So I Want To Build My Own Alaskan Mill

[Spokerider]

I have been looking at purchasing a Granberg Mill, or maybe a Logsol Timberjig mill, but with the cost of shipping [ to Canada ] and the dollar exchange plus taxes etc, it pretty much doubles the cost of the mill......ouch!

............So, being industrious, having a mig and some other fabricating tools and a few other home built projects under my belt, I would like to make my own mill.

I'm thinking of keeping to a hand operated mill as mentioned for the time being, as I wish to keep with the simplicity and portability of this type of mill. My intentions are to make some 8"x8" beams and some 3" x 10" beams from doug fir or hemlock. I have a 390XP with 32" and 42" bars, and would like to make the mill based on the 32" bar length.

Does anyone have any links to designs for a home built mill of this type?
I'm also looking for imput on any "improvements" that can be made to the Granberg design mill.
So what works well and what does not?

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Spokerider]

Been looking at different designs of chainsaw mills via Google.
The Panthermill 2 looks to be a pretty sturdy design.
http://www.pantherpros.com/panthermill2.html

Wondering if the weight and heft of steel is an asset to milling, perhaps adding stability to balance out the weight of the saw cantilevered out over the mill?

Also wondering about how effective the rails are "clamped" into the cross member bars, with those angle-shaped clamps and bolts? Would they come loose with saw vibes?
As an alternative to the clamps, could holes be drilled in the rails, say every 2" [ in the ends opposite from the powerhead end ] and just bolt the rails to the cross members? This way, the overall length adjustment of the mill is maintained, with the security of bolts and nuts.

 

[kimosawboy]

There is alot out there if you spend some time and look.http://www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-mill/
Most of the designs are similar and you might be best going along those lines. Panthermill/Alaskan... all close to the same.
If you are going to build one from scratch, start with the longest bar you would want to use.(or build this one as practice for the next)
Forget about bar clamps and just drill your bar.
Use good hardware(not that Home depot crap) buy some good grade bolts and weld the nuts on where required. Use all the same size bolts if possible /less tools to carry around.
The panthermill uses a 1x2 for the verticals....follow that example.
You want this thing really light/but very rigid at the same time.
Keep in mind you will want an auxiliary oiler, design accordingly.
I have never bothered to make a 16" slab, 12" vertical risers would be enough for me.

Thats my 2cents
have fun

G Vavra

 

[Spokerider]

There is alot out there if you spend some time and look.http://www.instructables.com/id/Chainsaw-mill/
Most of the designs are similar and you might be best going along those lines. Panthermill/Alaskan... all close to the same.
If you are going to build one from scratch, start with the longest bar you would want to use.(or build this one as practice for the next)
Forget about bar clamps and just drill your bar.
Use good hardware(not that Home depot crap) buy some good grade bolts and weld the nuts on where required. Use all the same size bolts if possible /less tools to carry around.
The panthermill uses a 1x2 for the verticals....follow that example.
You want this thing really light/but very rigid at the same time.
Keep in mind you will want an auxiliary oiler, design accordingly.
I have never bothered to make a 16" slab, 12" vertical risers would be enough for me.

Thats my 2cents
have fun

G Vavra

Thanks for the reply Kimosawboy.

I spent 4 hrs today reading about the different mills and mods guys are doing.........like drilling the bar, adding wheels to the inboard crossmember, etc. More to read for sure.
Got digging through the steel supplies that I have, turns out I have a bunch of 1.25" square, 1" square, flat bar etc. Since I don't have any 1" x 2" rectangle tube for the uprights [ like Panthermill ] I will substitute some 1.5" and 1.25" round tube for the uprights.

About drilling the bar.........will cobalt drill bits work?.....thinking particularly the center of the nose sprocket........seems to be considered the most difficult hole to drill.

Haven't read too deeply on the aux oiler yet.........still researching the basics, but an oiler is in the plans for sure.

 

[Spokerider]

Surprise! Another question, lol.

What is the optimum width for the base? Is 16" wide better than 12"? Wider yet? I'm thinking wider, to a certain extent, will be more stable than a narrow base of say.......10".
Thoughts?

 

[BobL]

Weight is a disadvantage when
a) the mill is being moved around and
b) when it is lifted on and off the log.
I get around a) by using detachable wheels attached to the mill
Weight is an advantage when the mill is riding down a sloped log as it means much less pushing.


Width wise, theres not much to be gained going to a wider base, and wide mills end up just taking up more room in storage. One advantage is it will be easier to touch up the chain while the saw is on the mill but I get around that by dropping the bar away from the mill base - although it can be a bit of a PITA.

Using two uprights that bolt to the bar bolts on the inboard side has a couple of advantages. One is the powerhead is closer to the log so is better balanced and the other more of the bar can be used right hard up against the saw casing if needed.

 

[bbain32]

Spokerider, Granberg mills are available from Lee Valley in Canada, no exchange to deal with and shipping costs will be minimal.

note, my first post, hopefully naming a company other than a site sponsor is OK.

 

[Spokerider]

Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I have read many of your post so far, and they are all very informative and helpful, thank you!
That's a nice looking mill there. I like the way the saw is mounted onto the mill via the bar-bolts. I am going to incorporate that into my plans. I could *probably* fab a bar-bolt bracket and attach to a single round pipe upright.........but the stability might not be there....... What about two uprights at the saw end, with said bar-bolt mounting bracket like you have done, and a single round pipe upright at the bar-nose end.......with a single bolt through the sprocket bearing center? Might be easier in the end to make 4 uprights and be done with it though.

For your bar-nose mount, what do you have going on with the complicated V shaped bracket that you have fabbed? Looks interesting.

 

[Spokerider]

Yes, thanks, I saw them online.
I'm still going to make my own however. I have the steel, the time, and I've already spent a crap-load on other parts like a lewis winch, 390 xp, and building a loader to load logs into my pickup box.
Buying new steel is very spendy today..........not like a few years ago. .
Plus........I just like making my own junk!

 

[BobL]

Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I have read many of your post so far, and they are all very informative and helpful, thank you!

Glad to be of help.

That's a nice looking mill there. I like the way the saw is mounted onto the mill via the bar-bolts. I am going to incorporate that into my plans. I could *probably* fab a bar-bolt bracket and attach to a single round pipe upright.........but the stability might not be there....... What about two uprights at the saw end, with said bar-bolt mounting bracket like you have done, and a single round pipe upright at the bar-nose end.......with a single bolt through the sprocket bearing center?

That's sort of what the BIL mill has.


This is the outboard nose clamp that clamps down onto a short bolt that passes through the nose sprocket bearing centre.



The ally jaws started to wear so I added these steel jaw inserts that hold the bolt in a groove in the jaws.
Even though the outboard jaw grips both sides, one bolt and the jaw is assembles so I can still take the chain off the bar without removing the saw from the mill.

For your bar-nose mount, what do you have going on with the complicated V shaped bracket that you have fabbed? Looks interesting.

That's a semi-auto outboard chain tensioning device.

 

[kimosawboy]

''Plus........I just like making my own junk!''

That is a great attitude ( I could not find a thumbs up Smiley dude, so rock on guy will have to do)

 

[Spokerider]

So I have a new Oregon Power Match bar coming. I bought a new Milwaukee 5/16ths masonary bit to drill the sprocket nose. Do I need to do anything to that drill bit, as in modifying the carbide tip before drilling the hole? I also have a new 3/16ths glass and tile bit with a spear-shaped carbide tip, and a bunch of cobalt 1/8th bits to drill the pilot hole with.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[BobL]

So I have a new Oregon Power Match bar coming. I bought a new Milwaukee 5/16ths masonary bit to drill the sprocket nose. Do I need to do anything to that drill bit, as in modifying the carbide tip before drilling the hole? I also have a new 3/16ths glass and tile bit with a spear-shaped carbide tip, and a bunch of cobalt 1/8th bits to drill the pilot hole with.
Thanks for your thoughts.

The 5/16th masonry bit will work fine. You will need high pressure (i.e. a Drill Press) and slow speed ~200 RPM, a lots of coolant/lube - I use an old detergent squirt bottle with metal cutting lube but even water will work.
When the bit starts to break through, if the hole is even you can flip the bar and drill from the other side as it leaves a smoother exit.

 

[Spokerider]

Thanks for the reply Bob.
My drill press has a lowest speed of 460 rpm, so I will try it with that. Plan B is the die-grinder and a carbide bit.

 

[abbott295]

I have had no problem drilling various bars with a masonry bit and a bench-top drill press. plenty of lubricant.