Stihl 028 Newbie

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kd460

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Well, just picked up a "Stihl 028 AV electronic".

I was looking for a used saw, and based on the info I found doing searches here, I decided to keep an eye out for an 028. $75 bucks later, I have a very clean 028, no bar or chain, and does have a few issues.

Compression checks out at 145 (closer to 150 than 145). Cylinder looks very clean from exhaust port and looking down spark plug hole). Piston has some discoloration lines (up and down) running across the rings, but I don't feel anything with a pick. Rings do not appear to be bound up at all. I'm thinking of running it as it is for awhile, then maybe a super cylinder/piston combo.

Runs good, needed a few adjustments, needed a good cleaning, does not have a muffler so did not run it all that much. Anyone have one for sale at a fair price? Any other models besides the 028 that I can use a muffler from?

The oil pump gears look good, but the gear cover is melted slightly at the spur sprocket hole. The cage bearing shows some discoloration to the rollers but it cleaned up pretty well, and I re-lubed. Why does that area of the cover melt? I have seen a few like that. Not sure of the clutch condition (no bar or chain yet).

Does the word "electronic" on the ID plate mean it has electronic ignition (not points)? There are no access holes in the flywheel for points gapping if it has any. If it is electronic ignition, I assume this is one of the newer versions of the 028?

Finally, what is the bar/chain combo for this one? 16 inch 325 .050?

It has a few other minor bugs, but not worth mentioning. Even though it has a few issues, I am happy with the deal and look forward to messing with it as well as putting it to work. Thanks for your time and help. KD
 
First off, congrats on your 028, sounds like you'll learn alot from this saw.

Second, don't run it anymore until you have a muffler.

This is a good time to get a bar/chain/sprocket that all match up, 3/8-.050 would be real handy, but Stihl has a packaged .325-.063 chain that is readily available as well. Typically this saw wears a 16" bar, and the saw is happy.

Once it's all together, it's a real nice saw.
 
The only muffler that will fit is that from the 028. Plenty of used mufflers available.

Electronic means just that - no points, and likely a single unit coil/trigger. module.

The cover melts or discolors from clutch heat - someone has been bogging the saw with a blunt chain. Figure on replacing the clutch springs to stop the chain running at idle.


There were many bar/chain combinations for that saw, but an 18 inch .325 would work well, so long as the sprocket is .325.
 
Thanks for the replies. Yes, it is a .325 spur. Might as well go with the stihl chain/bar combo to keep it simple (.325-.063) 16 inch, thanks, good advice.

Stopped by the stihl dealer, picked up a few items, forgot the clutch springs. He had a good selection of parts for this saw still (even though parts are discontinued). I'll pick up the springs when I return, and will probably convert to a rim eventually.

Have a muffler on it's way thanks to a member here. I will resist the temptation to start it untill that arrives.

Does the oil pump gears need any kind of lube on them?

Probably go with a new cylinder sooner than I expect. Discovered the spark plug hole was heli-coiled. Never had much luck with those, they always seem to come out sooner or later. Thanks again, I'm sure I'll have many more questions as they come up. KD
 
That helicoil if installed properly,

should last many years in a spark plug hole.
An old cousin of mine advised me to always run a fine wire wheel on the threads of a new sparkplug, before inserting into and aluminum head.
Of course he told me this after I busted one off in an old Mazda pickup I had.
He claimed that a plug would often have a burr on the tread and when trying to back it out, the burr would wedge and then either strip the threads, or brake off. So on that Mazda head I had all four drilled and helicoiled. never had the issue again.
 
I've also never seen a helicoil last long in a chainsaw. Maybe it's just because they get taken out so much more than a car?
 
If it is not loose

You can help the helicoil stay in for a while by doing the burnishing of your plug threads and using a thin coat of never seize on the plug threads. Helicoils do, as Lakeside states always eventually come out with the helicoil on the plug. If the helicoil bothers you you can most likely remove it and install a timesert or keensert but if you plan on going super you may as well run her as is for now.
 
028 vs Super?

So what is the difference between a standard 028 and the Super model? Or between any of the standard and Super models in the old Stihl line-up? Is the Magnum name just a different name for Super?
 
You can help the helicoil stay in for a while by doing the burnishing of your plug threads and using a thin coat of never seize on the plug threads. Helicoils do, as Lakeside states always eventually come out with the helicoil on the plug. If the helicoil bothers you you can most likely remove it and install a timesert or keensert but if you plan on going super you may as well run her as is for now.


Yes, I have used the keenserts (or similiar) in a few motorcycle heads.

The one I like the most is a type that gets tapped to a specific larger size, then the new thread insert (which is a solid steel sleeve that is threaded on the outside and the inside, is screwed into place). It has barbed threads for the last (the very top outer threads) threads.

Once in place, you use a tool that gets inserted into the new inner threads and you strike the tool (like a punch). It now expands the insert slightly, forcing the barbs to bite into the aluminum.

I also take in one step further and use a high temp, high strength loc-tite on the threaded sleeve, to help make sure it stays. Welding up the plug hole and cutting new threads is probably the best, but not everyone can do that.

Funny thing is, I have never buggered up any spark plug threads. I have always had to use these to fix someone elses damage (used vehicles, saws, etc).

I always use anti-sieze on items that I plan on removing on a regular basis like spark plugs. Medium strength loctite for pretty much everything else, and high strength if I don't want it off at all.

Not only does loctite prevent bolts and nuts from coming apart, but it lubricates the threads during insertion for more accurate torque readings and helps prevent the threads from corrosion.

Yes, I want to make the saw a super. I guess I'm looking for a reason to pull the trigger on a new jug/piston combo. I just don't want to get the cart before the horse. I have not even cut any wood with this saw yet. Waiting for a muffler. In the mean time, I'm going thru the saw and checking things out. Still needs a few things like antivibe mounts, and will probably have to rebuild carb (just due to age and unkown history).

Replaced the fuel line and filter today, as well as oil line and checked the screen. When apart, I will probably replace impulse line and really check intake rubber.

BTW, it looks like the oil tank vent is right near the channel where oil comes out for the blade??

Also the fuel tank vent in the air cleaner housing leaks when I turn the saw on it's side. Is this normal. The hose looks pretty ratty. Probably will replace that as well. At least I'm having fun with it, thanks, KD
 
You have used the Keenserts then...I prefer the Timeserts as there is no banging/bending/tapping/gluing/swearing/praying to Norse Gods with them.

They are cold rolled into permanent placement using the inner threads to expand the bottom of the insert.

I see Keensert claims their inserts can be removed with no harm but I would love to see anybody manage it
 
Helicoil

I have had two heliciols in a wisconsin engine for about 10 or 12 years don't remember excactly when I put them in but they still work fine. And even if you have it come out just put another one in. It sounds like you got a good deal good luck,have fun and safe cutting Tony
 
congrats on the 028

You will be happy with your 028
A 16" bar with 325 chain works very well.
I use the RSC chain
Also, the air filter tends to get dirty in a hurry,
I make sure it's clean before I go out cutting.
Good luck and happy cutting
 
Looks like I'm gonna have to bone up on the time-serts. Seems like a better system.

Thanks, I'm having a good time with the 028. Once it's ready for work, I'm gonna dig into the jonsered 510 (I really like that saw!) It's getting tired, but still keeps cutting. Keeping the chain sharp is the key to a tired saw. Probem is getting parts for it.

I figure I could have gone out and bought a new saw, and did go out and look at the Dolmar 5100 (separate thread), but, the dealer wanted ABOVE msrp and had no support in place. Just didn't feel right.

With this 028, while not new, when I'm done I'll have a strong runner, and I will know the saw like the back of my hand. Yes, it's not a 5100, but thats OK, i'll be in for less than 1/2 the dollar amount, and like I tell my wife, it keeps me out of the bar;) Besides, I like the classics, and it's a piece of cake getting parts for it when compared to the 510sp. KD
 
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