Restoring a Poulan 3400

[Roanoker494]

I am new to the site and just wanted to share my newest saw "on the bench". I have restored many Husqvarna saws over the years but this is my first Poulan. I grabbed it off Ebay for $45, including shipping, and it showed up in fairly decent shape. I know I am going to throw more money into this saw than it could ever be worth, but I am just looking for a solid saw to show off. So far I have purchased a complete gasket kit, new rings, carb kit, recoil pulley, air filter, a spare piston and cylinder and even found two spray cans of factory Poulan green paint. I am considering replacing the bearings while I am inside the case, anyone know if I will need any special tools for that? I am interested in doing some power mods as well and would like a few opinions on what works for these Poulans.

Thanks folks

 

[heimannm]

Modified Mark will show up soon enough with good information and advice.

 

[rms61moparman]

Congratulations!!!

You have one of the easiest saws ever to work on and mod.
They are practically indestructable and with a little work will run with a lot of the saws we are buying today.
The worst thing about them is the press fit wrist pin but that can be overcome.
As far as the seals I think you will be able to replace them if you are careful but as my friend heimannm stated, Mark will be along to spell it out for you in detail.


Mike

 

[heimannm]

Sorry Mike, you were also in my thoughts but I couldn't remember the handle...

Mark

 

[rms61moparman]

Sorry Mike, you were also in my thoughts but I couldn't remember the handle...

Mark

You got lucky!!!

A lot of people TRY to forget me, but only the really lucky ones succeed!!!LOL


Mike

 

[jimdad07]

Welcome to Arboristsite. Good luck with your restoration, when you figure out the picture posting, don't be afraid to show it off.

 

[barneyrb]

Any man restoring a Poulan will get rep from me..... Very solid saw and ahead of it's time when built in the 70's

 

[Guido Salvage]

Was this the saw that Southworth in Cumberland had listed several weeks ago? They are good saws, my first new saw purchase was one in 1983. Ran reliably until this spring, it is torn down now waiting for me to get inspired to put the new rings in it.

I think I now have 4 of them as well as a 4000. If you can get it up and running by next weekend bring it over to Field Day of the Past in Goochland and run it there.

Here is one with a bow attachment.

 

[RandyMac]

I got two 3400s a week ago, I'll be going through them shortly. Other than being packed full of mud dobber nests, only basic maintainance items will be needed. After I ran Farley's 3400, I got to thinking about finding one, they found me instead.

 

[sunfish]

3400 is a great saw! I bought mine used in 1987 and cut a whole bunch of wood for 13 years with it. Still runs good today and has never been worked on. Needs a little TLC, might get to that this winter.

 

[turtle561]

tool

a little press for pushing the wrist pin in & out of the rod on these poulans. the key is the joiner nuts for the 10-24 allthread rod. regular 10-24 nuts stripped out on me. it wouldn't hurt to warm the rod up. they are tight.
drill optional.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I am new to the site and just wanted to share my newest saw "on the bench". I have restored many Husqvarna saws over the years but this is my first Poulan. I grabbed it off Ebay for $45, including shipping, and it showed up in fairly decent shape. I know I am going to throw more money into this saw than it could ever be worth, but I am just looking for a solid saw to show off. So far I have purchased a complete gasket kit, new rings, carb kit, recoil pulley, air filter, a spare piston and cylinder and even found two spray cans of factory Poulan green paint. I am considering replacing the bearings while I am inside the case, anyone know if I will need any special tools for that? I am interested in doing some power mods as well and would like a few opinions on what works for these Poulans.

Thanks folks

Nope no special tools to split that case, the brgs are needle type and not roller. You may want to check the end play on the crank before you pull it apart and if it seems excessive you may want to replace the thrust washers on it while its apart.

The brgs are pressed in the case but I just drive em out with a bushing driver. A couple of correct sized sockets and a large vise or press will work as well.

The guys before me already mentioned the hardest part being the piston pin pressed into the rod. Looks like Turtles homemade setup will work well and is easier to make then the one that I did.

When installing the crank seals, make sure to use a wrap of some sort on the clutch side to protect the seal lips from damage and turning them over.

As far as power mods, Mike would be the one to ask as he has been experimenting with them for some time now and has a couple of screamers.

I know they like to have the mufflers modded and opended up. I also know to be carefull with any aftermarket air filters as some don't fit to well and will let crap get by the edges of them. A 3700 air filter cover is a good way to go on them as well.

Like the others said, there a good ole saw for sure.

Modified Mark will show up soon enough with good information and advice.

Dang, I'm getting too predictable! You know when I get home at night and everything!

 

[Roanoker494]

Thanks fellers

I have already did a little research on the piston pin issue, being a former Husqvarna man I don't have a lot of experience with pressed pins. I also picked up a set of NOS decals off ebay and I am currently watching for a set of bearings and thrust washers, going to replace them weather they are bad or not. I will try to get a few pictures up soon, unfortunately I torn the saw apart before I took any pictures. There was nothing unusual to note, just the normal five pounds of oily saw dust. The saw had 120psi compression, which is acceptable from what I have seen on here. I am going to swap on my spare piston/cylinder because the current piston looks fairly dull in color. Shouldn't the piston be very glossy? Also the spare cylinder is off a very low hour saw and still has a very visible cross-hatch. I have been giving a few ideas on mods already, like replacing the head gasket with a high grade sealant to tighten up the compression ratio. I am very interested in muffler mods and was wondering how polishing the intake and exhaust runners would work out? I am not a fan of the stock muffler design, looks like the exhaust actually exits the rear of the muffler and runs straight into baffle that forces it outward. I am considering opening up the front and installing a exit like you see on some of the old Husqvarna 2100/2101 mufflers. I am not looking to have it outrun a 100cc saw, but holding up against a 70cc saw may be possible. As far as the air filter I purchased a OEM Poulan filter from a Poulan dealer, I would always prefer OEM over aftermarket. I can't say this build is a "money is no object" deal but I am not going to short change the quality either.

 

[Modifiedmark]

You can still order brgs and thrust washers from Poulan.

 

[redunshee]

You can still order brgs and thrust washers from Poulan.

If there is no lateral play in the crankshaft you might not need to replace the bearings. Of the many 3400's I've seen its unusual to have then go bad. If you're looking for something to do then replacing the bearings and thrust washers is a good place to start.

 

[redunshee]

I have already did a little research on the piston pin issue, being a former Husqvarna man I don't have a lot of experience with pressed pins. I also picked up a set of NOS decals off ebay and I am currently watching for a set of bearings and thrust washers, going to replace them weather they are bad or not. I will try to get a few pictures up soon, unfortunately I torn the saw apart before I took any pictures. There was nothing unusual to note, just the normal five pounds of oily saw dust. The saw had 120psi compression, which is acceptable from what I have seen on here. I am going to swap on my spare piston/cylinder because the current piston looks fairly dull in color. Shouldn't the piston be very glossy? Also the spare cylinder is off a very low hour saw and still has a very visible cross-hatch. I have been giving a few ideas on mods already, like replacing the head gasket with a high grade sealant to tighten up the compression ratio. I am very interested in muffler mods and was wondering how polishing the intake and exhaust runners would work out? I am not a fan of the stock muffler design, looks like the exhaust actually exits the rear of the muffler and runs straight into baffle that forces it outward. I am considering opening up the front and installing a exit like you see on some of the old Husqvarna 2100/2101 mufflers. I am not looking to have it outrun a 100cc saw, but holding up against a 70cc saw may be possible. As far as the air filter I purchased a OEM Poulan filter from a Poulan dealer, I would always prefer OEM over aftermarket. I can't say this build is a "money is no object" deal but I am not going to short change the quality either.

3400's have chrome plated pistons and aluminum bores, exactly opposite the 3700 setup. In terms of muffler modding, I enlarge the baffle holes and remove the spark screen. I then drill two 3/8 holes in the lower front of the muffler. If I had welding skills I'd add a side exhaust tube, but lacking those skills I drill the front holes. I try to stay within the 90% of exhaust port opening for the total area of my holes, including the existing rear opening's.

Bob

 

[RandyMac]

3400's have chrome plated pistons and aluminum bores, exactly opposite the 3700 setup. In terms of muffler modding, I enlarge the baffle holes and remove the spark screen. I then drill two 3/8 holes in the lower front of the muffler. If I had welding skills I'd add a side exhaust tube, but lacking those skills I drill the front holes. I try to stay within the 90% of exhaust port opening for the total area of my holes, including the existing rear opening's.

Bob

I did pretty much that exact thing, I haven't cut with it yet and will keep one muffler stock to make a comparison. Next time the outer holes will be near the top using a modified heat shield for a deflector.

 

[Roanoker494]

Was this the saw that Southworth in Cumberland had listed several weeks ago? They are good saws, my first new saw purchase was one in 1983. Ran reliably until this spring, it is torn down now waiting for me to get inspired to put the new rings in it.

I think I now have 4 of them as well as a 4000. If you can get it up and running by next weekend bring it over to Field Day of the Past in Goochland and run it there.

Here is one with a bow attachment.

I bought it from a man in Brant, MI.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350386306718&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Just bought a second saws off the same man, not sure of the model but it is a old Sears branded saw.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350391745917&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

[Roanoker494]

a little press for pushing the wrist pin in & out of the rod on these poulans. the key is the joiner nuts for the 10-24 allthread rod. regular 10-24 nuts stripped out on me. it wouldn't hurt to warm the rod up. they are tight.
drill optional.

Thank you for the idea on the piston pin press, I will be stopping by Lowes for the supplies tomorrow. I will have to swap the piston twice though, I am the guy who stands back to look at his good job to realize the piston is on backwards.

 

[Roanoker494]

If there is no lateral play in the crankshaft you might not need to replace the bearings. Of the many 3400's I've seen its unusual to have then go bad. If you're looking for something to do then replacing the bearings and thrust washers is a good place to start.

If I hold the flywheel and clutch then push push down on one side, while pulling up on the other, there is some rocking motion. There is a little back and forth play but nothing that I think would be a issue. I will have to wait till I get inside the case before I make a decision on the bearings and thrust washers. I have been told that the type of bearing that the 3400 uses will seem loose when compared to ball bearings, but I have no experience to base that on. I have never personally had to replace the crank bearings in a saw before, though I did buy and part out a Husqvarna 394xp that had bad bearings.