Stihl 012 AV Help (Oiling System & Spark Plug Wire)

[SunnyDaze]

Hello all.

I'm working on bringing my grandfather's 012 AV back to life. A few weeks ago I did a carb kit, fuel lines, air and fuel filters, a new plug, and a new chain. I got it running, tuned it, and did some cutting. I was quite satisfied with how it performed. It's oiling well and revving quickly.

Today I took the clutch cover back off as well as the starter housing. I cleaned everything thoroughly; removed / cleaned / oiled the spring, new starter rope, disassembled / cleaned / lubed the chain brake mechanism, and cleaned the spark arrestor screen / muffler. Tomorrow I'll clean what I can on the case.

I noticed that the spark plug wire has a crack near the cooling fins (see photo) on the cylinder. Is this anything to be immediately concerned about? What's the easiest fix for this?

The oiler works well, but, the oil pump leaks around the edges of the rubber vent cap for days after use (see photo). I want to remove the pump and service it. I'd like to do a new oil line while I'm in there. The oil outlet has a brass fitting that seems pressed into the case. Is there an internal nipple that the line slides onto? Does this brass fitting come out? Am I able to feed the oil line backward through the outlet hole (like an older Poulan) and attach the pump afterward or does the case have to be split to do the oil line?

Thanks in advance!

 

[happysaws]

Take the plug boot off, and shrinkwrap the plug wire.

Loosen the oil cap and relieve any accumulated pressure in the tank after cutting with the saw.

 

[SunnyDaze]

Take the plug boot off, and shrinkwrap the plug wire.

Loosen the oil cap and relieve any accumulated pressure in the tank after cutting with the saw.

Heat shrink? Good idea. I wonder if it'll stand up to contact with fuel or oil? Definitely worth a shot considering the alternatives.

While I do like the simplicity of loosening the oil cap, the saw will see semi-regular use. It sat for two decades after spending ten years on a farm. I'd really like to disassemble and clean the pump and replace a line that was installed during the Reagan administration.

 

[happysaws]

Heat shrink? Good idea. I wonder if it'll stand up to contact with fuel or oil? Definitely worth a shot considering the alternatives.

While I do like the simplicity of loosening the oil cap, the saw will see semi-regular use. It sat for two decades after spending ten years on a farm. I'd really like to disassemble and clean the pump and replace a line that was installed during the Reagan administration.

Heat shrink will stand up to fuel and oil.

At that location on the saw, it should never come into contact with any fuel it oil...

 

[Mad Professor]

I think the 009-012 saws have a different type of coil wire insulation due to the way it is routed around the cylinder?

Shrink wrap will help but you need to remove the plug boot or remove the wire from the coil. There is also a liquid di-electric "tape" that works well for insulation repairs, I'm not sure about heat resistance? I have used the liquid then wrapped the repair with some good electrical tape on other saws.

Maybe someone in the know can chime in whether these saws use a special heat resistant plug wire? And or better suggestions for repairs.

Your oil pump runs off an impulse from the crank through the case. The vent you pictured is the cover on the pump. When you pull the pump the oil line fits to the rear of it and connects inside to the outlet. I'm not sure if it's wedged in place at the outlet with the brass nipple?

Get yourself an IPL and service manual.

 

[SunnyDaze]

I think the 009-012 saws have a different type of coil wire insulation due to the way it is routed around the cylinder?

Shrink wrap will help but you need to remove the plug boot or remove the wire from the coil. There is also a liquid di-electric "tape" that works well for insulation repairs, I'm not sure about heat resistance? I have used the liquid then wrapped the repair with some good electrical tape on other saws.

Maybe someone in the know can chime in whether these saws use a special heat resistant plug wire? And or better suggestions for repairs.

Your oil pump runs off an impulse from the crank through the case. The vent you pictured is the cover on the pump. When you pull the pump the oil line fits to the rear of it and connects inside to the outlet. I'm not sure if it's wedged in place at the outlet with the brass nipple?

Get yourself an IPL and service manual.

I have the manual for the 010 / 011. It's basically the same. I can't find any information about the outlet and whether or not the brass fitting is pressed in or splitting the case is required to replace the oil line. The manual says to pull the line off of the fitting at the rear of the pump. Being that this line is approximately 30 years old I'm not so sure that's the best course of action. Even if it doesn't crumble while coming off there's a chance it may not be very snug while going back on.

The rubber vent cap is leaking a bit of oil around the edges (as opposed to through the center vent). New caps as well as gaskets are available.

I recently redid a Poulan 2300 AV. It uses a similar setup though much simpler. I was able to feed the line through the top hole where it oils the chain and attach the line to the rear of the pump afterward. My concern is that's not the case with this Stihl.

 

[HarleyT]

Why not just replace the wire?

 

[Mad Professor]

Why not just replace the wire?

Do they spec a different type of wire for those saws? It sure looks different and runs right along the cylinder fins.

 

[HarleyT]

The ipl shows the regular bulk ignition wire.

 

[SunnyDaze]

Here's what I did for the wire. So far so good.

1) Pulled the wire out of the boot (the vampire clip pulled out of the wire also)

2) Trimmed back the insulation to expose about 3/4 inch of the core

3) Applied one layer of heat shrink over the crack in the insulation and a second layer over the length of the wire from the screw clamp on the bottom of the case up to the tip of the wire where I stripped the insulation

4) Feed the newly insulated plug wire backward through the plug boot

5) Straightened out the vampire clip portion of the terminal

6) Removed the insulation and the spade portion from a wire connector (this leaves the metal cuff that the wires insert into)

7) Solder the spark plug core wire to the wire terminal

8) Pull the wire back through the boot and push the terminal into place at the bottom of the boot

9) Fire it up

As a positive coincidence, the heat shrink is more rigid than the wire insulation. As a result the wire now barely touches the cooling fins on the head (if at all)!

 

[JMP8562]

I know the post is from 2017 But hopefully someone can chime in on how the Oil line was replaced I have the 012 and the end of the oil line leaving the pump was deteriorated I was able to trim back enough but barely got the pump back in I know I have to replace the line any and all help would be much appreciated thanks