starts, revs high, give gas, idles...

[ranchjn]

thats basically my problem. i am using a husky 365, and when i start it when its cold, the motor will start, but start reving itself up, causing the chain to spin if the brake isnt on. It keeps reving itself until i give it gas, and then it returns to the normal idling speed. This only happens when the engine is cold, and the problem disappears once the saw warms up. Does anyone have any advice to give me as to what could be causing the problem? the saw is a 2003 i think if that helps...

 

[Dale M]

Im not sure if this helps but I know my Husky has a fast idle setting and revs high untill I give it throttle,, once you pull the choke out the fast idle is On even if you push the choke in, it stays on untill you squesse the trigger,, try it with the saw off, pull the choke then push it back in then squesse the trigger, you can hear it click when the fast idle shuts off.. Not sure if thats your problem but maybe it will help.
Dale M

 

[lovetheoutdoors]

husky

I have a husky 345 and it does the same thing revs higher when its cold ....then idles down...i dont think theres anything wrong with it...husky just wants to run wide open

 

[SawTroll]

Like Dale said.
It is perfectly normal that the chain moves when the high idle starting position is used, and hitting the throttle is the prescribed way of getting the rpms down to idle.
It is not a Husky specialty - has been that way on all saws I have used.

Most user manuals also tell you to use the high idle position when the saw is warm, but that should not be necessary on a well tuned saw, unless it has been sitting for some minutes since the last use.

If the saw runs at ever increasing rpms, there is a problem though.....

 

[ranchjn]

If the saw runs at ever increasing rpms, there is a problem though.....

yes that is my problem. My stihl doesnt do it at all. The problem is when i start the cold saw, the engine starts idling normally and then it just starts reving itself up which means that the rpms obviously increase. If the chain brake isnt on, the chain starts spinning at increasing speeds. Its not dangerous if you expect it and know how to deal with the problem, but i think it would be scary for someone who doesnt really know how to operate a saw if the chain starts spinning with increasing speed without the users finger on the accelerator. Anyways, i took the saw partially apart and checked some stuff. The saw is dirty with sawdust, but i dont think that would really cause the problem. any ideas?

 

[spacemule]

Just a guess, try richening the idle screw. Cold air has more oxygen than warmer air, so it will be slightly leaner when cold. At least that's my perception.

 

[ranchjn]

Just a guess, try richening the idle screw. Cold air has more oxygen than warmer air, so it will be slightly leaner when cold. At least that's my perception.

i agree with cold air containning a higher percentage of oxygen because it is denser, but how am i suppose to get cold air into my saw? its not like i want to bolt up a K&N cold air intake system to my chainsaw... I have tried playing around with the idle screw, but nothing has changed. I just dont understand why the thing revs uncontrollably when its cold. my only thinking is that the throttle maybe gets stuck each time? the trottle plate seems to be working fine in the carb and everything seems ok. whatever i am just going to rip the entire thing apart when i get a chance and go through each bit...

 

[Lakeside53]

yes that is my problem. My stihl doesnt do it at all. The problem is when i start the cold saw, the engine starts idling normally and then it just starts reving itself up which means that the rpms obviously increase. If the chain brake isnt on, the chain starts spinning at increasing speeds. Its not dangerous if you expect it and know how to deal with the problem, but i think it would be scary for someone who doesnt really know how to operate a saw if the chain starts spinning with increasing speed without the users finger on the accelerator. Anyways, i took the saw partially apart and checked some stuff. The saw is dirty with sawdust, but i dont think that would really cause the problem. any ideas?

Air leaks in the intake , impulse, seals or where ever can give the symptoms you describe, but first look for mechanical issues like throttle linkage binding, shaft wear in the carb, etc. Look in the carb and note the position of the throttle plate both before and after you throttle it up - it should snap nicely back to "almost" closed. If it sticks even a little, it will rev up under no load.

 

[clearance]

There is nothing wrong with your saw, its just the way it is, most do it.

 

[ranchjn]

There is nothing wrong with your saw, its just the way it is, most do it.

no it isnt something isnt right. does the chain on your saw start spinning faster and faster out of control when you arent on the trottle?? come on now... :bang: my chain has been properly adjusted. my stihl ms 210 doesnt have this problem and the husky use to not have this problem...

 

[Freakingstang]

do you apply the choke right before this unnecessary reving takes places?

 

[ranchjn]

do you apply the choke right before this unnecessary reving takes places?

yes i did, because the engine was cold and i wanted to get a rich fuel mixture. I took the carb apart and the trottle plate seems to work fine. how would severly constricting air from passing through the venturi with the fuel cause uncontrollable reving? sorry about posting this so much, its not a big issue but its just annoying that i cant figure it out...

 

[clearance]

Ranch-I have been using Husky saws for 20 years, 266xp, 272xp, 288xp, 394 xp, 371xp, 2101xp, 357xp, 365, 61 thats about all I can remember for now and they all have this "problem" what more can I say.

 

[spacemule]

My Husky experience is limited to a couple of 272's and a 394. None of them race when cold. A racing engine is usually a sign of a lean condition. I probably run my saws a little richer than most.

 

[Freakingstang]

hmm, trying to think how to word this

When you pull the choke lever out, there is a linkage in the choke/throttle assy that moves the throttle blade and will keep it there until the throttle is pressed to release it. Next time, try choking it until it pops, then press the choke lever back in (no choke) and hit the throttle to release the high idle before starting the saw. Then start. It should idle at normal speeds, unless you have a major air leak, then the saw will rev uncontrollably.

 

[ranchjn]

Ranch-I have been using Husky saws for 20 years, 266xp, 272xp, 288xp, 394 xp 2101xp, 357xp, 365, 61 thats about all I can remember for now and they all have this "problem" what more can I say.

sorry i didnt mean to get angry at you... did you experience this when the saws were new? I cant believe that there is some mechanical setting that the factory installs which causes the saw to rev without applying the throttle whenever the engine is cold. My bet is that the little plastic trottle pulley needs to get oiled or something because it is sticking, but i have no way of checking that. i just find it extremely wierd and believe that there is a mechanical failure somewheres in the saw...

 

[spacemule]

sorry i didnt mean to get angry at you... did you experience this when the saws were new? I cant believe that there is some mechanical setting that the factory installs which causes the saw to rev without applying the throttle whenever the engine is cold. My bet is that the little plastic trottle pulley needs to get oiled or something because it is sticking, but i have no way of checking that. i just find it extremely wierd and believe that there is a mechanical failure somewheres in the saw...

Yes, most saws do have a half throttle catch that doesn't release until you pull the throttle trigger. This makes them easier to start. You're supposed to blip the throttle as soon as it's running. It's really quite simple.

 

[ranchjn]

hmm, trying to think how to word this

When you pull the choke lever out, there is a linkage in the choke/throttle assy that moves the throttle blade and will keep it there until the throttle is pressed to release it. Next time, try choking it until it pops, then press the choke lever back in (no choke) and hit the throttle to release the high idle before starting the saw. Then start. It should idle at normal speeds, unless you have a major air leak, then the saw will rev uncontrollably.

wow thank you i think that worked... i just started the saw like that and it seemed fine, but i couldnt leave it running for long since i dont want to piss of the neighbors. is there a way to adjust the high idle? still though, i thought the purpose of an idle, whether high or low, was to run at a constant rpm. The problem i was having was the saw was actually accelerating all by myself without my input. Anyways, i will give it a shot tomorrow and see what happens. thanks again!

 

[clearance]

Ranch-no biggie, I guess I started running saws when I was too young to think about stuff like that. Spacemule is right, I just blip the throttle but this doesn't always make it calm down. My Stihl MS200T does this sometimes too, I put the chain brake on after blipping the throttle because I am climbing. My advice would be to start the saw, blip the throttle to calm it down, sometimes at this point the chain will spin around slowly so put on the brake. If it isn't o.k. after a minute or so then something is wrong.

 

[ranchjn]

check out the spring attached to the top left hand side of the carb (which attaches to the white plastic throttle pulley). Could the saw be blocking the spring and thus not allowing the trottle pulley to return to its original position, thus causing the excessive revving? just an idea...