So this 2100 I have...

[Griffbm3]

Hello everyone:

I have had this old 2100 for about 6 months, always starts right up, I run good gas and oil through it, a variety of bars and chains (20" for Sawtroll up to a 28") for some of the bigger Oaks and Sugar Maple around here.

I have rebuilt the carb since I had it, and changed the plug, fuel line normal stuff for an older saw. The saw cuts like a champ, and never really quits, but yesterday when I came out of the cut, it started revving a little high on its own. In the next cut it didn't do it again as I was bucking up a tree. I thought maybe some linkage could have gotten a little gummy.

At the end of the day it did it one more time after a long cut. If it is an air leak, I know the seals are readily available for this saw, are they especially difficult on a 2100, or not too bad? Every other tear down I have done has been on my Stihls, or Dolmar, but not on this 2100 besides the carb yet...

The look through the exhaust is clear with compression at 155 psi. Thoughts, suggestions, any help would be great. Thanks everyone.

Jason

 

[Al Smith]

Well,2100 Huskie or 2100 Homelite? Homelite,I have the numbers and can cross reference them with Chicago rawhide.Huskie,I need the the OEM numbers.

 

[Griffbm3]

Sorry, 2100 Husky

I meant to say that...
Jason

 

[Sprig]

Hm, it'll lean out near the end of a tank of gas, could be an small air leak, or I am wondering if it has one of those little fins thingies beside the flywheel that advances the timing/opens carb and maybe its gotten crudded up a bit and isn't returning, or sticking linkage to carby? Check the simple first and I maintain that I am a novice these are only stabs in da dark, great saw ya got there; the first I ever bought new but I never worked on it. Sure there will be better suggestions for you forthcoming, good luck and keep us posted eh!



Serge

 

[Al Smith]

I meant to say that...
Jason

If you or somebody can get the oem numbers of the seals ,I can cross reference them.I have the "Holy Grail" of cross references ,the big book of CR and National oil seals.

 

[Lakeside53]

... or I am wondering if it has one of those little fins thingies beside the flywheel that advances the timing/opens carb and maybe its gotten crudded up a bit and isn't returning, or sticking linkage to carby?

Serge

On a 2100???

 

[Madsaw]

Al
Maybe you should have not said anything. I got the holy big pile of NOS CR seals here!
Bob

 

[Al Smith]

Al
Maybe you should have not said anything. I got the holy big pile of NOS CR seals here!
Bob

Well then,sell him one.:hmm3grin2orange:

I really don't know if you can cross reference a Husky seal or not.Stihl,being the stinkers that they are in addition to OEM bearings,also have OEM seals on most of their products.Can you imagine this,on an 084 clutch side the damned seal is 20mm,by 39MM.20 by 40 is standard.The flywheel side is something like 15 by 29.6.There ought to be a law against that nonsense ,geeze.

 

[PWB]

Well then,sell him one.:hmm3grin2orange:

I really don't know if you can cross reference a Husky seal or not.Stihl,being the stinkers that they are in addition to OEM bearings,also have OEM seals on most of their products.Can you imagine this,on an 084 clutch side the damned seal is 20mm,by 39MM.20 by 40 is standard.The flywheel side is something like 15 by 29.6.There ought to be a law against that nonsense ,geeze.

Just went through this with a seal on an injection pump (Bosch VE pump on my volkswagen) Same problem............. If I remember right it's 17mm x28.1mm!

 

[adkranger]

Hello everyone:

I have had this old 2100 for about 6 months, always starts right up, I run good gas and oil through it, a variety of bars and chains (20" for Sawtroll up to a 28") for some of the bigger Oaks and Sugar Maple around here.

I have rebuilt the carb since I had it, and changed the plug, fuel line normal stuff for an older saw. The saw cuts like a champ, and never really quits, but yesterday when I came out of the cut, it started revving a little high on its own. In the next cut it didn't do it again as I was bucking up a tree. I thought maybe some linkage could have gotten a little gummy.

At the end of the day it did it one more time after a long cut. If it is an air leak, I know the seals are readily available for this saw, are they especially difficult on a 2100, or not too bad? Every other tear down I have done has been on my Stihls, or Dolmar, but not on this 2100 besides the carb yet...

The look through the exhaust is clear with compression at 155 psi. Thoughts, suggestions, any help would be great. Thanks everyone.

Jason

Keep us posted on how you make out on this, if it is the seals. I also have a 2100 that was given to me by a relative. Runs pretty good, great compression, but I cannot get it to idle w/o trying to spin the chain(idle screw backed all the way out). I've only used a few times and after some reading it seems it may have a leak so don't want to ruin it. I need to get it vaccum/pressure tested and probably need to replace seals. May tackle myself if it seems feasible......

 

[Al Smith]

Just went through this with a seal on an injection pump (Bosch VE pump on my volkswagen) Same problem............. If I remember right it's 17mm x28.1mm!

It is a mind set by most German manufactures.They do it on purpose to controll the after market parts trade and the price.

What those wizards never got through there somewhat thick headed way of thinking is "Yankee" ingenuity.You may be able to remachine seal pockets or rework a bearing on an od or id grinder,in a pinch.Most casses however the cost and time involved can't be justified .Any more I just mumble and grumble and pony up the cash.

 

[Griffbm3]

So Far So Good

I thought I would update this thread a little. First of all, I saw that someone has his grandfathers "Olympic 261", great saw, built like tanks, but heavy...

Onto my 2100. When I took the top cover off this time, looking a little more carefully, I suppose the ignition switch cable could have come to rest on top of the linkage causing a temporary spike up in throttle. I continued with another good cleaning, took off the flywheel/clutch and oiler. Really gave it a good cleaning, unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it nice and hot in a cut in the last few days.

The season opens for me in Connecticut on August 1 at 0700 for my firewood permit, so I will let you know then. By the way, do leaking seals "sound" different than a saw at the end of a tank of fuel? Just wondering in case I hear something next time.

Just want to thank everyone here for all of the advice, my list of saws has changed and grown, but it truly is amazing what people will give you when they find out you can work on saws. An older gent just GAVE me an older 266XP that was his, and he was by no means a commercial user. I gave him $50 for an older Ariens snowblower with the following attachments; the rotary mower, leaf vaccum, and a spare snowblower. When I was driving away, he gave me 3 more tecumseh engines, and the 266 for nothing (Needed a starter rope, fired right up)

Thanks again everyone,

Jason