Statocharged Motor??????????

[JUDGE1162]

I have a 455 rancher (I know this Site is for the big boys, but this is the saw I have) I was looking to do some mods on the saw but I was told that the 455 Rancher is a statocharged motor and also the crankcase is split at the bearings, so the compression can not easily be raised.

SO my question is what is a statocharged motor?

Why is the crankcase being split at the bearings a bad thing?

Please help a newbie, and buy a bigger saw is not going to help me now.

What mods can be done to this saw to get the most out of it. Has anyone done a muffler mod on a 455 Rancher to let me know how they did it or at least what to expect once I start.

Thanks

Judge

 

[Woodie]

I have a 455 rancher (I know this Site is for the big boys, but this is the saw I have)

Judge,

I can't help you with your issue, but wanted to comment on your opening line.

Ever heard the phrase "Run what you brung?" People buy saws for all kinds of reasons, and budget is usually the biggest constraint. Otherwise we'd all have 3120s/880s/7900s. (I'm talking specifically about those of us who do NOT have all three...) (Or even one...)

Nothing to be ashamed about with your 455. There are plenty of people on this forum running Pull-Ons, and they probably run 'em pretty successfully. So run what you brung!

 

[JUDGE1162]

Thanks wood_newbie, I seem to get a lot of flack from people on chainsaw forums for asking questions about a homeowner saw on a pro-forum(not so much here which is why I visit here more than other forums). For me it was the most bang for my buck. The biggest, most powerful saw I could afford (of at least for the amount of money I willing to part with), Yes I could have gotten a saw with the same power that was a pound or two lighter only if I spend an extra $100 bucks but hell for just a few hundred more past that I could have gotten a 372, it never seems to end, I am a homeowner and I only cut firewood and do some small clearing. It is like having a Pro-stock car to drive to work, hell it would be nice it would be cool but I really don't need a car that does 200 mph, for me a car that can do 100 mph and gets 20 mpg and is easy to use is a whole lot more useful to me. Same thing with a chain saw I would love to have a 3120XP but I don't really need it. The big knock on the 455R is its weight to power ratio, but to me as a big guy that will only going to be using the saw on weekends for a couple months a year the weight was not the biggest issue for me and the power was.

I like my saw, yeah I wish if was a bit more powerful but I know very few guys that wouldn't want a little more power, speed, or torque from their saw, that is why I want to modifly the saw to get a little more power a little more torque in the cut.

 

[Woodie]

I'm with you there, Judge. Power-to-price seems to get short shrift to power-to-weight. And for the pros, guys that work with their saws every day, that's the way it should be.

But most of the guys here understand the term "homeowner," and there's plenty that will recommend against spending the money for a pro saw if you're truly an occasional user. The beauty of this forum, I have found, is that the pros will help us homeowners just the same.

Good luck on your mods...I'm looking at getting my Jonnsy done, too!

 

[computeruser]

I like my saw, yeah I wish if was a bit more powerful but I know very few guys that wouldn't want a little more power, speed, or torque from their saw, that is why I want to modifly the saw to get a little more power a little more torque in the cut.

A thought: Instead of tearing your saw open to get it to pull a chain faster, why not just work on making a faster chain for your saw to pull?

Here's an example of how spending a little time (and no money) on a chain produced a much faster chain. I made no changes in sharpening technique (ground round with an Oregon 511 using standard pink grit wheels), but I did grind off some of the back of the cutter. The difference was pronounced - nearly 1 second faster (3.84seconds versus 4.78seconds) for two cuts in 8x8 poplar. I also made a few cuts in bigger wood (20" red oak) and it felt faster than the standard chain. Though this will never be a race chain without a lot more work (and square-filing it), I don't think that this modification is inappropriate for a work chain that is durable and easy to maintain.

After and before:

 

[JUDGE1162]

What is the reason that cutting the back of the chain off makes it cut faster

Doesn't this cut down on chain life, at some point this would make the chain too thin to use earlier than normal right????

 

[buck futter]

compuser
You might make that chain even faster by cleaning out the gullets I can post a pic when I get home, but you are absolutely right a sharp chain is more important than a powerfull motor



Judge.

I am sure if you asked the person that told you that stuff they would have let you know. The split at the bearings makes it tougher to raise the compression without a lot of machine work, and compression is a big part of the power gains in a saw. the reason manufacturers do this is for a lower cost but it is what separates pro from non pro in my mind.

The strato charged engine by itself can be modified but frankly you really need to think about what you are doing then, other strato engines are the husky 570/575 and the stihl 441 I am sure there are more. It basically pushes the exhaust out with air and then puts in the fuel charge the net result is lower fuel consumption and lower emissions both very good things.

any more questions please feel free to ask.

 

[computeruser]

What is the reason that cutting the back of the chain off makes it cut faster

Doesn't this cut down on chain life, at some point this would make the chain too thin to use earlier than normal right????

The idea behind removing the back of the cutter is to allow the chips to get out from under the cutter faster. As for durability, I'm sure that more extreme tweaking will reduce longevity to some degree. But honestly, who cares? When a 20" loop of WoodsmanPro or Oregon LG costs $11, I really can't see cost as a consideration.

You might make that chain even faster by cleaning out the gullets I can post a pic when I get home, but you are absolutely right a sharp chain is more important than a powerfull motor

Yeah, I should get in there and clean 'em out, that makes a nice bit of difference. I'm just lazy, I really get nothing out of grinding chains. I've got a nice loop of square race chain that is a sight to behold, gullets cleaned out, rakers thinned, and the chain chassis relieved some. The amount of space for chips to escape is something else.

 

[buck futter]

It sounds like you have a better handle on it than I do. I need to get some factory square for a reference and start filing square. I hope I came across alright, just trying to add what little I know.


Buck

 

[computeruser]

It sounds like you have a better handle on it than I do. I need to get some factory square for a reference and start filing square. I hope I came across alright, just trying to add what little I know.


Buck

Shoot, I'm no expert! I've gotten some helpful pointers from Rick Helsel and Dave Neiger at our last two Michigan GTGs, that's all. I was gifted the loop of square race stuff to use as inspiration for my future handiwork; I'm going to stick with round ground for now. It is a fascinating study, though, to see what can be done with a grinding wheel and a Dremel. The difference in smoothness and chip flow is impressive, especially on a saw that can put it to good use! It should be a fun winter project to work on some loops for the spring GTGs and all.

 

[tomdcoker]

Stratocharged Motor

I have posted this before and got mixed replies, but one way to increase your power is soak your chain overnight in bar oil. Then let it drain before you use it. If you have not tried this you would not believe how much smoother and easier the chain runs even with a new chain. Tom

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I did grind off some of the back of the cutter.

Can you give us a view of your chain from the topside? Looks easy to do.

Ian

 

[buck futter]

I have posted this before and got mixed replies, but one way to increase your power is soak your chain overnight in bar oil. Then let it drain before you use it. If you have not tried this you would not believe how much smoother and easier the chain runs even with a new chain. Tom

Tom,
I know oregon recommends doing this with every new chain. They say it is to reduce the initial stretch. I wouln't doubt it smoothes things out as well

buck

 

[GPH85]

Computeruser... Anyway we could get some good pictures of the loop of chain you were given?

Judge, you should be able to go back a few pages and find some info on muffler mods. I think there was a topic on it a couple of weeks ago with some very nice pictures.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[GPH85]

OK, it was on the 3rd page and it also seems that you were the last guy to post on it, so I guess you already knew about it, but I'll post the link anyhow

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=36541