Replaceable Bar Noses
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The number of teeth on the bar nose sprocket is determined by the chain pitch. I think you have confused that with the number of teeth on the drive sprocket. There are a variety of sprockets available for many of the saws we use. Generally speaking, more teeth on the sprocket = faster chain speed, but more load on the engine. If your engine has been modified (ported / muffler mod / etc) or if you are usually cutting softer wood, then a larger drive sprocket can equate to faster production. Using a larger drive sprocket on a stock saw in hardwoods usually means slower times due to having to back the saw out of the cut more often.
:agree2:
Another point I'll add is that there are some folk here who have stated that the shape of the bar is a factor in bore cutting. Reduced kickback bars (like Stihl Rollomatic E) tend to be narrower at the tip than traditional bars (like Stihl Rollomatic ES). Traditional bars have a reputation for being more efficient at bore/plunge cutting.
Another point I'll add is that there are some folk here who have stated that the shape of the bar is a factor in bore cutting. Reduced kickback bars (like Stihl Rollomatic E) tend to be narrower at the tip than traditional bars (like Stihl Rollomatic ES). Traditional bars have a reputation for being more efficient at bore/plunge cutting.
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stevohut
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Yes I understand about the drive sprocket # of teeth already tried an 8 tooth sprocket on my saw but went back to the 7. I just was wondering why there are so many different styles of bar nose inserts and what makes 1 better then another. I have an ES bar on my saw already. THNX
Steve
Each bar manufacturer seems to have their own bar nose design. Other than "carving bars" they are substantially the same. The only differences I have seen are in how they mount to the bar (the shape of the connection, number of rivets / bolts, etc.). If you have a replaceable nose bar, you will most likely need to replace it with one from the bar manufacturer.
Carving bars are VERY different. They are named based on the diameter of the tip of the nose (dime, quarter, etc.). The purpose of that is to be able to do finer detail and narrower plunges.
Carving bars are VERY different. They are named based on the diameter of the tip of the nose (dime, quarter, etc.). The purpose of that is to be able to do finer detail and narrower plunges.
Typically, the size of the sprocket on the end is determined by the width of the bar. Skinny bars are usually cheaper & lighter; also less inclined toward kickback and less able to do boring cuts. Most bars are engineered with a width that gives a smooth chain-feed into and out of the powerhead. Bigger saws have bigger chain drive sprockets, and they have wider bars as a consequence.
The cheap little asymmetric bars with tiny little noses are engineered to prevent boring cuts. They also can't be flipped top for bottom to wear out both sides equally. I have never seen one with a replaceable tip, so I guess that does not really apply to this question, does it?
The cheap little asymmetric bars with tiny little noses are engineered to prevent boring cuts. They also can't be flipped top for bottom to wear out both sides equally. I have never seen one with a replaceable tip, so I guess that does not really apply to this question, does it?
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