Splitter Control Valve Shooting Fluid

[Firewoodster]

While splitting firewood this morning the lever on the control valve became difficult to move. Then I noticed hydraulic fluid shooting out the back of the valve on the return stroke.
The valve appears to be a CROSS, Model BC........I went to the CROSS Manufacturing web site and found the following information: Single Spool, manually adjustable, built-in pressure compensated priority type flow control, open center, 30 gpm, 3000 psi.

A friend of mine built this splitter several years ago. The cylinder is off of a bulldozer. The psi I don't know. The splitter wedge is a cut down dozer blade 12" long. It's welded to the end of the beam and works real well for the big diameter logs. I'm only running a 6.5 hp motor on it.


Can anyone tell me what's going on with this valve?

Rick

 

[mga]

i also looked at their web site hoping they might have a pdf file of the valve available...i guess not. they don't even show a parts diagram. sounds like the seals are worn inside, but that's just a guess. if they had a diagram of the valve we'd be able to tell more.

did you request one from them? prince makes some good control valves...at least mine hasn't failed me yet.

 

[Patrick62]

Spool valve

I have a small splitter that also uses a Cross valve.
Similer in design to the Prince stuff. They all use a "spool" which in simplistic terms is a hunk of steel shaft with large grooves machined into it. The body of the valve has passages cast into it in correct places.

The tail cap is not supposed to ever see oil, much less under pressure! What is hiding under that cap is a interesting spring bolted to the end of the spool, centering it in neutral.

My guess is that something broke (cracked??) that is allowing pressure to fill the tail cap. Dis-assemble it as you have nothing to lose. when removing it from the machine keep ideas in your head about how long the hoses are, and what would be needed to install a new valve.

My $0.02 worth :biggrinbounce2:

-Pat

 

[Firewoodster]

Can either of you recommend a reasonable priced control valve to replace this one?
I'd like to have one that will return automatically.




2 HUSKY 36's and soon a 262XP....."EXCITED"

 

[ASETECH]

Valve Repair

The valve you have probably would not be that hard to repair. Take it apart and take a pick and dig the o rings out. A john deere, case, or caterpillar dealer will be able to match up your old o rings with new ones. (If they are willing to work). There is an auto cycling valve on ebay right now with a link to a supplier. It's expensive though. (circa $300). Check out baum hydralics they may have a kit to rebuild your valve, they for shure have new ones.

 

[mga]

northern has several to choose from. this one has a detent:


http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200311693_200311693

 

[Firewoodster]

I will tear into it today.
I hate to sound REALLY DUMB, (but on this subject I am), but what is "detent" referring to in a control valve?
I gotta' get this baby strokin' as people are calling for firewood.


Rick

 

[CylinderService]

You've probably found that the o-ring around the spool is shot. Maybe the spool is rusted or rough near the end too. You can clean up the spool & replace the o-ring, but it will probably never be perfect again. I think it's a -214 size o-ring. Make sure it's seated fully into the housing before you bolt stuff back together. Like others have said, there are better valves for splitters. I think Prince is the best because we sell them.
But you can sure make your valve good enough to work at least temporarily.
Good luck!

 

[sawinredneck]

Sounds like the seals are out Rick, pretty easy fix really. Take the control handle off remove the two allen head screws on the front and carefully reomve the front cover. Not sure on the crosses, but the spool should just slide out the front. All that seals the spool is two little seals, one on each end. They may be o-rings or they may be plastic seals. Carefully remove them with a pick, so they can be sized and about any hydralic supply co. should be able to match them up, cross is a pretty common manufacture. Now what else to check: Look for cracks or damage to the spool. Any cracks or dentsand the spool is junk and it might be best to get a new valve. Another thing to look at, some of the newer valves have a set screw in the back of the spool, under that is a plastic seal that is know to leak. It is a plug from where they cross drill instead of casting them (cheaper to manufacture).
If that spool has to come out the back, be VERY carefull taking the cap off the back, there is a spring washer and two ball bearings in there for the detent that can be a real PITA to get back together if it falls apart!!
The seals shouldn't cost more than $20 vs. the $180 for a new valve!!
Good luck, it's not rocket science, just go slow and watch all the parts when you take it apart!
Hope you have better luck with the 262 than I did!!!
Andy

 

[Firewoodster]

THANK'S Guys! You all have me feeling better about this situation. It is really great to have pros to help in times like this.
I LOVE this site................
I'm gonna' fix the valve tomorrow one way or the other.
I'll keep you posted on this project.

Andy your $$$$$ is on the way. THANX!

Rick

2 HUSKY Model 36's, 1 Broken down Splitter and soon to own a
"Redneck" HUSKY 262XP ..............LOL

 

[Firewoodster]

Well I did it. I took the valve apart this morning and found pieces of debris in the valve ball ( I guess that's what it's called). It doesn't look like the o ring or the spool are bad. As far as I (my eye) could tell all was good except for the debris. so I put it back together with no problem and it is still shooting fluid out the back.
So I removed the unit and actually found some numbers # on the bottom.
I stand corrected. It is NOT a CROSS Model BC, but a Model BA. Also has the following numbers
4185
-17-
1Z0048
I'm assuming the the third number is a serial number.

Anyway, If I can't get this deal turned around pretty quick, I'll have no choice but to purchase a new valve.
So give me your input on which Prince to get.
Do I need to install a filter also and if so in what location? (in or out side)
And should I purge the system and start with fresh fluid after all is installed?
Boy I'm just full of questions.
Are we havin' FUN yet? LOL

Rick

 

[CylinderService]

Rick,
I can fax you a parts sheet for the Cross BA valve if you still want to fix it. There may be more seals than the spool o-ring depending on which BA valve you have. As for the Prince valve, they make one specifically for logsplitters. We call it a 20-3001, and it has the automatic detent for the return. It's used on a lot of commercial splitters. If you get me your fax No. I'll send you more info on it too.
Filtration: you should have a strainer on the suction side (between the tank & the pump) and a 10 micron filter on the return side (between the valve & the tank). Filters on the suction side are hard on the pump.

Don the Hydraulics Guy