Splittail climbing question

[Nailsbeats]

Guys, I have a reacurring problem with the Petzl ball lock beaner on the end of my spliced eye splittail. I also have a swivel snap with a micro pulley on it clipped to the beaner.
I have one ring on my saddle bridge that has the rope clip from the end of the climbing line clipped to it, next to it is the splittail beaner with the micropulley. When I pull the climbing line down while ascending the beaner goes slack for a second and sometimes the beaner will lay sideways and side load. A couple pulls later and it will straighted itself giving me a little drop while it does. This just isn't right, the beaner is constantly changing position while I move around. How can I fix it? Should I get a picture?

 

[treemandan]

Guys, I have a reacurring problem with the Petzl ball lock beaner on the end of my spliced eye splittail. I also have a swivel snap with a micro pulley on it clipped to the beaner.
I have one ring on my saddle bridge that has the rope clip from the end of the climbing line clipped to it, next to it is the splittail beaner with the micropulley. When I pull the climbing line down while ascending the beaner goes slack for a second and sometimes the beaner will lay sideways and side load. A couple pulls later and it will straighted itself giving me a little drop while it does. This just isn't right, the beaner is constantly changing position while I move around. How can I fix it? Should I get a picture?

They have "traps" for that sort of thing or you could just use rubber O rings. Either is just a nickle.

 

[oldirty]

Guys, I have a reacurring problem with the Petzl ball lock beaner on the end of my spliced eye splittail. I also have a swivel snap with a micro pulley on it clipped to the beaner.
I have one ring on my saddle bridge that has the rope clip from the end of the climbing line clipped to it, next to it is the splittail beaner with the micropulley. When I pull the climbing line down while ascending the beaner goes slack for a second and sometimes the beaner will lay sideways and side load. A couple pulls later and it will straighted itself giving me a little drop while it does. This just isn't right, the beaner is constantly changing position while I move around. How can I fix it? Should I get a picture?

your using the small ring on the bridge?

can it. no good, for me at least. just clip both biners to your bridge. rope bridge now for you right?

thats what i did before i got the hitch climber.

when i was 2 binering that small ring that came with my saddle anytime i advanced the rope, same side loading thing would happen. and to go along with that pain in the stick, i also broke my right ring finger knuckle on it when i would advance the splittail. now that knuckle is a big swollen knuckle.
the splittail biner would smoke my knuckle on the advance. lol

i tell you to go to your bridge because this will allow the splittail biner to slide freely until you put your weight back on it with out side loading in the ring.

if you knotted your bridge outside the clevis' (just like donnyo's rope bridge...remember) then you should have no problems.

that small ring sucks.


good luck with it.

 

[oldirty]

you can also add a smaller shackle to the bridge and splittail biner to that. (dont forget the loctite)


that way when weighted and in position the biners are nice and tight together but not rubbing gates.

 

[oldirty]

but

most importantly get rid of those ball lock biners.......

 

[046]

two problems...

1. your termination knot should grab biner like a triple fisherman.
2. need to use a steel biner and/or an approved screw link like Maillon Rapide, that can withstand a side load.

have stopped using petzl ball lock for this application for this exact reason. petzl ball lock biner and other similar biners can fail if loaded sideways.

new regs require device that can withstand a sideload without failing and a termination knot that cinches.

Guys, I have a reacurring problem with the Petzl ball lock beaner on the end of my spliced eye splittail. I also have a swivel snap with a micro pulley on it clipped to the beaner.
I have one ring on my saddle bridge that has the rope clip from the end of the climbing line clipped to it, next to it is the splittail beaner with the micropulley. When I pull the climbing line down while ascending the beaner goes slack for a second and sometimes the beaner will lay sideways and side load. A couple pulls later and it will straighted itself giving me a little drop while it does. This just isn't right, the beaner is constantly changing position while I move around. How can I fix it? Should I get a picture?

 

[046]

shackles have been known to back out, even when loctited. NO way I'd trust one of these as part of my life line chain.

this probably falls under same category at using a bowline for a lifeline knot without backup. some folks have been doing it for 20+ years. bowline knots have been documented to fail. killing the user.

play it safe and use a Maillon Rapide screwlink instead.
http://www.karstsports.com/maillonrapide.html

you can also add a smaller shackle to the bridge and splittail biner to that. (dont forget the loctite)


that way when weighted and in position the biners are nice and tight together but not rubbing gates.

 

[(WLL)]

Guys, I have a reacurring problem with the Petzl ball lock beaner on the end of my spliced eye splittail. I also have a swivel snap with a micro pulley on it clipped to the beaner.
I have one ring on my saddle bridge that has the rope clip from the end of the climbing line clipped to it, next to it is the splittail beaner with the micropulley. When I pull the climbing line down while ascending the beaner goes slack for a second and sometimes the beaner will lay sideways and side load. A couple pulls later and it will straighted itself giving me a little drop while it does. This just isn't right, the beaner is constantly changing position while I move around. How can I fix it? Should I get a picture?

please post up a pic.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Here's what I got guys. The ring is a large aluminum not the small stock one. I have the steel snap on the climbing line, I like them for strength and ease of use. They also throw nice when going around a limb. I will get rid of that ball lock biner and throw on a steel double locking. The swivel snap for the pulley slides up and down on the biner getting into some compromising positions.

Oldirty, I have been busting my knuckles too on this setup, somethings gotta give. I have the double fishies tied right to both the loops on the saddle. I like this setup, no wear that I can see yet, everything stays tight. I am going to avoid shackles if I can. Hey, what's a hitch climber?

 

[(WLL)]

Here's what I got guys. The ring is a large aluminum not the small stock one. I have the steel snap on the climbing line, I like them for strength and ease of use. They also throw nice when going around a limb. I will get rid of that ball lock biner and throw on a steel double locking. The swivel snap for the pulley slides up and down on the biner getting into some compromising positions.

Oldirty, I have been busting my knuckles too on this setup, somethings gotta give. I have the double fishies tied right to both the loops on the saddle. I like this setup, no wear that I can see yet, everything stays tight. Hey, what's a hitch climber?

the eye looks a little small but you could try a grith hitch, i would recomend a more modern setup. i cant stand how the krabs smash together when advancing and side loading krabs is never safe.

 

[Nailsbeats]

WLL, what do you mean by the eye looks small?

That pic you gave me, when you have a limb in you climbing line loop to get around, do you pull what looks like an eye splice on the end of the climbing line off the krab, throw around the limb, and put back on. Is that how it works? Also what is that hitch, something fancy like a Distel?

That must be the Petzl swivel in that setup, thought about going with that but the guy at my arbor shop said it wouldn't do much.

 

[(WLL)]

WLL, what do you mean by the eye looks small?

That pic you gave me, when you have a limb in you climbing line loop to get around, do you pull what looks like an eye splice on the end of the climbing line off the krab, throw around the limb, and put back on. Is that how it works? Also what is that hitch, something fancy like a Distel?

That must be the Petzl swivel in that setup, thought about going with that but the guy at my arbor shop said it wouldn't do much.

the eye may not be small and just might be enough for a grith. you got it right when going around limbs. the hitch is nothing fancy but it is a distel. there are a few other knots you can use for this setup and some are fancy but imo the distel is plain and simple. there are pros and cons to this setup and many find it hard to use at first besause most use the hipthrust to go up and that dont work so hot,but there are also more modern ways of going up which imo are much faster and easer to get to the top. i think it is better to learn more ways than one to enter a tree and being versitle will also help out on many jobs and save much needed energy and allow you to get more work done with less effort.

 

[(WLL)]

Your bridge looks a bit long to me but it's a matter of taste. A shorter bridge would move all of that metal down a little further from your hands when advancing.

i find it most important to allways be able to get at your hitch

 

[(WLL)]

yo nails where the :censored: are your shackles to connect youe bridge to your saddle? imo that aint wize

 

[Nailsbeats]

Thanks Tree Co, I can adjust that in a snap. One tail is set and the other is long so I can play with the length. When I get it all sorted I will even the tails on the bridge up. I have been thinking it was a little long myself. Just measured and it was 12", shortened it to 8", it helps.

 

[Adkpk]

Get rid of the plastic ring on your climbing line. And use a grith hitch on the split tail. Worked for me with a little binner to hold them together, I don't get any more movement with the binners.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I shortened the bridge up and that helped. I also took off the ring and the ball lock, replaced the ball lock with a steel double lock and attached both snaps right to the bridge. This all seems better. I am now looking at the narrow side of the snaps when I climb instead of the broadside. Also, like Oldirty said, the splitail can float on the bridge when slacked. That helps it to not side load.

WLL, I took the shackles off. I have had people say it isn't good and others say it is better. I have been using it this way and checking for wear, but I don't see any sing of it. The nylon loops on the saddle lay one on top of the other and the Fish knot tightens down on them. They never seem to move.

I will get another picture in a minute or two.

I forgot the girth hitch on the split tail, I will get on it. The plastic ring, oh that would tighten that baby right up too, good advice.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Here's what I ended up with. I couldn't girth hitch my splittail so I took another piece I had and put a double fish on it. I also put my swivel snap for the micropulley in the knot with the krab. This is much better than what I had and gives me a lot of stroke on a bodythrust. I aint bustin my knuckles anymore either. I am satisfied with this for now. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I just pruned a tree that I had to ascend 55 feet on this setup. No hang ups at all. All is well. Again thanks for the input.

 

[oldirty]

shackles have been known to back out, even when loctited. NO way I'd trust one of these as part of my life line chain.

this probably falls under same category at using a bowline for a lifeline knot without backup. some folks have been doing it for 20+ years. bowline knots have been documented to fail. killing the user.

play it safe and use a Maillon Rapide screwlink instead.
http://www.karstsports.com/maillonrapide.html

nothing wrong with them i guess. thanks