Setting a pull line from the ground-

[Marc]

Before anyone asks, I did use Search and couldn't find an answer to my question-

I'm just cutting some trees for firewood, mostly on farm fence lines. No power lines, houses or any hazards like that, but I want to make sure I get the tree where I want it to avoid a hang up.

I should mention these are all typical S. NE hardwoods, a lot of maple, plus oak, hickory and ash. A lot of them would not be able to get enough lift even with two stacked wedges. What I'd like to start doing on them is get them notched, back cut with a wedge in place and then yank the center of gravity with the pull line past the stump so they fall where I want them.

My question is in setting the pull line. I'll be using a 5/8" kern mantle bull rope with a nylon braided jacket. I've never used a throw weight/line so first- any tips there?

Second part of the question is, my plan to get the pull line choked around the tree is to either use my steel carabiner or something like a running bowline, but I can't figure anyway to do it without pulling the length of rope equal to the height of the crotch I'm using twice through. I'm just concerned about the wear on the bull rope.

In other words, get the throw line up and back down, tie the bull rope to the end of the throw line, pull it back so I've got a bite with the bull rope around the tree crotch, tie in the biner or other slip knot of choice and then pull the working end until choked around the tree. Is this the way it's typically done? Is there a way to reduce the frictional wear on the rope?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[TreeBot]

My question is in setting the pull line. I'll be using a 5/8" kern mantle bull rope with a nylon braided jacket. I've never used a throw weight/line so first- any tips there?

You could buy a "big shot" line setting sling shot or make something similar. Other methods include bow and arrow plus fishing line.

Second part of the question is, my plan to get the pull line choked around the tree is to either use my steel carabiner or something like a running bowline, but I can't figure anyway to do it without pulling the length of rope equal to the height of the crotch I'm using twice through. I'm just concerned about the wear on the bull rope.

In other words, get the throw line up and back down, tie the bull rope to the end of the throw line, pull it back so I've got a bite with the bull rope around the tree crotch, tie in the biner or other slip knot of choice and then pull the working end until choked around the tree. Is this the way it's typically done? Is there a way to reduce the frictional wear on the rope?

Yes that's the way it's typically done, if I am understanding you correctly. If you are just pulling it through by hand, or even gently with a tractor, I wouldn't worry about wear on the rope, that rope can handle it.

 

[Marc]

You could buy a "big shot" line setting sling shot or make something similar. Other methods include bow and arrow plus fishing line.



Yes that's the way it's typically done, if I am understanding you correctly. If you are just pulling it through by hand, or even gently with a tractor, I wouldn't worry about wear on the rope, that rope can handle it.

Yeah, sorry, I'm bad with words. I'll just be pulling the knot through by hand. Probably pulling the tree with a tractor if it's going towards the field or a come along if there's a handy anchor somewhere.

 

[Lawnmowerboy48]

Throw line and throw ball will work. When pulling the line up into the tree you can tie a running bowline around the throw line and that will run up the rope when it comes around. You can also pull the rope over a branch and run it back to the ground and tie it off on the tree a couple of feet up.

 

[ClimbinArbor]

i use running bowline. that rope is a champ. big shot is nice too. and youd be surprised what a good set of wedges will do.

 

[appalachianarbo]

You can also pull the rope over a branch and run it back to the ground and tie it off on the tree a couple of feet up.

That's the way I do it most times. That way, the knot can be untied easily, instead of trying to find it under the pile of limbs on the ground. Also, if anything goes wrong or needs to be changed before the pull, you can easily remove the rope. Once you tighten up on the running bowline, it's up there until the tree comes down or you go up and get it.

Also, a running bowline only works if you isolate the branch with the throwline pretty well. If not, you end up trapping a whole bunch of branches inside the loop after you pull it up into the tree. When you apply pulling forces, you may snap some of the branches inside the loop, and you end up with a lot of slack in the line that needs to be taken up quickly. This can be disastrous if the tree has any kind of back lean, etc.

 

[Marc]

That's the way I do it most times. That way, the knot can be untied easily, instead of trying to find it under the pile of limbs on the ground. Also, if anything goes wrong or needs to be changed before the pull, you can easily remove the rope. Once you tighten up on the running bowline, it's up there until the tree comes down or you go up and get it.

Also, a running bowline only works if you isolate the branch with the throwline pretty well. If not, you end up trapping a whole bunch of branches inside the loop after you pull it up into the tree. When you apply pulling forces, you may snap some of the branches inside the loop, and you end up with a lot of slack in the line that needs to be taken up quickly. This can be disastrous if the tree has any kind of back lean, etc.

Have you had any problems with the tree twisting in the wrong direction with this method?

 

[Dadatwins]

I would not worry about damaging the rope from friction running it through the crotches to set up the pull line. More damage comes from stretching the rope as you are getting ready to pull especially with a truck or tractor doing the pulling. The idea of the pull line is to keep tension on the tree as it comes over in the planned direction by using a proper notch and backcut. The rope should be kept tight but not like a 'banjo cord'. Have seen to many ropes get snapped at the wrong time from overtightening on the pull. be careful.

 

[Marc]

I would not worry about damaging the rope from friction running it through the crotches to set up the pull line. More damage comes from stretching the rope as you are getting ready to pull especially with a truck or tractor doing the pulling. The idea of the pull line is to keep tension on the tree as it comes over in the planned direction by using a proper notch and backcut. The rope should be kept tight but not like a 'banjo cord'. Have seen to many ropes get snapped at the wrong time from overtightening on the pull. be careful.

Thanks for the advice, but the purpose of the rope will be only to pull a tree the required distance to get over its tipping point if I can't get enough lift with my wedges. It will have barely enough tension in it to take the slack out until I've got my wedges set and the hinge finished. And fortunately, the only penalty for these trees going in the wrong direction (assuming it doesn't land on me) is either a mess with some multiflora, or a hang up, in which case we'd yank it out with the tractor and a chain.

 

[Dadatwins]

Thanks for the advice, but the purpose of the rope will be only to pull a tree the required distance to get over its tipping point if I can't get enough lift with my wedges. It will have barely enough tension in it to take the slack out until I've got my wedges set and the hinge finished. And fortunately, the only penalty for these trees going in the wrong direction (assuming it doesn't land on me) is either a mess with some multiflora, or a hang up, in which case we'd yank it out with the tractor and a chain.

Wedging is good but a pull line makes the job much easier and safer in my opinion especialy if you have a means to install the rope from the ground. The pull line compensates for wind also where as a wedge can only do so much. Setting up a 3:1 with a pull line and a fixed anchor ie: truck, tractor, another tree in the direction you want to go is the safest and most effecient way to go. Make sure you set your line more than 1/2 way up the tree and set your pull anchor far enough away that the tree does not hit it.

 

[Marc]

Wedging is good but a pull line makes the job much easier and safer in my opinion especialy if you have a means to install the rope from the ground. The pull line compensates for wind also where as a wedge can only do so much. Setting up a 3:1 with a pull line and a fixed anchor ie: truck, tractor, another tree in the direction you want to go is the safest and most effecient way to go. Make sure you set your line more than 1/2 way up the tree and set your pull anchor far enough away that the tree does not hit it.

Yeah... I've pulled trees over with ropes and tractors before, I do have basics down, however, it's been with rope my father's supplied I'd rather not use, though I have a little more rope and rigging experience from the FD and climbing than he does, so I'm kind of showing him the light and breaking bad habits. The size of the trees we'll be felling won't require a 3:1 and I don't really want to spend the money on the blocks and anchor ropes any way. We're pulling with an old Massey Ferguson 85 that runs well. Has more than enough grunt to pull over anything we're cutting.

 

[(WLL)]

toss your throw-line into the tree until you have a good strong crotch and the line is on the main stem. when you tie your pull-rope on the throw line it works best to tie a clove in the throw-line and pull your pull-line threw about 1-2 feet, cinch the clove and bend your pull line around the clove. that will keep your rig all in-line with no bulky knots. after you get your pull rope up in the tree and your throw line put away you need to get the rope set tight against the back side of the tree. tie a running bowline around the base of the tree about head high or above where your face cut will be. a bowline on a bight is a good mid-line connecting knot for a steel krab to the tractor if you cant use or dont need all your rope. use care and be cautious when making your face cut/notch. leave plenty of hinge wood on you back cut!!! use open face notches for better control, and try not to f-up

 

[appalachianarbo]

Have you had any problems with the tree twisting in the wrong direction with this method?

Nope...That's what the hinge is for.

If you're pulling in the direction of fall, how would the way the rope is tied make the tree twist?