Screamers

[Tom Dunlap]

The thread on small tie ins got me wondering.

Has anyone ever considered, or used, a Screamer to reduce the potential load on a marginal tie in?

Take a look: http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/screamer/index.htm

Yates makes Screamers large enough to use as tie downs for testing space shuttle engines. They're pretty standard fare for rock climbers might be a good tool for arbos who are working out on the edge of the limits.

Tom

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Where would you put one in your tie-in? I use a daisey chain for SRT/DRT. It can perform similarly, but is rather long.

I could see that incorporated in something like the LJ.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

A Screamer could be installed on either leg of a false crotch. But...this wouldn't reduce the impact load as well as if a sling was choked for an anchor and a Screamer attached to the end with a FC hanging on the end of the Screamer.

The point where the climber's rope doubles itself is where the highest load will be generated. Putting a Screamer in the climbing system and not the anchor system reduces the effectivness.

Tom

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

So what would be the next evolution, tear away FC straps?

 

[Rob Murphy]

With the AFC (adjustable false crotch) wouldn't the adjusting knot tend to slip under shock load??
Could some reaserch into the type off knot used here be off benefit??