Sap / Buildup On Top Plate Of Cutters?

[SteveSr]

Hello,

I recently spent a couple of days cutting and noticed (on both saws) that the tops of the cutters collected some crud that appears to consist of sap and sawdust. I was cutting mostly dead/dying ash and honey locust with a little bit of maple and hawthorn thrown in when it got in the way.

When I brushed off the crud with a brass wire brush the cutters still looked pretty sharp i.e. no visible damage from hitting the dirt or a rock. So is this a characteristic of the species cut or is it my sharpening technique?

Chain is Stihl RMC. Before the outing both chains were sharpened with the file and guide in the Stihl "orange wrap" filing kit.

 

[Ronaldo]

Completely normal. If you think about it, you are sharpening at the cutters highest point. The top of the cutter drops off behind that point. You'll get crud on there.

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[scottr]

I have a old weather beaten dry eastern red cedar log that would blast that off with a few cuts .
Scott

 

[SteveSr]

I have a old weather beaten dry eastern red cedar log that would blast that off with a few cuts .
Scott

Thanks for the tip. I actually have some old, dry sweet gum and if that doesn't work some dry red oak. Beats cleaning each tooth with a brass brush!

 

[Wood Doctor]

I remove that build-up whenever I sharpen the blade by using a rotating wire brush on my drill press. Just make sure the cutting edge trails opposite the rotation direction. It will take it off in a jiffy using several passes, about 10 cutters to the pass. Sometimes I even take it off the sides of the cutter. Customers like this.

 

[huskihl]

A little more oil out put either flushes the crud off or maybe cools the chain down enough to where that stuff doesn’t burn onto the top of the cutters. I can always tell when an oiler isn’t set up properly by how dirty the chain is

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I have a brass brush on my bench grinder, after cutting or if a customers saw has that hard crust built up...i quickly run it across the wheel, especially after grinding..leaves a burr free cutter. I just make sure the cutting side faces down. If i get a really nasty chain, like...just a gross half rusted stiff chain that is still in good shape as far as lifespan, i strip it. Soak in gas for 30 minutes, then air dry, run the chain across the wheel on both sides and the cutters, then soak 6 hours in evaporust...then i heat it some and soak in fresh motor oil. Ends up being a very smooth, very clean chain..albeit devoid of any anti corrosion coatings if there were ever any. It only takes about 10 minutes..and i usually only bother on a 20+ inch 3/8 chain.

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[Bwildered]

To get rid of the buildup, just use the tip of the saw and cut a couple of long rips down a live smooth barked sapling, instant cleaned chain. It's an old log fallers trick.

 

[U&A]

No big deal. It will come off with use.

Or soak the chain in somthing like simple green if you want. I do this from time to time but its not really necessary.

Oil is your chains friend, is your oiler set on the highest setting?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[SteveSr]

Or soak the chain in something like simple green if you want. I do this from time to time but its not really necessary.

Simple Green seems to work well on really burned on sap/gunk. I once hit a nail while taking down a hickory tree in my yard and didn't realize it until later. That hickory sap was really burned on. Wire brush wouldn't touch it. Simple Green and some heat from the stove and that chain really sparkled! In this most recent case the cutters don't appear to be damaged.

Oil is your chains friend, is your oiler set on the highest setting?

This was on 2 different saws. An 025 with a 16" bar and an 026 with a 16" bar. Same issues with both chains. The oiler on the 025 is fixed and on the 026 was turned up to 3/4.

 

[Huntaholic]

Its the wood youre cutting, nothing to worry about or even bother with trying to clean up. It will clean itself up when you cut something else.