Stihl 010 quits running when hot. New plug and coil.

[Mpbowyer]

My ~20-year-old Stihl 010 runs perfect, for about half a tank of gas. Then I'll shut it down to move a branch or something, and can't get it started again.

Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it'll start, but die if I give it any throttle.

Had the carb cleaned and adjusted at dealer.
Replaced the ignition coil and spark plug / wire.
Replaced the fuel filter.

I'm running the Stihl moto-mix premixed fuel for troubleshooting to make sure the 10% ethanol in my area isn't causing problems.

Any ideas?

 

[dsell]

How many pounds of compression does it have?

 

[Mpbowyer]

I don't have a tester, but it sure feels like it has good compression from the pull-chord. Definitely a "lumpier" pull than my 362 without using the decompression.

 

[dsell]

That's typically how a low compression two cycle reacts. I think it would be worth your time to find someone with a tester. Coils can open when they get hot, but you've already swapped it. Does it run good, idle good, plenty of power when it is running? Does this have points and condenser or electronic ignition? A condenser could be your culprit.

 

[Mpbowyer]

I'll have someone check compression.
It starts, runs, idles, and cuts great.

Ignition style is points and condenser. What would I look for to check if those were the culprit? I guess I could heat it up then pull the plug and check for proper spark.

 

[art75]

my ~20-year-old stihl 010 runs perfect, for about half a tank of gas. Then i'll shut it down to move a branch or something, and can't get it started again.

Let it sit for 15 minutes, and it'll start, but die if i give it any throttle.

Had the carb cleaned and adjusted at dealer.
Replaced the ignition coil and spark plug / wire.
Replaced the fuel filter.

I'm running the stihl moto-mix premixed fuel for troubleshooting to make sure the 10% ethanol in my area isn't causing problems.

Any ideas?

i had the same problems with my 011. I found a crake in the fuel line inside the tank. I replaced that, cleaned the filter. It worked better but still wouldn't start after being hot. Replaced the carb with a $ 40.00 rebuilt one and now it runs great. May be the carb even though it was
cleaned !!!

 

[sefh3]

NOt sure where you are at in NW Ohio but I'm in SE Michigan. Close to the Ohio line. If you want to bring that saw over, PM me.

 

[oldmar]

tank vent?

 

[Mpbowyer]

I might have a tank vent problem. If I run it for a few minutes then remove the fuel cap, I get what I think the scientific term for is "stinky leg". If I open it reaaaaal slow it'll hiss for 30 seconds letting out the built-up pressure.

Where is the tank vent, and how do I "clean it out" or otherwise fix it?

 

[Mpbowyer]

NOt sure where you are at in NW Ohio but I'm in SE Michigan. Close to the Ohio line. If you want to bring that saw over, PM me.

I'm headed by your college of choice in August. If the saw is still not sorted, you have a deal.

 

[mountainlake]

Dealer adjusted, make sure it's not running lean and getting too hot. If it screams give it more fuel on the high. Try another new plug making sure it's the right one. Plugged fuel filter or carb inlet screen. Plugged tank vent would create vaccume in the tank not pressure but try loosening the cap befrore it quits and see if it runs any longer. Steve

 

[Mpbowyer]

Well I checked further into the tank vent yesterday. Looks like somewhere along the lines someone just thought it was a leaky tube, and CAPPED IT behind the foam filter. I had some fuel line laying around, and make a little filter out of some microfiber cloth. I got a small job today (well a big {for me} job with lots of small cuts) so I'll see.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I have seen several dozen different home-brew vents on those. I guess nobody wants to pull that grimy little metal box, and terminate the vent by the clutch where it belongs. I think what the previous guy was trying to do was make a grub screw. These were used on many saws until the EPA had them put check valves on the vent. The problem is that you have to CUT THE HEAD OFF, for it to work. The air can escape around the threads of the screw (if it is not too tight in the fuel line.) I think the head of that screw was your problem. The factory grubs are nothing more than little pieces of machine threaded metal with a slot in one end. Looks like you have it figured out. I hope you're planning to tuck that nice mesh piece you made back up in there. The chain will have it ripped out in no time otherwise. If you get stuck, the little white Echo vents work well on just about everything.

 

[Fish]

I would say that it is likely ignition, pop on a trigger unit and do away with the points.

 

[Mpbowyer]

I got the saw running with the new vent, and was able to get it started (after many many pulls) hot, but it eventually wouldn't start anymore. It ran for about a half hour. Luckily, my neighbor gave me an 019T (with its own problems), so I used that for most of the work. There was no way I was going to limb pine at shoulder level with my 20" 362, my arms are small.

Next I have to make sure I set the gap properly on the coil. I have to find some flexible plastic that is the proper thickness.

I would say that it is likely ignition, pop on a trigger unit and do away with the points.

I've heard of, and looked into, doing this but I really don't know what I'd be doing. Is there an idiot-level walk-through somewhere of the procedure? I see that you buy the little $25 electronic module, and mount it inside the clutch cover somewhere, but not under the flywheel. Not sure I completely understand it, specifically the wiring. I guess I don't get the point of the points or module, doesn't the magnet passing by the coil create electricity for the spark by itself?

 

[Fish]

So who sold you a coil?

 

[Mpbowyer]

So who sold you a coil?

Bought it on ebay.

 

[Mpbowyer]

Now it won't start at all. This is getting interesting.

How many pounds of compression does it have?

I almost didn't believe it, but compression is good.

Checking my coil gap next, then I guess I'll replace the points with an electric module.