, the coil wire and the electronic module wire should all go together. The other side of the electronic module goes to ground.

Worked on the saw earlier today. Pulled off the flywheel. Checked the points. Don't look bad; they were at about 17 thousands-I left that way. Ran ohm checks on everything. The only strange thing was the wire from the stationary point (which the condenser is also attached to) didn't seem to go anywhere. I couldn't get a reading on my meter. This wire would normally connect to the electronic module and the kill switch. I suppose that I will have to pull off the plate that the points etc. mount to in order to check out the wire more closely. Its weird. It doesn't short out to ground, and it seems fairly well protected so no reason to lose conductivity. No time to take off the plate today but will be next step.
I did put it back together without the module and without wire to on/off switch. Still getting nothing.
Am I right? The black wire coming from the points/condenser normally would go to the off switch to ground out the engine. Since it was not connected, and not shorting to ground, I should have gotten spark.
How do I check the coil?

BTW, Ray, I now can see that that is the correct wiring. I had two wires coming from black wire; one to white to module, one to switch.