Ryobi Muffler Question?

[WelderShane]

Is this a ''cat'' mesh type material for emissions? The reason I say ''Cat'' is because its stamped on the side. Would it be ok to remove this from the muffler. It still has the spark arrestor screen and end cap. I was thinking of removing it to make it run better. Would it be too open if I remove it? It doesn't look like there are any baffles or such in the muffler just that mesh wire and the spark arrestor screen and the end cap. It always ran like it was restricted. I will re adjust the carb once its removed. Is it a good idea to remove it.
Thanks

 

[redoakman]

cut her out of there .yes its a good idea to get that mesh out . the screen can stay if u would like but can go to

 

[jughead500]

Rip it out just retune your carb.

 

[edward.tatham.9]

If there is no baffle, I wouldn't remove it. You'll never get it to run right.

 

[Roll Tide]

That last comment was very untrue. Yank it out and retune your carb.

 

[edward.tatham.9]

Best of luck.

 

[Roll Tide]

Best of luck.

As long as he richens up the carb the saw will run much better, and cooler with a muffler mod. People have modding mufflers for a very long time.

 

[edward.tatham.9]

I have a Ryobi saw it had the cat mesh and an internal baffle. I removed the mash and drilled a fairly large hole through the baffle. The saw ran fine before but after it would kick back to the point it damaged the starter. Yes I did richen it up. In general it just wouldn't run right. I ended up welding the hole up on the baffle and opening up where the exhaust comes out. I think air gets sucked back in and leans put the mixture. I'm just concerned that of he really doesn't have a baffle, as he states, and he removes the mesh he's going to have a problem. My engine has stratified charge. Maybe that makes a difference.

 

[Roll Tide]

If tuned correctly the saw will run much stronger, and much cooler. The key is tuning correctly.

 

[Roll Tide]

I have a Ryobi saw it had the cat mesh and an internal baffle. I removed the mash and drilled a fairly large hole through the baffle. The saw ran fine before but after it would kick back to the point it damaged the starter. Yes I did richen it up. In general it just wouldn't run right. I ended up welding the hole up on the baffle and opening up where the exhaust comes out. I think air gets sucked back in and leans put the mixture. I'm just concerned that of he really doesn't have a baffle, as he states, and he removes the mesh he's going to have a problem. My engine has stratified charge. Maybe that makes a difference.

My saws all have completly gutted mufflers.

 

[Chris-PA]

I have a Ryobi saw it had the cat mesh and an internal baffle. I removed the mash and drilled a fairly large hole through the baffle. The saw ran fine before but after it would kick back to the point it damaged the starter. Yes I did richen it up. In general it just wouldn't run right. I ended up welding the hole up on the baffle and opening up where the exhaust comes out. I think air gets sucked back in and leans put the mixture. I'm just concerned that of he really doesn't have a baffle, as he states, and he removes the mesh he's going to have a problem. My engine has stratified charge. Maybe that makes a difference.

The only Ryobi-branded saw that was strato was their version of the the Zenoah GZ400 - but it does not have a cat or mesh, just a baffle. I have one and it is muffler modded, and runs great. The other Ryobi saws are re-badged Homelites, and are not strato.

If you do a successful muffler mod and increase the air velocity through the carb, the mixture will get richer, not leaner. If you open it up so much that it pulls extra oxygen in through the exhaust port then you will need to enrich the mixture - but that is not a problem to do. Many early saws had no muffler at all. All my saws have modded mufflers, most not so extreme but a few are quite open.

 

[edward.tatham.9]

Ok

 

[67L36Driver]

You can overdo a muff mod. Go too far and the A/F mix is diluted by air at the exhaust port.

I had Homie XL-101 type that wouldn't even pop without a muffler. Installed the muffler and it started/ran fine.

 

[67L36Driver]

The only Ryobi-branded saw that was strato was their version of the the Zenoah GZ400 - but it does not have a cat or mesh, just a baffle. I have one and it is muffler modded, and runs great. The other Ryobi saws are re-badged Homelites, and are not strato.

If you do a successful muffler mod and increase the air velocity through the carb, the mixture will get richer, not leaner. If you open it up so much that it pulls extra oxygen in through the exhaust port then you will need to enrich the mixture - but that is not a problem to do. Many early saws had no muffler at all. All my saws have modded mufflers, most not so extreme but a few are quite open.

Deflector top piston?

 

[Chris-PA]

Deflector top piston?

Ok, you lost me!

 

[67L36Driver]

Ok, you lost me!

The really old Devils with drilled transfer ports in the cylinder walls have a projection on the top of the piston to guide the incoming A/F charge up to the top of the cylinder. Most times you can see into the cylinder while they are running. The Remington/Mall Logmaster is an example.

This mono is another. The muffler was nothing but a short 'spout'.


Makes a heckofa leaf blower with the exhaust.