Should I buy this 066?

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the under qualified and uninsured
Joined
Feb 14, 2022
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Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Here's pics of an 066 for sale on craigslist. It's 250 miles away but he only wants 400 bucks for it. I think that's a pretty decent deal but what do you all think?
Thanks much1651241714760.png1651241728765.png1651241747925.png1651241758583.png
 
Just a question, the non decomp ones would means that it was a older 066 (right?), but what does the metal tag flat top intail? Just trying to learn.
Thanks a lot,
Cameron
 
Just a question, the non decomp ones would means that it was a older 066 (right?), but what does the metal tag flat top intail? Just trying to learn.
Thanks a lot,
Cameron

Pretty much.
For those that like stock cylinders- the flat top 066 is deemed to be the better one and the flat top cylinder with decomp is not a common beast, so to have one of those is to have the better beast of the litter.
There was a change around the end of 066 and the beginning of 660 vintage saws where the older alloy model ID plate rivetted in place was updated with a plastic tag with clips moulded into the bottom of the plate. Alloy plate puts the saw into the desirable cylinder range and it is not often those old tags are still readable on an 066 as they wear off with age/use and are no longer available unless you go to the trouble of getting one made.
 
Just a question, the non decomp ones would means that it was a older 066 (right?), but what does the metal tag flat top intail? Just trying to learn.
Thanks a lot,
Cameron
In a broad sense, there were 3 066 variants. In order from oldest to newest: #1 had no decomp but it had a flat top cylinder cover, a "red light" coil, and was metal-tagged, short case unit. #2 had a decomp, a flat top, metal tag, and I believe was still a short cased unit. #3 had a decomp, a rounded top cover, a plastic model badge, and longer, updated cases. Compare how the one you've pictured looks to how this n.o.s. MS660 looks. The late 066's were the same except the tags said "066" and not "MS660". All three variants are good users, but the first two are typically stronger.
IMG_0602.JPGIMG_0603.JPG
 
While thanks a million for both of your detailed explanation!
Would it increase the value of the saw to put AM tank on it (its busted up in pic)
If I cleaned it up real good would it be a good idea to sell it/ what would be good price for it. Or should i just keep it lol. It would be my big saw as i got 024, 260, 362 (shiny of the shelf still).
---------------
It was listed 500, offered 375 accepted 400. Big reminder its 10 hours driving round trip + day trip not working. Even in little car its 100 bucks in gas :laugh:
edit: beautiful 660 by the way
 
It might increase the value to replace the tank with a good secondhand, period correct, OEM tank, not so much with aftermarket.
You have to do the math on if it is flippable for profit- loss of wages and 10 hours travel/fuel is going to cost a bundle. Justifiable if you need a 90cc plus saw for yourself- not so much to clean and flip.
 
You state excellent points there. I'm sure no where near a professional timber faller (sure'd like to be in few years, little to young for liability), just for big firewood. Probably should just get a longer bar for my 362 and call it good. Would you run a 25 or 28 on stock 362?
Thanks again!
 
You state excellent points there. I'm sure no where near a professional timber faller (sure'd like to be in few years, little to young for liability), just for big firewood. Probably should just get a longer bar for my 362 and call it good. Would you run a 25 or 28 on stock 362?
Thanks again!
A 25" will tackle a 4' tree. How many you see bigger than that?

I've made a few 4' trees into firewood back when I was younger. 2 mauls, a 20-lb sledge, and half a dozen steel wedges were used..........
 
Personally, on a 59cc saw- I would not step above a 20" bar 3/8 and I cut mainly softwoods- but I also have a heap of other larger saws to grab rather than upsizing the bar.
Having said that I just picked up a 2152 (red and black 353) with a 20" 3/8 set up on it and came with an 18" 3/8 bar and chain!
If what you cut in Michigan can be handled with 60cc and 25, your money to spend!
 
Extremely appreciate everyone’s replies, I think I’m going to stay away from that 066 as I don’t absolutely need a saw that big. I’m thinking when I sell my 100th cord I’ll go buy a shiny Swedish 372 if I can find one, or a 462. Very informative everyone.
Thanks again
 
Extremely appreciate everyone’s replies, I think I’m going to stay away from that 066 as I don’t absolutely need a saw that big. I’m thinking when I sell my 100th cord I’ll go buy a shiny Swedish 372 if I can find one, or a 462. Very informative everyone.
Thanks again
Do yourself a favor. Before you buy ANY used saw, the first thing to do is ALWAYS do a compression test first. Then go from there.
 
That’s a great idea, don’t exactly have anyway to do. I suppose I can figure that out when the time comes.
:rock:
 

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