SRT Split-tail?

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Garden Of Eden

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So, I've gotten really comfortable with climbing on the blakes and a VT. I love the split tail idea, however. I'm looking for more versatility, so, what I was thinking was to set up my main line, like an SRT. Then instead of ascenders, using a prussik, and a split tail. Does that make sense? It looked and felt safe up to about 15 feet. I got that high, and thought, "someone else has to be doing this. lol"

I'm wondering if this will actually save my main line, make it last longer, or not? Also, seems like once i tie in to the tree, once aloft, i could redirect my main line somewhere else. Anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, reasons I should never do this again? lol

Thanks everyone

Oh, I was thinking Bee-line, for the split tail, and and 8mm prussik loop as it won't be life-support.

Jeff
 
I thought the main SRT thing to remember was to NOT use them for going down?

Smart way to use hitches for SRT instead of mechanical ascenders is to use two, just as you'd use two ascenders, one backs the other. So... bearing that in mind, you could descend on that system by down climbing with the hitches, the same way as you can with a pair of ascenders. A very slow way to go down but it can be done. I think everyone is aware (or should be) that rappelling on a hitch SRT doesn't work very well.
-moss
 
So, I've gotten really comfortable with climbing on the blakes and a VT. I love the split tail idea, however. I'm looking for more versatility, so, what I was thinking was to set up my main line, like an SRT. Then instead of ascenders, using a prussik, and a split tail. Does that make sense? It looked and felt safe up to about 15 feet. I got that high, and thought, "someone else has to be doing this. lol"

I'm wondering if this will actually save my main line, make it last longer, or not? Also, seems like once i tie in to the tree, once aloft, i could redirect my main line somewhere else. Anyone have any thoughts, suggestions, reasons I should never do this again? lol

Thanks everyone

Oh, I was thinking Bee-line, for the split tail, and and 8mm prussik loop as it won't be life-support.

Jeff

It works but is a very slow way to climb SRT. If you have the time, it works. Both of your hitch connections to the rope should be life support rated.
-moss
 
Smart way to use hitches for SRT instead of mechanical ascenders is to use two, just as you'd use two ascenders, one backs the other. So... bearing that in mind, you could descend on that system by down climbing with the hitches, the same way as you can with a pair of ascenders. A very slow way to go down but it can be done. I think everyone is aware (or should be) that rappelling on a hitch SRT doesn't work very well.
-moss


I think I get your idea. So, I would need two(2) split-tails. Basically, one on top of the other, right? I don't mean close enough to jam. And yes, rapelling on SRT without a gri-gri- or figure 8 sucks. lol

I guess the main reason for the question is I'm buying new rope, and am thinking about SRT. I kinda like it's advantages. However, I have arbormaster now, and it's "ok" to work with, I love the way most of the other stuff feels and works. I'm trying not to reduce my arbormaster to "play-rope."

Any preferences on SRT ropes. I have a left and right hand ascender, both petzl, but they're rock type. They look and feel the same, are they? I wasn't aware of a difference.

Thanks everyone

Jeff
 
Couple things to think about, I'm new to SRT (been at it for a few months).

I've noticed that my ascenders are destroying my rope. And by destroying, I don't mean in the literal sense but you can definitely tell the difference over the last few months on the "picking" of the outer sheath of my rope since I started using a hand ascender more often.

I purchased a right handled ascender and wish I had gotten a left handled as I'm using a modified rope walker with a foot strap on my left foot, so the crossing is annoying.

You should really go for something less than 1/2 inch if you want to use SRT as your ascenders will work much better the smaller the diameter of line you use. I've used lava and velocity for srt. Velocity worked better but I don't like climbing on it as much as lava so that's what I've used for most ascents.

Practice makes perfect. Without a chest box/croll, its very awkward to get into the system. I've gotten alot better but still think I may have to buy some more stuff (croll, left ascender) before I'd be really happy with my setup. I'm contemplating just buying an ascentree and returning to footlocking.


Good luck
 
1/2 inch NE safety blue works fine in my cmi ascenders and Pantin. It is true that small picks do show up on the rope after a lot of use but they don't affect the rope much, IMO.

I'm glad someone brought that up. A rock gym near me allows some guys to use ascenders on certain ropes, and I've noticed the little "picks." I'm trying to avoid that if at all possible, and I was really trying to see a hard advantage to not using the ascenders. I have them, but haven't used 'em enough I'm sure.
I have a few questions about SRT and would really like to pick someones brain, but also don't want a thread to drag on and on. I've watched some of Moss' youtube vids, that guy is imaginative. I love it.

Thanks for the help guys.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the comments about my videos. As far as ascenders picking the rope goes, some brands of ascenders have more aggressive teeth than others. The Petzl Ascensions and Croll have long downward facing teeth, the CMI's have much less aggressive teeth. I climb on Petzl ascenders. You have to pay attention to how you take the ascender off the rope, that's where most picking happens, you move the ascender up about an inch as you're opening the cam, no picking will happen. I always climb with a Pantin when I'm climbing DdRT, same thing, make sure the ascender is not loaded when you take it off the rope otherwise it's pickville. Once you figure it out you won't even think about it.

For SRT the super low stretch statics like Sterling HTP and NE Ropes KMIII have exceptionally durable covers, they seem very resistant to picking. The more semi-static arb ropes are softer on the cover and require a little more care when you're taking the ascender off the rope.
-moss
 
Thanks for the comments about my videos. As far as ascenders picking the rope goes, some brands of ascenders have more aggressive teeth than others. The Petzl Ascensions and Croll have long downward facing teeth, the CMI's have much less aggressive teeth. I climb on Petzl ascenders. You have to pay attention to how you take the ascender off the rope, that's where most picking happens, you move the ascender up about an inch as you're opening the cam, no picking will happen. I always climb with a Pantin when I'm climbing DdRT, same thing, make sure the ascender is not loaded when you take it off the rope otherwise it's pickville. Once you figure it out you won't even think about it.

For SRT the super low stretch statics like Sterling HTP and NE Ropes KMIII have exceptionally durable covers, they seem very resistant to picking. The more semi-static arb ropes are softer on the cover and require a little more care when you're taking the ascender off the rope.
-moss

Thanks for doing the pricey research for us! I really appreciate it. I've noticed the same thing about removing the ascenders. I've never climbed with a Pantin, is it really worth it?

I was watching your traverse video with the foot slingshot, (beautiful) and was curious, the bowline on the delta, could you climb like that?
 
the prussic knot you are using is basically a version of the taut line it is all i have ever used. just make sure you dress it each time before you weight it and ive never had a problem. best part is if you add a micro-pulley you can accend and take the slack out of the rope with one hand..
 
the prussic knot you are using is basically a version of the taut line it is all i have ever used. just make sure you dress it each time before you weight it and ive never had a problem. best part is if you add a micro-pulley you can accend and take the slack out of the rope with one hand..

Hmmm...not quite sure I follow. Where is the prussik, and pulley?
 
youve go your main climb line, and you use a split tail rope clipped to your saddle/harness. tie your prussic or tautline with the end of your split tail on main line dont forget a safety knot run the main line through the micro pulley which is right under the prussic or split tail. as you climb the tree pull main line up. i guess its kinda hard to explain....
 
youve go your main climb line, and you use a split tail rope clipped to your saddle/harness. tie your prussic or tautline with the end of your split tail on main line dont forget a safety knot run the main line through the micro pulley which is right under the prussic or split tail. as you climb the tree pull main line up. i guess its kinda hard to explain....

Nope...I got it...:) does it really make that big a difference?
 
what are we talking about the pulley??

it all really depends on your style and what you like some people like minimal gear while in the tree, it always nice to have that free hand if you need it i would say spend the 20 bucks try it out and see if you like it, if not youve got i micro pully which you can always use i like to use them on my lanyard to that way i can thighten the up with the prussic one handed
 
also IMO i prefer new england ropes to samson and some of the others they have a better feel when new, like they are already broken in, I now use new englands tachyon and i love it, the blue streak i have took over a year to really "break in"
 
Own my own tree service. I'm in Flint area. You?

im a free lancer i guess i own my own tree service but its alone ive got a group of people who i will hire to work with that are experienced, and i have other big name services who hire me to climb form time to time im in the lansing area, holt to be exact
 

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