Stihl 028 wood boss flywheel removal help.

[briantutt]

I need to get the flywheel off this 028 WB so i can clean and set the points. Notice there is a large thread on the flywheel around the crank shaft. Is there a special puller that screws in on that thread and then goes against the crank? Wondering what that thread is for...

Brian

 

[blackoak]

I need to get the flywheel off this 028 WB so i can clean and set the points. Notice there is a large thread on the flywheel around the crank shaft. Is there a special puller that screws in on that thread and then goes against the crank? Wondering what that thread is for...

Brian

Yes Stihl makes a tool that screws into the threads with a bolt that screws down on the crank and it forces it off. You can get this tool on Ebay or at a dealer for about 20 bucks. It is well worth having this tool if your going to be working on Stihl saws. Here's a link to one on Ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-FLYWH...ultDomain_0&hash=item35ae09e643#ht_1669wt_902

 

[roostersgt]

Place screwdriver behind fins and apply presure while tapping on end of crankshaft gently with hammer. It'll come off. Puller is really not needed. Take your time and go slow.

 

[briantutt]

Thanks at least you confirmed i am seeing it clearly.

Brian

 

[roostersgt]

Did you get it removed?

 

[briantutt]

No i didn't try yet. Can't get my normal puller on it. I could try the hold the flywheel and whack the crank trick but that's easier with two people.

Brian

 

[roostersgt]

Dude, just put a screwdriver behind the dang flywheel and apply a little presure. Then tap the crank with a hammer. Don't over think this. I've done dozens. Hell, I've done it twice tonight.

 

[briantutt]

Dude, just put a screwdriver behind the dang flywheel and apply a little presure. Then tap the crank with a hammer. Don't over think this. I've done dozens. Hell, I've done it twice tonight.

Got it, never tried this method. Thanks

 

[roostersgt]

That's great. Lots of tricks to be learned from this site. I learned it from others who generously shared it.

 

[briantutt]

Breaker Gap

I think I did a bad. I pulled the points off the sand them but now when reading the service manual I need a special tool to set the gap because the breaker arm actually rides on the flywheel and not the crank? Is there a way around this dilemma?

 

[MnSam]

Ummm, yes that sucks. You can usually clean the points up a bit without removing them, but that is a moot point. Stihl made a special tool to set the points, two different tools depending on which model you had. You either need that tool (which is really hard to get a hold of), get an old flywheel to modify into a tool, or find an alternative method of timing your saw. Alternative methods being trial and error, using the timing marks on the case/flywheel, and probably a few others I cannot think of right now. I ran into this issue recently with an 032. I couldn't comfortably time my saw with alternative methods, so I cut up an additional flywheel to make a tool. I don't like that option but really had no other choice. I'll check to see if my tool will work for you, but i don't think so.

 

[MnSam]

As i thought, different between the 028 and 032. One other thing you could do is throw away the points and convert to electronic. Search it up, you'll find the info on how to do it here.

 

[briantutt]

Thanks for the confirmation. The service manual says you can use an old flywheel hub like you say. I guess I will watch for one or convert to electronic ignition like you suggest.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Dude, just put a screwdriver behind the dang flywheel and apply a little presure. Then tap the crank with a hammer. Don't over think this. I've done dozens. Hell, I've done it twice tonight.

One little item I would have added.....

To prevent damage to the threads on the crankshaft, leave the nut on the threads just even with the end.

Got it, never tried this method. Thanks

How are the threads? Does the nut screw on?

 

[briantutt]

I couldn't get it off with the screwdriver method. Had to resort to the proper tool and then it still was a bear. I used a chunk of copper bar stock when smacking on the crank shaft so I wouldn't mar the threads. They are fine.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I couldn't get it off with the screwdriver method. Had to resort to the proper tool and then it still was a bear. I used a chunk of copper bar stock when smacking on the crank shaft so I wouldn't mar the threads. They are fine.

Some of the Stihls I've messed with have been converted over to point-less. I suppose the reason was the special tool thing. Leave it to Stihl to come up with something like this!