sharpening full chisel?

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komatsuvarna

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Trying to sharpen my sharpening skills, Ive googled a few short videos. As my luck, they all tell you something different.

Is the side plate supposed to be 90 degrees, or hooked a little, or alot? When I use a guide(stihl cheepo) I get more of a 90 degree angle. When I free hand it(not holding the file to low either) I get more of a hook.

Also, top plate angle. Using oregon lgx the box says 25 degree top angle. Is there advantages/disadvantages to using 30 degree or 35, or something different? I always just follow the stamped line in the top of the cutter.
 
I've got several different file guides, Oregon, Stihl, Husqvarna. They all work okay. One day I decided to just try it free hand, not only better results, but quicker also. New, quality files so you can feel the "bite" is the answer. Like you I just follow the angle of the witness mark. REJ2
 
I freehand file mine; like REJ2 says you need good sharp files so they do the work, not you.

I come out from under the tooth with every stroke, pushing material out the flat side of the tooth. I also give the file a small twist as I push, to work under the top cutter and push material out/forward and up. This gives me a really aggressive wire edge on the top and side cutters. It doesn't last long but WOW, for the first few minutes!

I work the file NOT parallel to the top face of the cutter. I'm coming up and out the side at a small angle to the bar, not perpendicular. Call me a rebel, but it really gets that point on the chisel. Then I come across the underside of the top cutter, rotating the file, to sharpen the whole tooth. It takes a bit of practice to get it right, but it's well worth it. Use your off hand thumbnail to guide the file across the cutter.

Sorry for the lousy explanation, but give it a rough guesstimate and maybe it'll pop out at you as you try. It feels really nice with a sharp file.
 
Get file o plates or the husky combi gauge..

I would say stick with whatever angles the chain comes with or whatever angle you can comfortably get a good edge.

The point of the chisel is very important. You want to mimic a new chain to keep it cutting the same. Get a new chain and look over the cutter very closely. Just some suggestions.
When filing make sure you get a good bite and look at the tooth face after taking a swipe to get an idea. Clamping the bar in a shop or stump vise can make things easier.
Admittedly I'm not the greatest hand filer but the fop and especially the combi gauge make it easy to sharpen and maintain my chains.
And whatever you do, stay away from fixed depth gauges..
 
For a newbie at filing, the file o plate does wonders. Makes a nice, smooth chain. It wont be record setting by any means, but will put her right back where she was from the factory.

I freehand 90% of the time, with the other 10% being when I absolutely blow out some cutters that are going to take a lot of filing, then I use the FOP to get me back in order.
 
You've gotten some good advice on sharpening.
I know I'm being anal, but come on guy's. There is no such thing as "full chisel" chain. There is semi-chisel. There used to be a chipper. There is round chisel, and then there is the square chisel. But I have never seen in any chain manufactrures literature an ad for "full chisel.

If I was going to call a type of chain "full chisel" it would look like this.
Goodgullet.jpg


Andy
 
You've gotten some good advice on sharpening.
I know I'm being anal, but come on guy's. There is no such thing as "full chisel" chain. There is semi-chisel. There used to be a chipper. There is round chisel, and then there is the square chisel. But I have never seen in any chain manufactrures literature an ad for "full chisel.

If I was going to call a type of chain "full chisel" it would look like this.
Goodgullet.jpg


Andy
Yep, hard too keep it looking that way without a high dollar grinder or a file and lots of patience learning how too use it.I belive it was worth the effort and appreciate your help.
 

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