SRT to DDRT switchover pointers

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monkeylove

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I am looking for ideas and pics of how your harness is rigged. I climb both SRT & DDRT depending on my mood that day, I am a rec climber who only works on his own trees. With 1 quick link on my Tree Fox saddle all the biners crowd each other and make it hard to get the SRT biner out of the way when I put weight on my lanyard. Right now I use the following techniques, feel free to comment on this too....SRT line with bowline noosed up around limb, climb to just below limb. Attach lanyard around limb and connect to me, take out slack via Blakes hitch and lower myself until SRT line is free. Untie SRT line, feed through Cambium, place over branch and attach to top of Unicender. Tighten up on DDRT line and release lanyard. Does this sound about right, and help with all the stuff in the way. Lol. Like I mentioned, I don't need it for work puposes, I just think a man should learn all the techniques not just the one that workes today. There is always a tomorrow to deal wth. Thanks guys, and a big thanks to the Pro Arborists for sharing your knowledge.#
 
I rarely run up a running bowline to my target branch for several reasons, finding a ground tie off more convenient. One(of several)reasons why I don't like doing it like that is you have to hang off your lanyard to reposition.. Most harnesses have the D rings that don't really support your body and it puts a lot of stress on your body, unlike a bridge that spreads the weight to your legs. With a ground tie off you can reposition using both your lanyard and SRT line, pulling up the hanging end and reposition it where you want it. If you want to switch to double rope just tie a biner to the end and pull out the slack.
I find it easier to just use two ropes. I often carry a shorter thicker rope set up for ddrt. I use a hitch climber pully on my DDRT set up so I only have one biner attached to my rope bridge and one biner attached to a ring on the rope bridge for my SRT.
I find it a pain trying to isolate a single branch, that's one of the pluses of SRT. You can shoot over the whole tree and tie off the end, and your set to go
 
Ditto Beastmaster. Lots of reasons NOT to run the bowline all the way up to the tie in point. Only one reason I know of to do it- requires less rope. Once in the crown, rather than rig a separate Ddrt line I have started going to a RADS off of my SRT line if I am not using a saw. If I am running a saw I go to the separate "Spyder" line for Ddrt to reduce the risk of an accidental nick or wear on my HTP (SRT) line. That way I take the risks on a shorter, less expensive rope, preserving my best rope for the long ascent.
 
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Sometimes i run a bulline up to time off. Work the tree on my way up. Lanyard in untie bulline clip other end of line to the ring my hitchhiker is on the work other side of tree. Or i position my line in top of tree in a spot that will safety hold my weight. Then tie off to base of the tree. Work the hole tree srt. I make sure when i set this up that my climbing line will not be in the way of any rigging or cutting that i will be doing.

I recommended getting a hitchhiker. Its the easiest way to switch from srt to drt. Extra gear i need. In a foot accender, hand accender with foot tether, and nylon loop with a. Beiner to clip in to my HHer so it self tends
 

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