sharpening chains at 35 degrees?

[Russ Melampy]

I had a discussion with a friend of mine regarding the angles on chains...my belief is that 35 degrees cuts better than 30 but possibly dulls faster. Should I be sharpening at 30 (according to stihl, etc...) instead? what are your thoughts and opinions? I am using a Granberg sharpener if that makes any difference. Russ

 

[w8ye]

If you are cutting white pine, blue spruce or red cedar, the 35 degrees might get you somewhere but it will dull faster than 30 degrees.

 

[drumbum]

Try 35* with semi-chisle

 

[Philbert]

Guys who cut only doug fir, or only white oak, or only . . . might be able to optimize their chain angle anywhere between 25 and 35 degrees. Chain manufacturers have to pick an angle based on expected, 'average users' cutting a mix of wood, which may or may not be you.

The advantage of sharpening your own chain, and being able to set the angles fairly accurately/consistently with your Granberg, is that you can experiment.

If you have a couple of identical chains, sharpen them at different angles, then try them side-by-side. See what works for you. You probably will not be able to notice a practical difference of a degree or two, but five degrees should be different. If not, stick with the standard angles.

Philbert

 

[Russ Melampy]

thanks for your responses, I was just curious if anyone else played around with this. I have been leaving it at 35 and I think it cuts great, but wanted to hear if there were any "negative" views of my doing so...I know that some chains are set at closer to 30 and have even changed an old stihl chain to 35 and it seems to cut better now, although "theoretically" it should dull faster due to the sharper angle, but again, I was just curious if anyone had opinions or ideas about the angles...thanks again. I do love the Granberg jig

 

[longbowch]

The recommended angle for semi-chisel is 35 degrees.

 

[Philbert]

. . .I have been leaving it at 35 and I think it cuts great, but wanted to hear if there were any "negative" views of my doing so...I know that some chains are set at closer to 30 . . .

I have asked a few people at Oregon this question, a few different times. The answer, as I understand it, is that you want all of your cutters the same (consistent angles, consistent length, etc.) so that the chain cuts smoothly. But there is not one 'correct' sharpening angle, as much as there is a recommended starting point.

There will be optimal angles for specific wood and conditions if you know what they will be. E.g. - if you try to cut a load of frozen oak with your 35 degree cutters, you will probably be disappointed. So either you pick an angle that works for the general mix of stuff you cut, or you keep different chains for different conditions (think of your saw as the ratchet, and the different bars and chains as the sockets on a socket set - switch out as needed).

If you like the way your chain cuts at 35*, but think that it dulls too easily, maybe learn how to do touch up sharpening in the field with a basic file guide, and use your Granberg to true things up periodically 'back at the shop'.

Philbert

 

[Russ Melampy]

I have asked a few people at Oregon this question, a few different times. The answer, as I understand it, is that you want all of your cutters the same (consistent angles, consistent length, etc.) so that the chain cuts smoothly. But there is not one 'correct' sharpening angle, as much as there is a recommended starting point.

There will be optimal angles for specific wood and conditions if you know what they will be. E.g. - if you try to cut a load of frozen oak with your 35 degree cutters, you will probably be disappointed. So either you pick an angle that works for the general mix of stuff you cut, or you keep different chains for different conditions (think of your saw as the ratchet, and the different bars and chains as the sockets on a socket set - switch out as needed).

If you like the way your chain cuts at 35*, but think that it dulls too easily, maybe learn how to do touch up sharpening in the field with a basic file guide, and use your Granberg to true things up periodically 'back at the shop'.

Philbert

This is exactly what I do, Philbert. I can hand file (free hand) very quickly for a touch up, but I don't trust myself to be able to hold the angle more than once or twice, then it's back to the bench (granberg). I have also learned that a hot chain sharpens a little easier than a cold one. I always carry a few extra presharpened chains with me, but rarely do I need to change chains anymore...Thanks again...I'm still learning as I go. Russ

 

[davbell22602]

I sharpen mine at 30. I cut nothing but white oak up here at the house.

 

[pops21]

What about 20 or 25 degrees? Would that slow the chain from dulling as fast?

 

[moody]

I use 2 different chains and angles. Hedge post chains I use Woodland Pro semi chisel and file it at 27* and I'm mindful of my gullet size. My "other" chain I like at 32 seems to work well. If you use a grinder then things are a little different but not in a bad way. Biggest gain to be had is proper raker height.

 

[Andyshine77]

35° is a bit much in harder wood in my experience. I prefer 25°-30° for most of my cutting. Proper hook plays a big part in durability, too much hook makes the tooth edge thin and weak.

 

[CTYank]

Simple, 30 deg on everything but "Vanguard" (full chisel) at 25 deg, with Granberg.

Pay close attention to height of file, like about 1/5 of diameter sitting above tooth edge.

My tool-bag, even walking to work-site :45 away, carries Granberg & files. Friend does same. For a very good reason. Extremism in chain filing is a virtue. (Barry Goldwater)

We love to see big chips. Lots. Now.