Stihl 017

[Fish_Sense]

Hi,

I have a Stihl 017 that I use for cleaning up trees around my lot. The trees are pretty small so this is all I need. A while back, I had the bar and sprocket replaced. I also got a new chain. Ever since, the saw cuts well for 5 or six blocks but then it just won't go through the wood. It doesn't sound like it is an engine problem. I had it to to dealers and they say it looks fine. A friend of mine tried it and said it seemed like the bar was wider then the chain, although we know that isn't it, that is how it feels. Anyway, I noticed last night that it doesn't seem to be oiling the chain. I cleaned it all up to make sure that the holes aren't blocked but it still doesn't oil. How do I get at the oiler on this saw? Is it behind the clutch like the bigger saws? Also, now I am going to be burning wood, so I will be cutting around 12 cords or so a year. It will be hardwood, mostly 12 - 18 inches in diameter, a few may be 24 inches. I want to block this stuff up. What should I be looking for in a saw to handle this type of task? Thanks

 

[Diesel JD]

Sounds like you have an oiler problem. You should make sure that the chain gauge and bar gauge match as that saw usually runs 3/8 Low ProfileX.043 gauge from teh factory, but can also run 3/8" Low pro X.050. If you have .043 on a .050 bar thatw ill cause a problem. I don't know much about the oilers on these things...hopefully someone else will help you. As far as a bigger saw, if you are going to be cutting only up to 18" blocks, you could go with an MS250 for economy or a 260 for a coniderably better albeit more expensive saw. If you are cutting up to 24" with any regularity we're back to the MS390 vs. 361 debate which has been hashed here over and over again, so I will just restate the consensus, the 390 is a great saw for firewood cutters, but if you are going to use the saw a bunch the few extra bucks on a 361 or 440 is well spent.

 

[sawn_penn]

Welcome to the site.

I have a 180 (018) pretty much the same saw.

Cuts well and then suddenly won't cut? Engine sounds OK? My first guess is that you are grounding the chain and it is suddenly blunt. It is amazing how fast a chain goes blunt when you clip the ground. Pretty well the tiniest nick of the ground and you will need to resharpen the chain. If the wood that you are cutting is exceptionally dirty, then you might find the same sort of thing too.

If the bar is the wrong width (gauge) then the chain isn't held laterally in place when you cut. Normally people with this problem find they can't cut straight cuts, rather than not being able to cut. The gauge of the bar and chain need to be the same.

I haven't gone looking for the oiler on my 180 yet, but behind the clutch would be where I'd be looking.

A bigger saw? I'd go for something around the 60cc mark. In Stihl, most people rave about their 361s. I have an 034, which evolved (eventually) into the 361 and I am really happy with this size saw. Although people bag them on this site, a 290/310 could be an economical alternative for a dozen face cords a year.

I have bigger saws, but they get heavy after a while. I'm really happy with the build quality of Husqvarna too.

Less than 50cc won't be that much of a change from the 017 (apart from it working, and all that... ), and more than 70cc will get heavy at the end of the day.

 

[046]

your stihl 017 is hopelessly undersized for job at hand. 017 is a homeowner saw designed for occasional use. trimming smaller limbs using a tiny pico chain.

asphmunt in this area use stihl 017 as their primary climbing saw.

MS 260 is the mininum size for what you describe if you keep your chain sharp!
MS 361 or another 60cc class saw like Husky 359 would do job you describe comfortably.

most on AS would be using their 72cc class saw like Husky 372 or MS 460 for job you described.

 

[sedanman]

The oiler on an 017 is pressed into the case from the bottom. It is not hard to do if you have the right tool but only the dealer is likely to have the tool.

 

[Lakeside53]

The oiler on an 017 is pressed into the case from the bottom. It is not hard to do if you have the right tool but only the dealer is likely to have the tool.

You can just use a long (72mm) 5mm bolt - screw it into the bottom of the pump and pull it out.

The pump almost never fails... it's often the plastic bore in the body that's been damaged by an eccentric clutch drum (from a bad bearing) or a clutch problem. Visual inspection of the pump surroundings will often tell you what's going on. Sometimes it's just blocked by junk, and flushing with gas or kerosene can clear it out.

 

[Fish_Sense]

Thanks guys. I'll try that. I do know the 017 isn't up to what I now need. My needs have recently changed because of switching to wood heat. I want my new saw to be something that will last. I live in Canada, and I have been looking around. The local Husky dealer recommended the Rancher 55, the 353 or the 359. Jonsered recommended the CS2150. Stihl, while I never got to speak with anyone, they have the MS260, MS270 and there is a MS361. So, I guess I have some researching to do. lol Why question I have is why is the MS270 cheaper then the MS260? Is it because it is heavier?

 

[sawn_penn]

The 260 is a professional model, built for use every day. The 270 is more of an "every other weekend" saw.

If you are cutting lots of 12-18" stuff, and you are keeping your 017, I'd buy a bigger saw.

 

[pinus]

Thanks guys. I'll try that. I do know the 017 isn't up to what I now need. My needs have recently changed because of switching to wood heat. I want my new saw to be something that will last. I live in Canada, and I have been looking around. The local Husky dealer recommended the Rancher 55, the 353 or the 359. Jonsered recommended the CS2150. Stihl, while I never got to speak with anyone, they have the MS260, MS270 and there is a MS361. So, I guess I have some researching to do. lol Why question I have is why is the MS270 cheaper then the MS260? Is it because it is heavier?

MS260 has a famous predecessor 026 which "name" makes its price relatively higer too. Surely it is wery good saw.
For non pro usage MS270 is enough and even more. Should last as pro being a littlebit heavier but has a very good antivibe. Mine has burned now over 200 tanks of fuel and no any signs of weariness. I had 026 on the past too.

 

[Fish_Sense]

Thanks everyone for your input. I have researched this and read many posts here. I am definately leaning towards the Husky 353. The main reason is there is a Husky dealer locally. It seems people like this saw. I just want to make sure I get a good saw that won't give me lots of problems. From the prices I was quoted, the 353 is $50 more then the 55 Rancher, but it seems to be worth the money. Actually, I would have thought there would have been more in the difference. The price I was quoted on the 55 Rancher might have been a little high. Thanks

 

[046]

fishsense, get a 359, it's built like a pro saw and not that much more...

in fact I've got a good clean Husky E-series 359 that's not being used. please PM if you are interested.

 

[Fish_Sense]

I thought the 353 was a pro saw. How do I tell if a saw is a pro saw? I am not that hung up on pro vs consumer but I want a saw that will last. I agree, the 359 is only about $50 more, but I think that might be too much saw for my needs.

 

[sawn_penn]

In theory the pro huskies have "xp" after their number, eg 385xp.

I think people pretty well think the 359 deserves the "xp", but doesn't have it.

 

[Fish_Sense]

Ok, in the literature the husky dealer gave me it says the 353 is a professional saw. I must say, it is all very confusing. Would the 359 be too much saw for me were the majorty on my wood would be 16" or under? only a few would go up to 24". It will all be hardwood though.

 

[sawn_penn]

Ok, in the literature the husky dealer gave me it says the 353 is a professional saw. I must say, it is all very confusing. Would the 359 be too much saw for me were the majorty on my wood would be 16" or under? only a few would go up to 24". It will all be hardwood though.

No, the 359 won't be too much saw. Depending upon your needs, it might be too much folding stuff though...

 

[Fish_Sense]

yeah, i agree. it is starting to get into a lot of folding stuff. Is the 359 that much better then the 353. I am really straying from my initial plan of buying a 55 Rancher. lol

 

[Fish_Sense]

Would a 346 XP make sense? I don't know how it compares in price or performance to the 353 though.

 

[sawinredneck]

Would a 346 XP make sense? I don't know how it compares in price or performance to the 353 though.

Don't get the 346 XP, it is comparable to the 260, not enough saw for what you are wanting to do. It looks good on paper though! The 353 is a good saw, but I would push you more to the 359. It is a little bigger and wieghs more. I learned, as most on here have also, buy just a little bigger thatn what you really need. The saw works less and so do you! Even with what you are talking about, I might even look for a 365 special, dealers around here couldn't hardly give them away because of there size being an intermeidiate saw. Great saws from what I've heard and you might be able to get one for right around dealer cost? Save a few bucks and get a bigger saw, how do you go wrong?

Just my .02,
Andy

 

[sawn_penn]

Go with what you are comfortable with. All the saws we are talking about now seem like great products.

Beware that everyone on this site will eventually try and talk you into a MS880/3120 !

If you are on this site there is never enough saw and never enough money....

 

[Fish_Sense]

I am beginning to see that! I guess I just want to make sure I end up with a decent saw that will last. I am not as concerned with how fast I can cut some of the bigger stuff as I am with getting a saw that will last. I don't think I'll be able to get another new saw past my wife for a while so I'll want it to last.

Thanks