Stihl 026 - carb/choke question

[Bobosocky]

When the choke switch is set to cold start, should the carb throttle shutter be slightly open (roughly half way between the warm start setting and being fully closed), or should the shutter be fully closed?

I took some pics to help explain what I'm asking:

Fully Closed shutter:

Slightly open shutter, it looks like this when I set the choke switch to cold start:

Warm Start setting, shutter is opened more than cold start.

Should the shutter be slightly open on cold start? I am having an issue where if my saw sits for a few months, it takes like 30 pulls to start. I can do 30 pulls on the 'cold start' choke setting, and not flood the engine. Eventually the engine sputters, then it fires up. I would think 10 pulls should flood the engine if the choke is working right.

The air filter looks ok, I am not sure how well a brand new OEM filter choke would seal off the air by comparison, though...

If the saw sits for a few days, it takes <5 pulls to start. If it sits for a few weeks, maybe 10.

Once the saw is started it runs perfect. If the saw is warm, it fires up in one pull just like it should.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

The opening you see is your idle setting. You probably need to buy a new kit for your carb and rebuild it so you can get it at the right tune for easier starting. Your ignition gap could be off too.

 

[Bobosocky]

Thanks Jim. I will read up on that. I haven't done small engine diagnosis/repair before, so I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

 

[merc_man]

Yup sounds like ya need a carb kit and a cleaning. The diaphram sound week.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[Bobosocky]

Just want to update this...

First, thank you guys for suggesting I put in a carb kit. I bought the K20-WAT, and also got the Walbro meter lever gauge. All in it was like $20. I also bought a new spark plug. I checked the ignition gap with a business card, and it was fine.

Took the carb apart... the metering diaphragm looked worn:

Underneath... the screen completely clogged with some white buildup. It was 100% covered with that gunk... it is flaking up because I started to take it out and then decided to take a pic. I can't believe the saw ran great once you would actually get it started...

Sprayed some carb cleaner on it, made sure I cleaned everything real good. Put it back together. The old spark plug was also in bad shape. Put a new NGK in.

2 pulls.. fired right up.

Thanks again.

 

[merc_man]

Good glad it workng for you.

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[Wood Doctor]

Just want to update this...

First, thank you guys for suggesting I put in a carb kit. I bought the K20-WAT, and also got the Walbro meter lever gauge. All in it was like $20. I also bought a new spark plug. I checked the ignition gap with a business card, and it was fine.

Took the carb apart... the metering diaphragm looked worn:

Underneath... the screen completely clogged with some white buildup. It was 100% covered with that gunk... it is flaking up because I started to take it out and then decided to take a pic. I can't believe the saw ran great once you would actually get it started...

Sprayed some carb cleaner on it, made sure I cleaned everything real good. Put it back together. The old spark plug was also in bad shape. Put a new NGK in.

2 pulls.. fired right up.

Thanks again.

That messed up clogged screen was probably causing 90% of your problem. BTDT. It's about the first thing I look for when the saw starts acting like it's starved for fuel. Good job and happy cutting. The 026 is a great little saw.

 

[HarleyT]

You should remove the needle/lever/spring and hold up to a light and make sure the passage under the screen isn't partially clogged when apart.

 

[Bobosocky]

You should remove the needle/lever/spring and hold up to a light and make sure the passage under the screen isn't partially clogged when apart.

Just saw this.. I replaced the needle and lever, and before installing the new one I held it up to a light to make sure the passage was clear. Also rain some carb cleaner through it.

The old needle tip had some red coloration on it. Kinda weird. I bought the saw in September or October. The guy that sold it to me said it was his dad's saw, and he thought it had a new plug, fuel lines, and carb kit... guess he was wrong about that. The saw runs like a bear, though.

 

[HarleyT]

The needle tips are coated, the rubber underneath used to be red, not sure about these days.....

 

[Whiskers]

Sounds like you got it worked out, but It could have been the air filter. In the 024/026 series the choke flap is inside the air filter and can go bad. A good way to test if the filter is causing the cold start issue is to remove the air filter and cover the carb opening with your hand while you pull it over. If it starts fine, it's probably the air filter.