Saw for stump grinders

[Jimma]

I made a post on the saw and tree guys board and got a lot of good responses. But then thought I would post it here on a board with a lot of stump grinders and see if I could get some responses. I grind stumps and have to cut a lot of them down before grinding them. Anyway, I have ruined several saws over the last few years and am in need of another now. I 've ruined a couple of Husqvarna 455's and a makita 6401. Probably the wrong type of saws for stumps but I don't have a clue. Anybody have a saw that works well for stump work or any suggestions before I go and waste my money on the wrong saw for what I need?

 

[MOE]

It really depends on where you are and what kinds of trees you deal with. If you are in pines and popples that rarely get beyond 24" just about anything will work. I end up cutting off 6'+ cotton woods every year so I have one with a 42" bar. I do 90% of my stumps with a stihl 064 with a 28" bar. Of the two you mentioned, I'd go for the makita 6400, it should pull a 24" very well. As to why they are burning up on you, I don't know. Keep a sharp chain,(as best you can for stump) and don't force them. I tend to run them a bit on the rich side because the cuts are usually longer and harder for the saw than cutting firewood. They heat up. Running them a tad rich will keep them a bit cooler. Keep your air filters clean, that will make them run cooler as well. When you are working them, if the chain is stalling out a lot, you're pushing them too hard, it's hard on clutches. I take my rakers down to about .035" so I don't have to force the saw too much.

 

[OLD MAN GRINDER]

I use a stihl 660 with a 32 inch bar for the big stuff and a ms310 with a 20 inch bar for anything under 24 inches....i do a lot of gums and large oaks etc, stumps 40 inches accross not including root flare are not unsual for me, did a 54 inch pine the other day, i may go to a 36 inch bar next year if i can afford it...

To sum it up, big saw, big bar.....the bigger the better imo...

Bob.....

 

[MSgtBob66]

I use the MS290 Farm Boss right now, it's good for my needs. 18" bar and sharp chains.

Good Luck!

BOB

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

MS460 mag...chose the bar that fits the stumps you grind.

 

[Jimma]

Bar Size?

I have been useing a 20" bar for the last few years because I just don't know any better. But after reading all the chainsaw posts, I guess I should use a bar that exceeds the size of the stumps. I usually start on one side and run the bar in as deep as it will go and go around to meet the other side. Maybe thats why I'm so tough on saws, and chains.

 

[cfield]

I made a post on the saw and tree guys board and got a lot of good responses. But then thought I would post it here on a board with a lot of stump grinders and see if I could get some responses. I grind stumps and have to cut a lot of them down before grinding them. Anyway, I have ruined several saws over the last few years and am in need of another now. I 've ruined a couple of Husqvarna 455's and a makita 6401. Probably the wrong type of saws for stumps but I don't have a clue. Anybody have a saw that works well for stump work or any suggestions before I go and waste my money on the wrong saw for what I need?

I've never run a makita but as for the rancher that may be why your burning them out. Try a professional grade saw thats designed more for that kind of constant abuse. Big stump = Big saw, but they all meet there match eventually. We did 3 red oak stumps on wednesday that we took down monday, all were over 40" across and even my 395 w/ 36" bar didnt like them much. But I wouldnt have wanted to attempt to stump them with anything smaller!

 

[GarethVW]

I don't think that the size bar matters as much as the size saw. The smaller the bar the cheaper they are to replace and chains are cheaper. I would say if you had a Stihl ms460 it would last you many years. It is a professional quality saw that is designed to take day in day out hard use and it is big enough to run up to a 32' bar. I would have a 24 and a 32 inch bar and use the one you need. Here is a question for you, do you use skip tooth so it is easier to sharpen? Or do you use semi chisel chain so it holds up to dirt better?

 

[Tundra Man Mike]

I use a 362XP 24" Bar and 550XP running 24" 3/8th Bar. 460 Rancher for backup and nasty cuts that I don't want to use my good saws for. I'm only in it $78.

 

[Jimma]

I don't think that the size bar matters as much as the size saw. The smaller the bar the cheaper they are to replace and chains are cheaper. I would say if you had a Stihl ms460 it would last you many years. It is a professional quality saw that is designed to take day in day out hard use and it is big enough to run up to a 32' bar. I would have a 24 and a 32 inch bar and use the one you need. Here is a question for you, do you use skip tooth so it is easier to sharpen? Or do you use semi chisel chain so it holds up to dirt better?

I Use a semi chisel chain. What's the best brand and best type of chain? I don't normally cut much clean wood, just stumps.

 

[Jimma]

So after listening to all the replies and doing a little, not as much as I should, research, I guess I'll get the Ms461 magnum with a 24" bar in the next couple of days. thanks for all the help. Still have a coule of days if someone has an epiphany.

 

[GarethVW]

.

If I understand right there are only like 3 chain manufactures Stihl, Oregon, and one other? I am not totally sure. I use Stihl and Oregon chain and don't really notice any difference. I like Stihl bars and run them up to 24'. My 32' bar is Oregon because it was cheaper, again I don't really notice any difference. There are bars that are much more expensive and claim to last a lot longer but I am skeptical. In my experience the most common reasons for a bar to be destroyed are, overheating because of a dull or improperly sharpened chain, or bending it so it won't cut straight and binds in the stump.

 

[B Harrison]

If your just running through stumps a semi chisel chain of the cheaper kind is what to get. The drags will be the key and if you have time touch them up every day, it will save you time in the long run. Buy 2 extra chains and this will keep you in production when you run into nasty stump or if you hit a bit of metal or rock, which you will in stumps. You may also look into carbide chain and see what you think, its not all that fast, but will handle rocks and nails well.

If you are getting a 460 it might come with a 20 or a 25" bar, if it comes with a 20, buy yourself a 28 to have if you need the extra length and get a couple loops of skip tooth chain for that.
Another thing you might do is after every stump that's not really clean, pull the clutch cover off and take a stiff brush to the clutch making sure any dirt or debris is clear. It will take you about 2 minutes and save you some trouble and money in the long run. Any mud that gets in there from rotten water logged stump needs to be cleaned well as it will wear that clutch out quickly and cause you to break or wear out rim sprockets too.

I clean this area every time I use a saw for any length of time.

 

[fatheadon1]

i am in the same boat as you looking for a saw to cut just stumps i have my mind made up on a 441cm because from what i read its more efficient on fuel has better anti vibe and last and most important to me is the 441cm air cleaner is leaps and bounds better then a 461. take all this with a grain of salt as its all just info i have read but iv run a 461 and its one heck of a saw but the air cleaner needs constant attention for the saw to run its best. either way good luck with whatever you buy

 

[tidy]

I use a 460 for most of my stumps, was considering getting a 28inch bar but have gone and ordered a 660 instead, didnt plan on spending the money but it seems to make sense, right tool right job etc

 

[OLD MAN GRINDER]

I use a 460 for most of my stumps, was considering getting a 28inch bar but have gone and ordered a 660 instead, didnt plan on spending the money but it seems to make sense, right tool right job etc

Good choice, u won't be sorry....

Bob...

 

[Mowingman]

I don't carry a saw with my stump grinder. I do not cut off stumps, that is not a service I offer. I tell the homeowner how far it needs to be cut down. They can find a way to get it done, or I can send a tree trimming buddy of mine to do it. If my friend does the work, I just add his charge to my stumpgrinding bill. He will whack off most any stump for a $50.00 service fee.
Since I cut my kneecap with a chainsaw 20 years ago, I just do not like to use chainsaws anymore.
Jeff

 

[SecondGenMonkey]

I'm assuming you weren't stumping when you did that. I can't think of how it would be possible.

sent using logic and reason from a device forged of witchcraft.

 

[Topbuilder]

I carry a saw with me. I would lose too much work without it. Oh, the customer will usually tell they will have it taken care of before I get there... they usually have some el cheapo saw with a 16" bar and a never sharpened chain... I just price it in. I'm not real knowlegeable when it comes to saws. I run a 455 rancher and recently upgraded to one of the more expensive Oregon power Match bars with a 72lgxo72g loop. The first stump I did was a 32" hardwood. About 1/2 way into it I was sure it was going to be hollow when I pushed the cut off the stump. It was solid. I have never had a bar/loop combo cut like that on that saw. I've had the saw over 5 years. I only run a 20" bar. I have a couple of jobs I walked from that were hardwoods over 5' across. Just not enough to justify a bigger saw for me. The company I go behind cuts their stumps almost a ground level. Even when I cut them I don't go that far in the dirt. I just get what I can get and grind on. When I burn this Rancher out I will upgrade to Stihl with a 24" bar. I have so many dead trees of my own where a 24" would help me drop them easier.

 

[OLD MAN GRINDER]

I carry a saw with me. I would lose too much work without it. Oh, the customer will usually tell they will have it taken care of before I get there... they usually have some el cheapo saw with a 16" bar and a never sharpened chain... I just price it in. I'm not real knowlegeable when it comes to saws. I run a 455 rancher and recently upgraded to one of the more expensive Oregon power Match bars with a 72lgxo72g loop. The first stump I did was a 32" hardwood. About 1/2 way into it I was sure it was going to be hollow when I pushed the cut off the stump. It was solid. I have never had a bar/loop combo cut like that on that saw. I've had the saw over 5 years. I only run a 20" bar. I have a couple of jobs I walked from that were hardwoods over 5' across. Just not enough to justify a bigger saw for me. The company I go behind cuts their stumps almost a ground level. Even when I cut them I don't go that far in the dirt. I just get what I can get and grind on. When I burn this Rancher out I will upgrade to Stihl with a 24" bar. I have so many dead trees of my own where a 24" would help me drop them easier.

Same here, i would lose a lot of bus if i did not have my big saw, even the tree services i work for don't cut
them low like they do on the big bad wood show on tv, i am not going to walk away from any job because the
stump is high, and paying anybody to come out and cut it down is out of the question, there is just not
enough money in grinding and the customer would not pay an extra 50 bucks to have it cut down...

Maybe up north where they get a lot more for grinding that would work but not down here with guys
doing stumps for 10 bucks each, with bus the way it is down here i'll take all the stumps i can get, did
28 the other day and had to cut 10 of them down lower, pretty big ones, just put the cost in the bid...


Bob.....