Some spark, but not enough!

[wolfpawtimber]

Some of you may have seen my build thread on my Canadien 276, but I am having a little luck. I took off part of the flywheel, so I could get at the points, and man were they dirty! No metal showing at all! Anyway, I cleaned them with 600 grit sandpaper, and wiped them with a cloth. Then I reassembled and treid to start it. No luck at first, so I took the ground/switch wire off and moved it around the block of the chain saw. After a few pulls I saw a spark, a couple more and another. I had 5 sparks in all! Amazing for me though. Anyway, I tried another wire touching where the ground wire was, but no luck. I didn't get any more sparks after this. Any suggestions? I gather the coil works from this, which is good! :help:

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Hows your airgap?



You can set it with a buisiness card, just undo the coil screws and pinch the card between the coil and flywheel and tighten the screws.



Your flywheel even comes with handy magnets installed to help you with this procedure.

 

[fubar2]

Look for rust on the magnet on the flywheel or a heavy coat of anything on it. Ive sanded rust off and gotten spark before.

 

[wolfpawtimber]

My air gap is fixed, but I was wondering what that was supposed to look like. Is it supposed to be a mesh or solid metal. It is pretty dirty, and without taking off the flywheel, I can't get to it very well. I scraped off most of the dirt, but my limited knowlege is killing me here. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[wolfpawtimber]

I sanded it down pretty good, and there is barely a little bit of rust left. Will that matter enough to make it sparkless?

 

[wolfpawtimber]

Haven't got any more spark lately. Any more suggestions?

 

[Patrick62]

Somewhere...

On this forum, recently.... I posted a method of setting timing on a 2 cycle.
I can't find it right now. Since I am basicly a nice guy, I will send you a PM with my method. It isn't really easy, but not that complicated either.

-Pat

 

[wolfpawtimber]

I took apart the saw today to try and fix my problem, but again no luck! I made a flywheel puller to pull off my flywheel, and found the points dirty and rusted. I thought the U metal thing around the coil was the points! Duh! After figuring that out and pulling the flywheel off, I cleaned the point contact on the crankshaft and sanded it. Then I filed a little off the points until they were nice and shiny. Then I found the TDC (isn't that the farthest possible gap between the points and the crankshaft part?) and set the gap @ .015 1mm back. I tested it with the ohm meter with no change. Is it + on the points and - on the cranshaft? It seemed like they were open the whole time, because it always stayed at 1 on the ohm meter while I was turning it. But if I put both the +- on the points, then it wouldn't register either. After reassembling there was still no spark! All the wires are continous, and the switch works. How can I test the condenser to see if it works? How can I check to see if the spark plug wire is continous? I am pretty stuck here.:help: :help: :help:

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[RED-85-Z51]

Top Dead Center is when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, as far as it will go.

To set the points gap, loosen the screw, and let em touch.

Make sure the lobe is at its farthest lift, then take your feeler gauge, and put it on the recommended thickness, lets say 0,020". Open the points with the sliding side, put the feeler gauge square in the gap, and press the other side down on it, tighten the screw, and recheck the gap.

The gauge should fit in snugly.

Ive been doing it this way forever, so far, so good.

 

[wolfpawtimber]

I did this first, but when I put it like that, then my points never ended up touching the flywheel part. The closest they get is .010 away. Aren't they supposed to come in contact with the flywheel part to "close" it, or is my assumption totally wrong. I looked some other place on here and got the idea that it was the farthest space away from the points. Oh well, should have gone wit my gut feeling....

 

[Al Smith]

The points will be touching[closed] up until the point in time the ignition should fire,then they open.This point should be some where close to where the flywheel magnets align with the lamination pieces of the coil.The coil air gap should be around 10 to 12 thou,usually.

Too wide of a point gap causes early fire, too little causes late fire.

Providing the points are clean,the gap should be in the 15 to 18 thou range.

To test a condenser ,use an analog type meter that uses a movement,not a digital.Place the meter in resistance mode and touch one lead to the wire,the other to the case.Change to low voltage D.C.and reverse the meter leads.Providing you had the correct polarity the meter movement should rise rapidly then decline.If this doesn't work try step one with reversed leads.

What you are doing is "charging" the condenser then verifing the charge by bleeding it off through the meter movement in the low voltage setting.

 

[wolfpawtimber]

I have liftoff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Man, after all your guys help, my efforts have really paid off! I finally got it set right this time, but not at first I thought. After setting it, I put it all back together and tried to start it. Nothing! after 10 or so pulls, I decided to flick the switch, and bam, I saw hot, blue, wonderful, extraordinary spark! I assembled the rest, gassed it up, and nothing. So I poured 40:1 down the carb, still nothing. I took the spark plug out and tried it, and flames spurted out. Put it back in, and I nearly broke my hand off on that first pull! 2 careful more pulls and it caught and took off! Tested it out on a log and man was it fun! A little heavy and SSSSHHHHAAAAKKKKYYYY!:spam: Oh wait, i'm not 21 yet!

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Glad you hear you got it going!