gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Used a steel biner to join to ropes together when I pulled a Norway spruce over. (Needed lots of room) but this happened. How did it get distorted like this being loaded on its major axis?
Rigging biner fail
- Thread starter gorman
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Looks like an overload to me. We're you pulling with a truck? That biner's only rated for about 6000lbs. Jeff
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
My skid loader. It's just weird how it distort like that from an overload. It's rated for 56 kilo newtons.
flushcut
Addicted to ArboristSite
Side loaded or the gate was open during the pull would be my guess.
A good reason to keep the mechanicals out of a pulling situation.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
If I need more length in a pull line I just tie them together. It dont take much to overload a biner
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gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe a shackle next time.
treeclimber101
UNCLE BUCK
You pulled hard !
It looks to me like it was pounded on by something. There is a dent in the locking gate, right above the bottom bent area. The top bend is crushed inward toward the latch, but on the opposite side from the first bend.
I'd guess the tree fell on it. Or something crushed/whacked it real hard.
I'd guess the tree fell on it. Or something crushed/whacked it real hard.
That biner is actually rated to 12,600 lbs (56Kn).
Damage doesn't occur to the locking sleeve under major axis load. I've got a buddy who worked in a test lab for a carabiner mfr and all he did was test pull and break gear all day. The failure is always at one of two point when loaded on the long axis; Top of the spine where it begins to curve, or at the nose. The locking sleeve simply doesn't get gacked from a major axis load.
My theory: either the tree landed on it, it was like that before, or you ran it over. The damage seen in not consistent with your use.
Damage doesn't occur to the locking sleeve under major axis load. I've got a buddy who worked in a test lab for a carabiner mfr and all he did was test pull and break gear all day. The failure is always at one of two point when loaded on the long axis; Top of the spine where it begins to curve, or at the nose. The locking sleeve simply doesn't get gacked from a major axis load.
My theory: either the tree landed on it, it was like that before, or you ran it over. The damage seen in not consistent with your use.
Nice call, l pdql. Looking back at the pic, I'd agree with the damage happening on impact. Yet another reason to limit mechanicals.
gorman
Addicted to ArboristSite
That does make sense. I was felling it so I couldn't see how it landed. I'll ask my guys how it landed.
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
If I have to put 2 ropes together, instead of using a link to connect them, I tie them and put the biner in the bight of one of them, then, when I go to untie, I can slide the biner out, creating space to help break them loose. The biner never takes weight,its only purpose is to prevent the ropes "welding" themselves together. I have some of those, and that is a tough one. I would agree that it was a impact that did that. Throw it away.Used a steel biner to join to ropes together when I pulled a Norway spruce over. (Needed lots of room) but this happened. How did it get distorted like this being loaded on its major axis?
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I suggest learning how to tie ropes together so that no biner is needed, even in the bight. Ashley book of knots will tell you...I don't have mine here, but I know the knot to use.
Blakesmaster
Addicted to ArboristSite
Am I missing something here? A bowline on either end of each rope always worked for me. K.I.S.S. No need for fancy knots or biners or magic. Just tie the damn ropes together and cut the ****ing tree already.
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Well...If you had learned a few more knots, then you might be able to use one that was a little stronger, a bit more streamlined, and absolutely will never bind up when loaded.
2 bowlines is fine, too. They can still squeeze down pretty damn tight when you pull them with a truck. A bowline is structurally the same knot as a sheet bend; another good choice for joining two ropes under a load.
2 bowlines is fine, too. They can still squeeze down pretty damn tight when you pull them with a truck. A bowline is structurally the same knot as a sheet bend; another good choice for joining two ropes under a load.
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
I know the knots, throw in the biner and you will break it loose quicker. No matter the knot. You put enough tension on them, they all "weld" and can be a motha to get loose. I dont have time for that, groundies messing with tight knots. I want it loose and I want it now. So hurry the F up and next time put that damn biner in there.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I have used a stick instead of a biner before to.
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Like I said: there are knots that are made to slip loose, no matter how tight you pull them. I have broken 1/2" stable braid, but the holding knot still falls apart in my hands. If a carabiner works for you, just keep using it. Myself, I will do without, using a knot that needs no biner.
I did it just yesterday: we had a 400lb (or more) log right by the gutter of a house. Rigged a pulley to lift it away when cut loose. I attached the port-a-wrap to the bumper using my hi pressure knot on a tenex sling, then I put the bull rope on the port-a-wrap. The angle it was lifting at dictated that we pull the line pretty tight to get enough lift. Maybe more time was involved than necessary to rig it that way, but there was no chance of failure, no chance of breaking any equipment.
It took me a whole 30 seconds to untie it all.
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