spar rigging safety concern

[Plasmech]

I have yet to rig down a spar but I'm going through it in my mind. What concerns me most is possibly being hit by the spar once it starts to drop. For example, even if I have it rigged perfectly, if the ground guy were to hold the rope (through the port-a-wrap) too tightly, couldn't the spar stop short during the fall and swing back and hit my legs or feet? If the block (pulley) is right above my lanyard and the bowline with half-hitch is arms-length above the cut, I'm imagining there just be the right (or rather wrong) amount of rope between the two that I could be hit. Is this possible? Obviously the ground guy shouldn't have a death-grip on the rope but if he does...

 

[Mikecutstrees]

Usually depending on the shape and lean of the tree, the block will slam the spar. Not fun either. Usually if you keep your feet in back you are ok if the groundie screws up. You have to have faith in your groundies though. Train them well and keep an eye on them. Make sure they arn't standing on the rope or doing smething else dumb. Be safe.... Mike
P.S. only block down very small block when you and the groundie are new at this....

 

[Treetom]

The climber in my recent video (A job from yesterday) rigs a spar down with a pretty much barebones approach. His first such rigging, by the way.

Or check out Reg's video (rigging a spar) for a more textbook technique.

 

[southsoundtree]

I think that it is safe to say that you would be safer with your climbline cinched around the spar and your lanyard wrapped around the spar ABOVE the rigging. It prevents the possibility of the rigging sling sliding down onto your life-support gear. You prevent the rigging rope from running over your climbline and lanyard with the possibility of damage, or just pinning your gear in place.

Remember to place your kerf cuts below the hinge in case the side of the hinge tears down or there is a minor barberchair.

If there is a major barberchair (more likely if you are taking a leaning top) and you are around the trunk with a flipline, you/ your harness and your person within the harness are part of the circle around the pole. If there is a major barberchair and split, you get sucked into the trunk and smashed, especially dangerous if you have left any stubs on the tree. You can address this by repositioning your lanyard from you D-rings to your bridge, and have the climbline on your bridge. Sometimes I'll keep my weight on my cinched climbline with GriGri SRT, and clip the snap of my flipline back to the running/ standing part of the flipline (between the adjuster and the tree). This keeps me from only relying on my bridge with no back-up.



As for your more specific question, if you are choked off to the tree, you don't have to worry about staying on your spikes in a more vulnerable position. With the choked climbline, you can pull your spikes out if you see the log coming at your feet.

This should not be happening in the first place. Call and Respond with your groundman: "I'm going to facecut, then backcut this piece. You let it run clear of me and give it a soft catch." Response:" Facecut. Backcut. Drop it clear of you. Soft catch! Ready!"

I was working on a lombardi poplar and for no good reason the groundie thought that I wanted the piece stoppped dead/ snubbed off. He shockloaded the rigging which was on the stem that I was relying on for my life. I was not a happy camper. If you/ groundie are new to it, be extra explicit on what you want, and what they understand that you want. After working together for a while, you will be able to be less explicit. The groundie should understand what the set-up will be and double check from the ground. Too many people have had a climbline still attached to the piece being dropped and caught. The groundie should double check, and let you know if it looks good or if you should triple check before cutting, or if he can't see the set-up.

Good question. Keep asking them, and reading old posts. Be Safe.

 

[lego1970]

In the air, I try to be in a position where I can get out of the way or have the trunk block it. Even though I've been injured from this type of accident it doesn't bother me much. However on the ground, for some reason I'm gun shy as hell. It makes me nervous as hell to let the piece free fall, then catch it with the rope, especially if you let it swing then let it free fall into the drop zone. I'll admit, I've never been good at that.

 

[beastmaster]

The difference between a dead catch and letting it run some can be dramatic. The ground guys have to be on their toes and paying attention. If the piece isn't allowed to run a little there is quit a bit of shock and the piece can bounce back at you, but more likely you'll just get shaked like a rag doll.

 

[outofmytree]

I think that it is safe to say that you would be safer with your climbline cinched around the spar and your lanyard wrapped around the spar ABOVE the rigging. It prevents the possibility of the rigging sling sliding down onto your life-support gear. You prevent the rigging rope from running over your climbline and lanyard with the possibility of damage, or just pinning your gear in place.

Remember to place your kerf cuts below the hinge in case the side of the hinge tears down or there is a minor barberchair.

If there is a major barberchair (more likely if you are taking a leaning top) and you are around the trunk with a flipline, you/ your harness and your person within the harness are part of the circle around the pole. If there is a major barberchair and split, you get sucked into the trunk and smashed, especially dangerous if you have left any stubs on the tree. You can address this by repositioning your lanyard from you D-rings to your bridge, and have the climbline on your bridge. Sometimes I'll keep my weight on my cinched climbline with GriGri SRT, and clip the snap of my flipline back to the running/ standing part of the flipline (between the adjuster and the tree). This keeps me from only relying on my bridge with no back-up.



As for your more specific question, if you are choked off to the tree, you don't have to worry about staying on your spikes in a more vulnerable position. With the choked climbline, you can pull your spikes out if you see the log coming at your feet.

This should not be happening in the first place. Call and Respond with your groundman: "I'm going to facecut, then backcut this piece. You let it run clear of me and give it a soft catch." Response:" Facecut. Backcut. Drop it clear of you. Soft catch! Ready!"

I was working on a lombardi poplar and for no good reason the groundie thought that I wanted the piece stoppped dead/ snubbed off. He shockloaded the rigging which was on the stem that I was relying on for my life. I was not a happy camper. If you/ groundie are new to it, be extra explicit on what you want, and what they understand that you want. After working together for a while, you will be able to be less explicit. The groundie should understand what the set-up will be and double check from the ground. Too many people have had a climbline still attached to the piece being dropped and caught. The groundie should double check, and let you know if it looks good or if you should triple check before cutting, or if he can't see the set-up.

Good question. Keep asking them, and reading old posts. Be Safe.

Excellant information here.

If you are working on timber likely to barber chair (pine for example), then use wing cuts when dropping blocks and if you are really concerned strap the trunk below the rigging point. I have a few 4 tonne tie down ratchet straps which we use for just this purpose.

 

[lync]

on a heavy leaner top i use a bore cut to set the notch then cut the backstrap to drop the top. this can prevent the spar from splitting, and causing major injuries. do a seach for bore cuts, practice them while felling before you use them in the tree
coirey

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

If you are sure of your actions, you can Round Turn around spar.


If any length, elasticity to wait/impacts could place top below your feets. Then, of course, ground control isung some tension releif helps too.