Saw Chains

[Mike Mulback]

Purchased a used Craftsman 50 cc 20". Uses 70DL chains Been looking at getting a couple extras and wondering what differences full chisel ect. Maybe faster cutting with more kickback ect.
I know this pry has been asked hundreds of times...

 

[zogger]

full chisel will cut better in clean wood. Looks like a number 7 on end. Semi chisel is bertter for dirtier wood, it looks like a question mark ? on end. Safety chain has additional bumpers by the depth gauge, these make the very tip not grab much at all if being stuck into something like for a bore cut or accidentally hitting something on the other side of the log. They are also harder to adjust for depth by filing as there is a lot more to file, but for normal bucking cuts they are fine. Non safety "pro" chain has nothing but a cutter and depth gauge in front of it. They typically have one colored yellow link on them, safety will have green.

Full chisel can be round ground or square, round (which is far and away what you will see in most stores and shops and on most saws) uses a normal round file for the cutters (depth gauges use a flat file), the square needs a "goofy" file or similar, and is sharpened from the outside to in, not like a round file where it is inside to out. Square ground full chisel is usually the fastest in clean wood and for cant racing, etc.

 

[TedyOH]

If you're looking for faster cutting get a full skip chain, although on a 20' bar I don't think you'll notice much difference in speed.

 

[svk]

Skip is actually slower cutting....

 

[unclemoustache]

Skip is actually slower cutting....

 

[unclemoustache]

Safety chain (what you normally get at all hardware stores) - dullest, but lasts longest - safest, too.

Semi-chisel (can get this at saw-shops or online) - very sharp, lasts fairly long, kickback danger.

Full-chisel (can get this at saw-shops on online) - sharpest, dulls quicker, higher kickback danger.



I usually go with semi-chisel. It's a good mid-range chain that doesn't dull too quickly, and I sometimes have to deal with dirty wood. Baileys is a good place (see link above). Some guys around here will make loops for you as well, and charge you about the same (or a bit less) than Baileys.

 

[svk]

No pissing here!

 

[TedyOH]

Skip is actually slower cutting....

Skip cuts less but that doesn't mean slower....not on my saw and 36" bar anyways......on the 21" bar I see no difference in speed (I think I drank too much water today!)

 

[amberg]

We like semi-chisel with all the mud and rocks we have here. As we usually drag them through a creek or through the mud.

 

[Philbert]

There are lots of variations in chain, and lots of opinions about how important those differences are. Some of it depends on how or what you cut, if you sharpen your own chains, etc. A lot of personal choice.

70 DL on a 20" bar sounds like you are running 3/8" pitch chain? I hope that that is 3/8 low profile chain, because full sized 3/8 pitch chain would be quite a load for a 50cc saw. STIHL PS3 is the only source of full chisel, 3/8" low-profile ('Picco') that I know of.

The biggest advantage you will get is keeping your chain sharp - whatever type you use. The only way to know what type of chain works best for you, is to try a few different loops. Get a full-chisel loop, a semi-chisel, maybe try a different brand than you use now (STIHL, Oregon, Carlton, etc.). Try them side-by-side in the same wood, on the same day for a good comparison. You may find that one type works better for limbing, another for bucking, for use in hardwoods versus softwoods, etc. You can also see which hold up for you in your cutting, and see if it makes a difference for you.

I can feel usually a difference when comparing chains side-by-side, but am usually happy with sharp, semi-chisel, low-kickback chain for all- around general use (firewood cutting and storm clean up).

Philbert

 

[svk]

There are lots of variations in chain, and lots of opinions about how important those differences are. Some of it depends on how or what you cut, if you sharpen your own chains, etc. A lot of personal choice.

70 DL on a 20" bar sounds like you are running 3/8" pitch chain? I hope that that is 3/8 low profile chain, because full sized 3/8 pitch chain would be quite a load for a 50cc saw. STIHL PS3 is the only source of full chisel, 3/8" low-profile ('Picco') that I know of.

The biggest advantage you will get is keeping your chain sharp - whatever type you use. The only way to know what type of chain works best for you, is to try a few different loops. Get a full-chisel loop, a semi-chisel, maybe try a different brand than you use now (STIHL, Oregon, Carlton, etc.). Try them side-by-side in the same wood, on the same day for a good comparison. You may find that one type works better for limbing, another for bucking, for use in hardwoods versus softwoods, etc. You can also see which hold up for you in your cutting, and see if it makes a difference for you.

I can feel usually a difference when comparing chains side-by-side, but am usually happy with sharp, semi-chisel, low-kickback chain for all- around general use (firewood cutting and storm clean up).

Philbert

He's got a rebranded poulan with the oddball 70 dl 20" bar, no?

 

[JeffGu]

On big wood, with long bars, full skip will usually cut faster because there is less drag and much better chip clearing, hence higher rpm. On a short bar, with a strong saw, it will often cut slower (the engine can easily pull a full complement chain with more cutters at high rpm, so the advantages of the full skip go away). So, you're both right. No pissing required!

Yes, there is that other advantage to full skip... fewer cutters to sharpen! But, that's really only a problem with long bars, too. Besides, sharpening saw chains is more fun than... umm... hmmm. Oh, yeah! It's more fun than dipping your bleeding 'roids in battery acid!

 

[JeffGu]

Does anyone actually make a full skip chain in Picco/LoPro? I can't remember ever seeing one. I guess you could put one together... but I don't see the point.

 

[svk]

Does anyone actually make a full skip chain in Picco/LoPro? I can't remember ever seeing one. I guess you could put one together... but I don't see the point.

Yes they do or at least did. I saw a pic of a little M36 Johnny with a 16" bar and a loop of skip. But I've never seen it for sale anywhere.

 

[Philbert]

Does anyone actually make a full skip chain in Picco/LoPro?

Look at cheap saws at big box stores. They often put oversized bars on these saws to make them look more powerful, then have to balance that with skip chain.

Philbert

 

[Mike Mulback]

Thanks for all the replies, its a re-branded poulan pro, starts up faster then my neighbors brand new one, seems to have plenty of power