Rope Wrench

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TreEmergencyB

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Think I'm going to pull the trigger and pick it up. Never climbed on SRT before but its about time. The rope wrench srt style is most like Ddrt so I think i can get it down quickly. Anyone else out there climbing on it suggestions anyone else thinking about getting it questions. Theres a couple good videos on YouTube and i was at the Lancaster show this year so I'm hooked now.
 
i just got one and have been fooling around with diffrent ascending options and havent found a good one yet, it is very difficult to go up on. im close to giving up on it to be honest
 
Sprung22 climbs with one. He's pretty much set up like the last video. He really likes it and it seems efficient. He went up a tree in my yard in no time with little effort. Steve told me he averages 30 hours a week in the tree, mostly pruning, so that's a big toll on the body.

It's too much for me to learn and use, as I'm completely old school, but if one was doing a lot of pruning each week, it's something that needs serious consideration. I like the Ddrt traits and Steve said he works the tree completely in SRT with this system. It seems it takes a while to get the correct setup.
 

i only tried that breiftly in my yard only haveing a small climb, i havnt tried it on an actuall job yet. in my yard i can only go up about ten feet not realy enuf to see if it works, i will try it again. i did 3 trees last week and tried 3 differnt aproches on the ascend, ill i got was tired. i even made a 3to1 with an acender and a pully that i could push way up with a pole saw, i could ascnd with one hand, for a few pulls then i was beat., i do most of my long climbs with a treeacsned and 2 pantins its super fast
 
I like mine a lot. And the only way I have used it for work is just with a solo foot ascender and velocity rope. Yes, it does take some messing around with it to find the right setup.

I do wish they came with the quick release pin for mid-line attachable. Still haven't ordered my pin yet.

I wonder why it is giving you so much trouble. What hitch/tail are you using? You can also rig it up to be self-advancing pretty easily, that takes some of the hassle out of the system right there.
 
I like mine a lot. And the only way I have used it for work is just with a solo foot ascender and velocity rope. Yes, it does take some messing around with it to find the right setup.

I do wish they came with the quick release pin for mid-line attachable. Still haven't ordered my pin yet.

I wonder why it is giving you so much trouble. What hitch/tail are you using? You can also rig it up to be self-advancing pretty easily, that takes some of the hassle out of the system right there.

what ya usin for the self advancing...chest kroll, lanyard over the shoulder with swivel snap? Any vid of that set up/process in action?
 
I made one. Im sure it sets up and reacts about the same as the manufactured one. My set up works really well. I climb on blaze. I also use a black diamond vario chest harness. Ive tried a few hitches and have had the best results with a 4/1 distel on 30" beeline split tail. Using a hitchclimber pulley, i attach my main connection point to the bottom holes of the pulley, the wrench tether to the top hole and my chest harness to the center hole. It tends great and supports everything nicely. I use a pantin on my right foot for climbs below 50' and add a basic ascender walker set-up to my left leg for longer aacents. Hope this helps.
 
I like that the guy in the video said twice that there's not a lot of gear involved :msp_scared: only thing he was misssing was the chipper and truck. I guess that's stuffs cool for an old or overweight women. I go to work for the work out:lifter: old school. Not harder nor smarter just faster. Speed fallows technique but when your technique takes 10min. to set up im already pruning. Unless the trees are big.....are the trees that big?
 
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one mans opinion....

....the more you #### with the plumbing..... the easier it is to clog up the drain.....
 
I tried the wrench and didnt care for it. But I am def old school at heart so srt is unnatural to me. For acsent srt is cool but for working a tree I am just not into it. I coulda tried harder to get used to it.....but didnt want to.
 
Formation was agreeing with you Arborjockey "to much stuff clogs the drain" is what I read into it, I have read alot of your post and am very impressed with your skill and knowledge especially with high climbs and Arborculture knowledge, your opinion matters more than you think.
Paul
 
SRT is great for bigger trees. I don't get a lot of bigger trees, but when i do it's worth the switch over. All SRT systems are good, it's more a matter of which one you're proficient with. The wrench, like any system has its pros and cons.

I think most residential tree guys could benefit more from spruicing up there normal working techniques. A good foot ascender plus a slack tender takes most of the work out of ascending in the sub 80 foot range. The pantene kicks out too easy for my liking, and I'm a petzl nut from way back. I use the CMI foot ascender. It's ugly as sin and about the size of a russian tank, but it engages positively and never kicks out.

I use a small u shaped shackle plus a loop of zing it for my slack tender. I'll photograph the setup sometime this week if anyone's interested. It cost me about $6. The U shaped shackle has a captive pin so you can't drop it, and the zing it loop acts as a prussik. It's tied to the shackle in such a way that the shackle cant come off. I attach the zing it 'prussik' to the harness side of my climb line. The shackle clips on under my hitch. You can slide the prusik up or down to set it right for no set back. When you're in the tree, one of the biggest pains of a slack tender system is that you can't easily give yourself slack when you need it. The advantage of this system is that you can unclip the shackle in about 1 second.

The slack tender saves a lot of work, but the real benefit is with having it together with the foot ascender. With a normal hitch system you can only hump air equal to the distance of about one prusik loop length. ie. if your prussik loop is 18", the hitch ends up at about waist height with each 'hump' and you slide it up. You don't see guys humping to the point the hitch ends up at their knee. If you use a foot ascender without a slack tender, you can only take 'steps' equal to your hitch length. Because it's hard to slide the prusik up from your knee. With the slack tender, the hitch never drops. So you can take steps as big as you want, easily as big as two full size 'humps'. The effort is a lot less, none of it is wasted. Yeah, you're still only getting half your height out of each go, but it's so easy and smooth.

For long ascents, you can add a single ascender and footloop plus a bit of shock cord for a texas rope walked styled ascent. Coupled with the $6 slack tender it's a hard system to beat. I use it for medium trees (up to about 100' freehanging ascent). It already uses the hitch that we all know and love and is great for working the tree. The foot ascender is pretty transparent and good to have on for working the tree. I set my high point with a big shot, setup the ascender. Tie my hitch and get moving. It's pretty effortless, and you can get to 110' and not be out of breath. I say this as a big fat bastard. At that point I usually send the ascender down and the only extra bit of gear I'm carrying is the foot ascender which is good for working the tree. This is really only for pruning work, on a removal I'm going spikes all the way.

Will take pics/vids if anybody is interested.

Shaun
 
SRT is great for bigger trees. I don't get a lot of bigger trees, but when i do it's worth the switch over. All SRT systems are good, it's more a matter of which one you're proficient with. The wrench, like any system has its pros and cons.

I think most residential tree guys could benefit more from spruicing up there normal working techniques. A good foot ascender plus a slack tender takes most of the work out of ascending in the sub 80 foot range. The pantene kicks out too easy for my liking, and I'm a petzl nut from way back. I use the CMI foot ascender. It's ugly as sin and about the size of a russian tank, but it engages positively and never kicks out.

I use a small u shaped shackle plus a loop of zing it for my slack tender. I'll photograph the setup sometime this week if anyone's interested. It cost me about $6. The U shaped shackle has a captive pin so you can't drop it, and the zing it loop acts as a prussik. It's tied to the shackle in such a way that the shackle cant come off. I attach the zing it 'prussik' to the harness side of my climb line. The shackle clips on under my hitch. You can slide the prusik up or down to set it right for no set back. When you're in the tree, one of the biggest pains of a slack tender system is that you can't easily give yourself slack when you need it. The advantage of this system is that you can unclip the shackle in about 1 second.

The slack tender saves a lot of work, but the real benefit is with having it together with the foot ascender. With a normal hitch system you can only hump air equal to the distance of about one prusik loop length. ie. if your prussik loop is 18", the hitch ends up at about waist height with each 'hump' and you slide it up. You don't see guys humping to the point the hitch ends up at their knee. If you use a foot ascender without a slack tender, you can only take 'steps' equal to your hitch length. Because it's hard to slide the prusik up from your knee. With the slack tender, the hitch never drops. So you can take steps as big as you want, easily as big as two full size 'humps'. The effort is a lot less, none of it is wasted. Yeah, you're still only getting half your height out of each go, but it's so easy and smooth.

For long ascents, you can add a single ascender and footloop plus a bit of shock cord for a texas rope walked styled ascent. Coupled with the $6 slack tender it's a hard system to beat. I use it for medium trees (up to about 100' freehanging ascent). It already uses the hitch that we all know and love and is great for working the tree. The foot ascender is pretty transparent and good to have on for working the tree. I set my high point with a big shot, setup the ascender. Tie my hitch and get moving. It's pretty effortless, and you can get to 110' and not be out of breath. I say this as a big fat bastard. At that point I usually send the ascender down and the only extra bit of gear I'm carrying is the foot ascender which is good for working the tree. This is really only for pruning work, on a removal I'm going spikes all the way.

Will take pics/vids if anybody is interested.

Shaun

Different strokes for different blokes but to me the POSITIVE aspect of the Pantin is that it kicks out easily. The whole positive or improvement of this system is obviously being to able to descend on a single line. On big trees I am gonna wraptor up (another huge revelation in the biz) and easy change over.

After sending the wraptor down, Going down and back up is part of a big prune. This rw, makes it so easy...prune one side of a big tree then you still have your srt to go back up and down the other side. Whatever distance you pull your bod up you get instead of half the distance in ddrt.

The ideal situation is having 2 guys (I have even been in huge elms in Princeton NJ with 4 guys in one tree and not even get close to each other) but having a second pruner on my crew hasn't been do able for a few years. I probably did 15 to 20 $1500 or more all day one day pruning jobs last year (incl clean up) and I think I am gonna spring for one of these next week. It just makes sense.

If you are still climbing on a taught line or blakes with no hclimber/tender...you are REALLY in the stone ages. The ole put the inner side of your boot or shoe on the down part of your cl line so you can advance your hitch...so yesterday. Dangerous too, or time consuming if you lanyard in each time.
 
I wouldnt mind checking out any photos or video you wanna share.


YouTube has all you need. Anything Kevin Bingham has put up is spot on. I use a frog system for ascent and leave my left hand ascender on the line for limb walking, clip a dmm pulley onto it and you can easily pull yourself back into the trunk when done, as long as you clip the tail end of the rope to your saddle. I have been using your RW almost exclusively since I bought it except for a few removals. SRT is the future once you get used to it. So much easier on the body. I have even ascended SRT and switched over to Ddrt once I am where I want to be. It is fast. The only thing that sketches me out is the basal tie off. Too easy to cut your lifeline if your not paying attention. I have been sending up a running bolen as aTIP, once there you are set to work.
You should go to a local TCC and check out some of the systems the other guys use.
 
Formation was agreeing with you Arborjockey "to much stuff clogs the drain" is what I read into it, I have read alot of your post and am very impressed with your skill and knowledge especially with high climbs and Arborculture knowledge, your opinion matters more than you think.
Paul

:msp_tongue: Oops my bad. Sorry formation. I wish more people that sit idle and read would post more. I love to hear other opinions even if I don't agree. I dig a new thing. The industry sat idle with the taunt line then blakes hitch for 50 years. Now its exploding. The newer mochiaco?? Whatever it is. Sucks. To sticky.

Remember I get out of the truck, throw my saddle on, grab my rope, and climb right to the top of the tree. While most guys are trying to fly a kite with the throw ball. Then they're looking for a certain do hickey. Now the their in the tree but have to tie in and get rid of the crap they drug up. My old boss was older school then me and still shamed the young guys. I do understand smarter not harder. It cuts down on the injuries as well as saves tou some energy for maintenance after work:smile2:
 

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