spikes, climbers, whatever

[jamie]

Ive been slowly working my way towards a climbing position since starting with the company i am with and they are now sendng me up trees (yippee), after a few deadwoods, i was sent up a few in spikes (climbers) today to rig lines and maybe knock the tops off of a few (woodland thinning). when i learnt to climb i had a quick session spiking (belayed though) and today was a real eye opener,

any pointers on technique that i can use,

oh and my boss is now talking about making me part of the climbng team (well part of the 3 (now) climbers in a 5 man squad and one of us spends most of his time away in the mulcher)

anyway, im sure that i will come back with more questions later but ive learnt a fair bit about spiking today

roll on trees with branches again that i can CLIMB properly, not with these funny spike things.....

jamie

 

[NeTree]

Jamie,

Welcome to our clan- the Order of ArboristSite-ers.

Nothing wrong with those pike thingies when used properly and at the proper times. (in other words, removals).

The best advice anyone can give you is to always put your safety first and foremost. Never compromise on that. Everything else, even the work quality, comes after that.

Read through the threads here; it will take awhile, but there's busloads of invaluable info here.

Don't be afraid to ask questions - EVER. Climb with someone experienced, who can answer your questions and show you hands-on what needs to be done. Listen to them.

Practice practice practice.

Have the RIGHT gear. Don't be a tink when getting gear. Get top-quality stuff, and get it new. Replace it when it gets worn. The difference between an easy climb and a miserable one can often be a slight difference in gear and technique.

Enjoy what you do.

 

[rborist1]

:Eye:

 

[Tom Dunlap]

Once you set the spikes in the wood, get onto your legs and lock your knees softly. that takes the load off your muscles and puts it on your bones. This also has a tendency to keep your knees away from the trunk. This forces the hooks to stay in the wood. If you knee hug, you're more likely to cut out.

Keep you hooks sharp according to the manufacturers guidelines.

Try not to move around on your spikes. this tends to slot the hole making it less secure.

Listen to the sound of the tree when you sink the spike. This will give you a clue about how much decay might be in the trunk. when the tree is being blocked up, take a look at the inside. Keep a mental notebook about the sounds. This knowledge could save your life someday.

Tom

 

[MasterBlaster]

Read the NebClimber threads - we're schooling him pretty good. And don't stick the spur in your leg! (I WISH somebody would have told me that)

 

[timberfell]

Keep in mind angles and dangles.

Realize what angle your legs and where your body weight has to be to keep those spikes in the wood.
The closer your knees get to the tree the more likely you are to kick out.

Sit back into the lanyard/saddle and resist the urge to put your hands on the tree, you shouldn't need to touch it much to feel comfortable.

Spend some money on a good pair of pads if you haven't already. They can make a world of difference. There are a bunch of posts on which ones we all like.

 

[jamie]

cheers

ive been watching over the page for a while now, absorbing what i can, i can climb but my work have been making sure that i can handle myself on the ground first, and letting me watch whats going on and get into it all good and proper.....

i'd hope that im up to scratch on good practice, ive done my climbing and chainsaw tickets and a arb course.....

just waiting for my boss to train me and put me through the arial use of saws......then im up there good and proper.......

as for kit, he buys it, i have the responsibility of making sure its in good nick, as with LOLER and PUWER regualtions

jamie

 

[tshanefreeman]

The guys comments on keeping your knees out is key. If your knees are too close, this will mean that you are standing staight up on you gaffs..............which will likely lead to kick-outs.

One thing that I didn't see mentioned was how to successfully move around limbs on your way to the top. Even though every removal will have different situations, one must know how to safely manouver throughout. I personally have gone to a two lanyard system...........one on each side of my belt...........when I'm doing removals. This is in conjunction with my climbing line. The purpose of a second lanyard is to allow the climber to tie-in over a limb, become secure, unhook the lower lanyard and continue up the trunk.................if the climber were only to have one lanyard and no climbing line....................climber safety could become an issue!

 

[underwor]

Here is a picture of the rig that Grigory of www.udal.ru uses to do removals in the Moscow area. No one on the crew had ever used spurs. As you see, they climb with a two lanyard system, use a rack type descender and long lanyard to move through the tree on pruning jobs. It was an interesting trip and I picked up several good ideas.

http://165.234.175.12/photos/Russia/1 Trip Pictures/IM000155.JPG

For more images from the trip you can go to http://165.234.175.12/photos/Russia/

For now you will just have to guess what the pictures are until you open them.

See you, Bob

 

[NeTree]

 

[jamie]

boss up the tree

rocky,

the boss stays firmly on the ground, well maybe up another tree, working away but within earshot (should i need any help, id prefer it that way at first in case i come accross anything unusual etc)

ive got 3 harnesses to pick and choose from so that i can choose what i like to use, he and the other climbers both climb on prusiks all the time, (keeping it simple and safe) but i would like to experiment with other knots/devices to get me into and around the tree as my experience grows but for now im happy using that. ive got my own opinions and thoughts but at this stage in my career im willing to listen to his advice (as he can give it to me in person) and to that of you lot (which i have to think about slightly more as none of you are here).

as for others being in the tree, the only time that happened was on my climbing course (the instructor would come up occasionally to either put out markers for us to climb to, check us over as we completed something for the first time, help us with any problems, or supervise ou first arial rescues)....

as for training, he is going to put me through the courses i need to be properly qualified for insurance purposes, we are required (well the legit companies are) to have our NPTC 'blue book' to prove that we are competant in the use of all the machinery, tools and techniques.

id prefer to have a through working knowledge on the ground as its helped me get into the crew and have a laugh.

most of what you lot have said has been an echo of what i have been told, second lanyard, I (we) use a climbing line and use it to tie in then move the pole strop up and over (im in no hurry to fall).

cheers for the concern though, good to know you are 'watching' out for me, the comment earlier about listening to the sound was well appreciated, never thought of that, is this species dependant or does most wood have a similar thump....


cheers for all the comments, im sure that they will all help in the long term

jamie

 

[Lumberjack]

I use Buckingham spikes, and I agree with the others. I clim using a steel cored lanyard 18' with a prusik on the free end. I use it as both a flipline and a 2 in 1 lanyard. I like to stay relatively close to the tree. When I climb trees under say 31/2 ' in diameter I put my arms around the tree and hold the line and kick my spikes in the tree. I can climb relativly fast. Once I get were I am going I let out a little slack and lean back after kicking in my spikes. One note pine after standing on them for a while the spikes sometimes stick, On oak exspecially towards the top if you don't lean back the bark will pill out.


Carl

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Drive'em purposely into the layers of fibers, which means not straight up on verticals, leaned back so that you don't come in parallel to the fibers where you can peel out, but locking through the layers of fibers. That can change with angle of wood i think.

There usually is no boss in the tree, no coach, nor book; just you and a 1000 chances for things to go wrong. After a buddy of mine got hurt; i made this disclaimer for the store i talked into carrying some rope and gear; so they would continue.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Dang, Spidey, that skeered me!

 

[avalontree]

6 inches

An old tree guy once told me to spike uo in 6 inch "step"
for whatever reason, I still do that.
slow and secure

keep you spikes sharp

better to be too stuck in the bark then to have them slide

and keep the spikes tight
What kind of spikes are you using?
there are some really comfortable ones out there..I have velcro support up top,which has made a world of difference in terms of pain..

have fun! I remember my first climbs...I sometimes wish i could go back to thost first time moments!

 

[DDM]

Hmmmmmm okay 2-1/2 yr old thread.:yoyo:

 

[avalontree]

woops

guess i missed the date!
wow, you're on top of this.