Stihl 029 Super won't idle

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nelvin

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It lost power, died, and wouldn't start. I had replaced the fuel line last winter, so I thought that would not be the problem. I blew out the carburetor with an air hose and put in a kit. Then I saw the hole in the fuel line. After replacing the fuel line the saw starts on but will not idle. Both needle are set around 1.5 turns. I have tried more and less. What have I done wrong? Nelvin
 
She wont idle because she is turning too low Rpm or cant hold a steady idle?
If she is too low ,you can increase speed by turning c/w your idle screw.You could also adjust at 1 turn each ,then fine tune.If you dont feel no better results ,then remove exhaust and check piston condition for seizure maybe.How about compression,looks like before ?
 
Remove the spark plug, shine a small light against the cylinder on the exhaust side. I think you will find scoring on the cylinder wall due to a lean condition from the hole in the fuel line. Sorry.
 
Compression is good. If I let it drop below half wide open, I've lost it and it dies, unless I can get on the choke. It's like the idle jet is completely plugged and yet I can blow air through with the idle screw removed.
 
Good compression doesn't necessarily mean the piston is in good shape. Worked on a old Remington that had good comp. but was hard starting, had low power, and wouldn't idle worth a ????. Pulled the exhaust and the piston was tore to hell. Fixed the airleak, but the saw was already toast.

Shouldn't be hard to pull the muffler on an 029. I recall seeing three studs straight out the front.

Chris B.
 
If its not the idle adjustment and the carb has a new kit, then check the fuel filter and the position of the 'lever' in the carb? But if it starts and runs, sounds like the idle adjustment is not high enough OR the Low Speed jet is out too far, normally its one turn and one and a half may be too much for it to idle at low speed?
 
Last edited:
Go through the carb again, but remove the metering lever and needle, then blow out all
of the passages.
 
Fish said:
Go through the carb again, but remove the metering lever and needle, then blow out all
of the passages.
The carb kit included a metering lever and needle, so I blew that hole out before installing the new one - also took the new one out and blew it out again. -every hole I could find. In the carb, that is.
Took the muffler off. Screen is clean. Piston and cylinder look smooth, although the bottom half of the piston is a little darker than the top.
Took the spark plug out. Cylinder looks smooth around the exaust port.
The intake rubber seems plyable and pulse tube doesn't show signs of deterioration.
I had the filter out when installing the new fuel line. It was clean.
I have not changed the idle speed adjustment. Would a kit mean a change is necessary? Wouldn't hurt to try that.
Right now I have the carb soaking in cleaner where I will leave it for a couple of days.
 
Carbs are tricky...it's taken me a while to learn it doesn't take much to make a big change when adjusting a carb on a saw. if it's rev'ing ok, leave the high speed alone, start on the low again from 1 turn out, moving just enough that you can say you moved it. set your main idle screw passed where it should be, that way you can at least get it to idle, then mess w/ the low speed along w/ the main idle adjustment. ok, i'm rambling about something i really should leave to the pros, oh well, Good Luck!
 
Piston skirt could be shrunk from being run hot. Cbfarmall mentioned earlier that they can have compression and be screwed up, I've found this true too. If the piston's skirt is fitting loosely in the bore in a piston ported engine it would change the porting to some degree and the only way it will run is wide open. I think this is why reed valve engine are better in this area, because the piston is not doing the valving the reeds are and you can get away with running a piston AT TIMES that looks like it fell out of orbit.
 
Soaking the carb didn't change anything. I set the idle speed to max. Still would not ilde. THEN, while holding the throtle near max, started adjusting the idle screw in the tiny amounts recommended by 12guns. That did it. With the idle screw off 1/4 turn in or out, it absolutly refuses to idle, but "on the money" it purrs like a kitten.
THANKS TO ALL WHO GAVE ME IDEAS TO TRY.
 
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