Risky piston or not ?

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I brought a very nice danarm 110 auto to life this week. The saw had a mild scored piston and cylinder, but after some rework, the saw came back to life.
Awfull sound... .

Now my question, I intend to run this saw at an old farm equipment show in august for demo, but tbh I am a little scared to use it in the wood. Here's some pics of the piston. The rings were still in good shape and not damaged at all. The cylinder had some scoring marks too, but I have no pics.
Whadja think ?

intake side
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The arrow head shows the deepest groove.

exhaust side
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I do not see any problem not to use it, but I would make sure it does not have any piston slop in the bore and that the piston does not have any ridges that may gall to the cylinder again. I have used a lot of pistons like that with no problem.
 
As long as you get that metal off of the cylinder that used to be on that piston, and have a good set of rings, it should do fine, maybe better than you think. That actually doesn't hurt much at all. If it will run for 10 minutes without dying you can put it to work.
 
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just alittle scuffin' as long as it hasnt gouged the cylinder deep clean it and some rings your good to go:greenchainsaw:
 
The marks aren't the problem.. it's the skirt wear. You'll have a little more latitude on a reed engine, but be careful on a piston ported engine.

What is the taper? Measure the ring gap on the least worn part of the bore, and the worst.
 
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On an older engine like that youll be OK.


I would recommend a heavier mix though, 32:1 at least and run it a lil rich, it will cut fine and will be going to the show with you for years to come.


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On an older engine like that youll be OK.


I would recommend a heavier mix though, 32:1 at least and run it a lil rich, it will cut fine and will be going to the show with you for years to come.


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Thanks for the info, folks. FYI this is not a piston ported saw. I will let her eat some wood then at the show, running a little richer.

What is the taper? Measure the ring gap on the least worn part of the bore, and the worst

Lake, I already re-assembled the saw so measuring that taper will be for another time :bang: . But for future needs, what would be an acceptable taper measure ? Or is it saw size dependant ?
thanks again.
roland
 
I have used worse too. Use some1200 grit wet & dry to polish the piston and, as said, check the bore for deposits. My results have shown no issues, however the bore-piston clearance has never been an issue.
 

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