Saw chain

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undercut

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What is your favorite chain. semi, round, square, ect.

I just ordered some chain for the 3120 and it has got me thinking. I think i want to change the drive and tip sprocket from .404 to a 3/8 pitch. I think i also want to change the bar to a 058 gauge instead of the 063 I got with it. I always use round chisel non skip tooth chain except when I got a deal on some square ground chain that actually worked out all right. I am wondering what you think works the best in general, what you have tried. What size bars/ saws and chain(s) you like. I got a 36 inch bar on my 395 and run 72lg round chisel non skip and it works fine. I think i would rather have my cutters non skip or skip versus semi skip. I have been toying with the idea of putting a smaller bar than stock (one size down) on every saw i own. I seem to have bigger bars on everything right now. Like on my 372 i have 28 instead of the 24. It still seems to rip even fully packed with cutters but i was wondering if i run a 20 if it will cut even better or maybe it would just be less efficient not using all the saws power to the max? I was really thinking it will feel better going to the 058 gauge on the 3120, 063 seems unnecessarily big and if i want to make chains for the big saws it will all be the same. I know millers like to go smaller for the more narrow kerf so i figured for cutting the big logs and flushing large stumps it would be fine, pretty much all i do with this saw.
any ways thanks for any opinions of best chain set up and comments on this topic.
 
I run 372 and 390 w/ 22" bars and full skip chain, I like square, but have not mastered file technique, so I just round file w/ sweedish roller. All my saws are set up for 3/8 .050 except my climbing saws. So I buy chain 100' at a time. Currently running Stihl chain ( i like it) I am an Oregon fan, however they came out with the new crap with the round bottoms (totally clogs the bar up) and the left hand cutters are longer than the right (can't even fit the file in between the cutter and the raker (terrible engineering) but brand new it does cut better like they claim.
I do not care for the semi skip, after a few cuts it seems to get out of whack. The tip of my bar is stuffed in hard wood 99% of the day so I like it to be smooth. I rarely have used a 24" bar and have found 20" the best all around, but w/ h.d. dawgs the 22" works out to be a 20"
 
New Oregon chains. LPX

Good time to switch to 73LG round chisel .058. The last I checked Bailey's had some 100-ft reels left at $199.00. Older style without the rounded drive on every other link.
 
new oregon chain

I am not sure if i like the new oregon chain with the round things between the drivers. I have been using it but i really don't notice an improvement anyone like the new chain? I think all that added metal adds weight and drag.
 
I've always been pleased with Oregon chain. We buy .050 gauge 72LG 100' at a time and run it on everything from 20" to 34" bars. I have to admit that I'm fond of the "witness mark" feature during quick down and dirty filing on a stump or tailgate. Climbing saw has Oregon .050 91VS on a 16" bar, happy with that combo too. I'm not a big fan of messing with stuff that works so I haven't experimented too much.

:cheers:

Oh yeah, it's all 3/8 pitch.
 
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I run Stihl chain exclusively. It has a higher chrome content than all other chains. This means it keeps its edge longer, but is also harder to sharpen.

As for pitch I feel .058 is a bastard size. There is limited availability for it from Stihl, and when you get into skip, semi skip, etc etc versions it gets hard to find from certain manufacturers.

I run .050on all saws under 100cc. I run full round chisel up to 20". Full round chisel Full Skip 24" and up. Semi chisel on the climbing saws, and pole saws. Full Square chisel for the play/race chains. I only run .063 on sas bigger than 100cc.

The Huskys run .058 because thats what the co. orders them with and its easier than switching them out. We've been running this set-up for years.
 
I am not sure if i like the new oregon chain with the round things between the drivers. I have been using it but i really don't notice an improvement anyone like the new chain? I think all that added metal adds weight and drag.

I like the old designs much better....
 
I tried a roll of the Bailey's chain, and I liked it, super sharp brand new, however it seemed once I started filing I just couldn't file it enuff. Just wouldn't hold an edge for me. ( hard wood of coarse )
 
I am not sure if i like the new oregon chain with the round things between the drivers. I have been using it but i really don't notice an improvement anyone like the new chain? I think all that added metal adds weight and drag.

Are you talking about their new safety chain?
 
a local shop said....

A local shop told me switching from 063 .404 to 058 guage and 3/8 pitch i would break more chains on the 3120. Any one agree with this? I have run 058 3/8 on my 395 for so long with no issues and that saw pulls. I really don't trust the info from this shop anyway if you know anything about this say something here. thanks...

ohh yeah i never broke a chain period yet.
 
A local shop told me switching from 063 .404 to 058 guage and 3/8 pitch i would break more chains on the 3120. Any one agree with this? I have run 058 3/8 on my 395 for so long with no issues and that saw pulls. I really don't trust the info from this shop anyway if you know anything about this say something here. thanks...

ohh yeah i never broke a chain period yet.

I have broken a chain or two.

I wouldnt switch to .058 3/8", if your going to switch I would run .063.

And comparing the pull of a 395 and a 3120 is not even in the same Genre of saws. Its like comparing a 346 to a 372.
 
Are you talking about their new safety chain?

No, It is not safety chain it is called stable-link i guess it adds less drag. I just can't see the difference but maybe it's better. I think the new change just threw me for a loop. I guess it just looks funny to me.
i still want more comments on this stuff what is the real advantage and why?

The new LGX series saw chain features advanced grind geometry providing faster cutting speed right out of the box! The new grind also dramatically improves chain efficiency in all cutting modes, resulting in lower operator feed force. New revolutionary *StabL-Link™ drive links are also featured on this saw chain. These drive links significantly improve performance, increase cut precision and, extend system life. In addition, new blued cutters offer superior corrosion resistance, base-cutter hardness consistency and, a new "Pro" look.
 
pull

the 3120 is more torque and not as high rev as a 395. It is not like i am trying to compare apples to oranges. I know guys like 58 gauge for milling on 3120's I am sure if they are snapping chains all the time they wouldn't like it so much. I am allready running 063 404.
 
Are you milling or cutting trees?

If your cutting trees you run the risk of hitting something; metal, rocks, concrete, etc etcin the tree. All that extra power, and the chain suddenly stopping is a sure fire way to snap a chain.
 
milling cutting

i am cutting. recently i have been thinking about trying out some slabbing i have two ripping chains all ready. I ripped some nice boards free hand just for fun. Not that straight but i did ok. I was thinking about getting some rails and an alaskan style mill. I know what you mean about hitting some crap in the wood. I just have this funny feeling that i would like some oregon chisel full 3/8 on a 058. I guess i will never be satisfied untill i try it. I was even thinking about skip just to keep the revs up and with a 44 inch bar lots of room to pull the chips out. maybe i should switch to.050 1/4 pitch .. ;)
 
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