stihl 028 cylinder bolts

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SAWMIKAZE

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I have a friend whos 028 just wont hold the cylinder bolts in..cleaned em good..blue loctite..and they still start to back out after a few tanks of fuel

Big t told me this morning that maybe a M5-20 would work in place of the M5-18 to maybe give it some more bite , anyone have any suggestions ?

Thansk.
 
He doesnt want them to be a pain in the ass to get out if the situation presents itself..i cant say i blame him.

Red loctite will come out, it isn't permanent unless the screws are cheap pig metal.
The jb will also bust loose when needed if you use a tad bit for a lock washer.
 
It's likely the bolts need to be replaced if they have been removed and retightened a few time , they won't be biting as they should and cyl material is the hardest pretty much .

I would get new bolts and use a bit of red loctite and torque to spec .
 
the base gaskets causing it.while no ones looking its scaring the screws loose.kill the base gasket and smother everything in indian head shellac.the more the better.;)
 
If they are coming loose they are not tightened properly especially if your putting loctite on them. Mag threads will strip long before a wiha T handle snaps. Stay away from open end lock washers. You'll really run into problems then. By the time the bolts are tight enough the washers will be spreading compromising the torque on them. I don't torque cylinders with a bendy T handle either. I use a solid one that don't twist. It's the only way to get them as tight as they need to be. Also make sure you don't have no oil down those threaded holes before using loctite. Only use a dab at the end of the bolt so it makes it's way up while tightening. To much and it takes a lot longer to cure.


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If they are coming loose they are not tightened properly especially if your putting loctite on them. Mag threads will strip long before a wiha T handle snaps. Stay away from open end lock washers. You'll really run into problems then. By the time the bolts are tight enough the washers will be spreading compromising the torque on them. I don't torque cylinders with a bendy T handle either. I use a solid one that don't twist. It's the only way to get them as tight as they need to be. Also make sure you don't have no oil down those threaded holes before using loctite. Only use a dab at the end of the bolt so it makes it's way up while tightening. To much and it takes a lot longer to cure.


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Id use a T without twist but the stihl one i have wont fit down through the fins on a tecomec cylinder...the case was soaked in the ultrasonic by mike (glock37) and the screws were clean as could be..apparently this 028 case is tough..that handle broke and the threads are fine.
 
I have a friend whos 028 just wont hold the cylinder bolts in..cleaned em good..blue loctite..and they still start to back out after a few tanks of fuel

Big t told me this morning that maybe a M5-20 would work in place of the M5-18 to maybe give it some more bite , anyone have any suggestions ?

Thansk.

Are you using the T27 head screws or the older Allen head screws? The newer T27 screws have that serrated pattern under their heads and hold like a m f er!
I have also snapped off a couple T27 driver ends, one Stihl and one KD but when removing overtorqued screws, not putting them back in.
 
Are you using the T27 head screws or the older Allen head screws? The newer T27 screws have that serrated pattern under their heads and hold like a m f er!
I have also snapped off a couple T27 driver ends, one Stihl and one KD but when removing overtorqued screws, not putting them back in.

The T27s are on there , but they are old..i have some new ones comin
 

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