siswheel questions

[garyischofield]

I'm curious about the effect the vertical cut of the siswheel has on swinging the tree into the intended lay.I suspect it has to do with spreading out the stress on the holding fiber by having a vertical face.I'm doing a lot of high stress felling for a local tree service.We are always trying to push the envelope to cut corners.If I first put in the bottom diagonal cut of a Humboldt.The vertical cut (the width of the bar) the width of the bottom scarf cut.Followed by a conventional diagonal meeting the top of the vertical cut.Does anybody have experience with this in an effort to increase directional control.I had too many close calls and am trying to learn something.We are utilizing ropes,cables,winches,machines etc.All the usual skills from 40 years of directional felling in a logging setting.I notice that even with ropes high and pulling into a lay compensating for serious side lean,some of the wood is giving up prematurely.Softer Maples,White Pine come to mind.I use a conventional scarf,very steep angle ,(60 degrees),and lots of hingewood.No over cutting on one of the scarf cuts.I'm trying to get away from "overscarfing" the lay of the tree ,then cutting the holding to wood to release it into the lay.Can that vertical cut on the face strengthen the holding wood?Anyone?A giant thumbs up to some Western type AS members who put up videos of swinging tall wood with Dutchman's and Siswheels.The tallest tree I ever cut had 6-16" logs with a 30 'top.Thanks,Gary

 

[bitzer]

Some species pop fibers a lot faster than others no matter what. You need fibers that will bend in the first place. Maple and red oak don't usually respond too well to it or at least not much more than just a dutchman and a heavy hinge. While others like ash, white oak, and hickory will stay on the stump all day. The siswheel gives room for the fibers to bend instead of break. I think it is an adaptation of a block face. You will get the best results when you dutch your far side. Also a snipe will allow your face to stay open a little longer or at least help kick the tree around. On trees with brittle holding wood a soft dutchman can help them stay on the stump longer. Sometimes with big timber and heavy crowns there is not much you can do. You can whittle away at a stump all you want and they will still go where they want. If you're already rigging the tree and its not huge you shouldn't need much more than if or when to cut the far side off. Just keep an eye on the top while you're back cutting.

This ash was hanging way out over a highway. I left a lot on the hinge and even had to wedge a little to keep er off the road. Roots help a lot too when you've got them.

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[garyischofield]

thanks,

I'm curious. If I used a bloc cut with diagonal top and bottom cuts,does that allow the fiber to hold longer by not flexing in a small area?Those are great pics of the siswheel.I've noticed my hingewood giving up way on some species before the face cuts meet.Thanks.

 

[bitzer]

I almost always put some type of snipe on it. The snipe will help guide it to the lay as well. This hard maple stayed on the stump almost to the ground. The face is even across the front. Just a crappy cell pic.

I left a lot more hinge on that ash siswheel than I normally would to make sure it came around. It was also over a root swell. Leaving more wood is better than having less. You just have to watch as its coming around and cut accordingly. If its moving how you want it to leave it alone. More than anything when swinging trees its how you cut them as they are moving. If something is not working you've got to change something quick.

Just a dutchman and a root here. I popped a wedge in so I could keep cutting as it sat down and just watched how it moved. Sometimes if you don't have the middle cut up enough it will kill the action and break off early. Lots of touch and feel on swinging and reading trees.

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[garyischofield]

nice job on the ash

I'm going to try a few new cuts,siswheel,block cut,and see what happens.Thanks,great pics.

 

[Rounder]

" More than anything when swinging trees its how you cut them as they are moving. If something is not working you've got to change something quick. "

Bob hit the nail on the head. My eyes are glued to the top when swinging a tree. That top will tell you exactly what needs to change whith your holding wood- when and where.

-Sam

 

[056kid]

You can see the rub where it came all the way into face. Small but good insurance.

 

[garyischofield]

nice pics

Okay,I'll give this a whirl.Thanks for the replies.

 

[Tree Feller]

So i think i have it right here? You cut the dutchman on the farside of the siswheel and the siswheel is cut on the side you want to swing the tree? the dutchman lets thats side fall faster jaming it into the notch to direct it in to the desired direction of fall? Also will a siswheel swing a tree that much further than a dutchman and a thicker hindge on the swing side? I know every tree is different and some dont respond well to swinging at all. I would just like to learn as many tricks and trades as i can. Thanks!