ring wear

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bandmiller

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
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Location
Franklin ma.
out of boredom I pulled parts husky 266SE apart. bought the saw cheap,very hard start little comp. Jug bore perfect no aparent wear or scores,piston very good also.Almost fudged rompers when I saw ring gap well over 1/8 inch, is that very unusual?? .006 feeler gauge tite fit piston thrust face up and down.
 
I dont think the extreme ring wear that bandmiller has would be caused by glazed rings. Dirt ingestion and many hours of run time are the likely culprits.
BTW I agree with you about break in Rocky. Two strokes need high load to seat rings.
 
That much ring gap could almost be the result of the wrong ring installed. A general rule of thumb is .003 end gap per inch of cyl. diameter on watercooled 4stroke and about .008 per inch dia. on air cooled 2 stroke. You should probably be looking at 20 thou end gap as a very max.

Frank
 
thanks for the prompt reply guys---Ben your probibly right the saw has all the earmarks of a professionally used up saw. main bearings have a little play and a little noisy when turned. Problem I dont know what is ok and what isnt.
 
Question for Bwalker:

Ben, do you think that the rings and piston, would glaze over as bad (or even at all) using the MX2T oil? Not trying to start an oil war, but had to ask. Finally found a place to ship me some MX2T, thanks to a member on this forum. What do you think, about my question? I would almost have to agree with crofter, that it sounds as if, the wrong rings were installed, at some point in time, to have that much end gap. LEWIS.
 
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Reply to Bwalker:

Hi Ben, I've seen this site before. As you say, I don't agree with all he says, but some of it is interesting. I feel that if a person brings his ssw up to operating temperature and begins break in under moderate loads and then works up to full load, the rings and the rest of the saw will be properly broken in better. Provided the proper oil mix and carburetor adjustments are maintained. If the saw is to be ran at a 50/1 mix I'd break it in at say 40/1 for the first three to four tanks fulls, working up to full loads during that time and letting off. Then going to the recomended oil mix and work up to full load for longer periods of time. Also letting the saw cool down properly and not just shutting it off ( heat cycling it). After going to the recomended oil mix, I'd be sure that the carb was properly adjusted. Even if it was on the slightly rich side. JMO. Lewis.
 
I agree with you stihltech. Along with proper oil mix, carburetor adjustments a little maintenance goes a long way. Keep the saw externally clean, clean flywheel and housing, keep the cooling fins clean and make sure the air filter is clean and properly seated in its housing. Along keeping a good sharp chain properly adutsted and oiled. Lewis.
 
dirt

We tell every customer keep it sharp which will keep it clean. A year later you have to dig out the air filter. Then they wonder why there is a problem.

Keep it sharp and keep it clean and any saw will work better and last longer.
 
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