stihl 032 ignition module problems

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50blues

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hi,

I have an 032 that I just put an omega (from napa) ingition module in.
The saw's condenser went bad last year replaced it with a new condenser, and now that one went bad. Saw still runs but cuts out real bad at speed.
I just installed an omega ignition module. Looks exactly the same as a nova 2 module.
The problem is it advanced my timing by about 10-12 degrees.
I checked it before i put the module in and after. Before, right on the money, now off 11 degrees.
The question is, should I try and use it this way or will it cause problems? I know in a car engine you would have a lot of problems but in a saw I am not that familiar with to know.
The next question. If I shouldn't use it, what else should I try?
thanks
 
Here's the fix get a WIMA 630v cap there $1.85 solder one end and it goes to the points and solder the other to ground/frame no timing no carb adjustments many threads here on the easy fix but WIMA sells to NASA so there fale safe..good luck
 
thanks for your responses,

I am trying to get away from a points system. Just wanted to try and see how the module would work.

I did use an automotive timing light. stole the battery out of the lawnmower. Used the same set up for before and after timing. Timed it by the timing marks on the oppisite side of the coil.

I have searched a lot of info on this, that is where I got the idea for the omega module. I was just wondering if it would work as is, or has anybody ran into the same problem as i have. Or has anybody used a different module (brand) and had it not mess up the timing.

thanks
 
Too much

10-12° is way too much advance timing, and will harm the engine.

Not sure where to turn from your current situation, but i'd not run it & would go back to points or upgrade to the later 1113-400-1202 or 1206 electronic flywheel & the electronic coil.

Do a search for poster named Lakeside53 & S031 flywheels to get the information & markings. The keyways for the shear key are broached in different locations on the FW. The 031 FW will not work on the 032 because of the starter dog cup differences, but the timing issues are the same.

Here's another great link by blsnelling on the issue for the S031 series http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/111213-2.htm
 
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Second look

Looking at the picures in the old threads, points versus electronic FW differences, the timing would likely be retarded.

Did you remember when you drew your timing marks that the PTO side spins clockwise & the FW side spins CC?
 
yep, spun it the right way, even tried reversing the wires, then it went about 40-50 degrees the other way. I'm going to try and play with it some this weekend, see if I can figure anything out.

thanks
 
Hi,

I have played with the saw a little more. It's not off as far as I thought. Found exact top dead with my dial indicator, and its only off about 7 degrees.

That makes it a total of 33 degrees before tdc, when it sparks. I can probably cheat the coil a little bit, but what would be safe?

If I get it down to 30 would that work or do I need to get it all the way down to the stock 26?

thanks
 
30 might be ok but watch for it getting hot, I never used a light but have done a couple and moving the flywheel about an 1\8th of an inch clockwise seems to work very good
 
Hi,

I have played with the saw a little more. It's not off as far as I thought. Found exact top dead with my dial indicator, and its only off about 7 degrees.

That makes it a total of 33 degrees before tdc, when it sparks. I can probably cheat the coil a little bit, but what would be safe?

If I get it down to 30 would that work or do I need to get it all the way down to the stock 26?

thanks

Check pages 60, 63 & 64 of the service manual. If you need one PM me. I'm running a Nova and it works great.
 
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Hi,

I have played with the saw a little more. It's not off as far as I thought. Found exact top dead with my dial indicator, and its only off about 7 degrees.

That makes it a total of 33 degrees before tdc, when it sparks. I can probably cheat the coil a little bit, but what would be safe?

If I get it down to 30 would that work or do I need to get it all the way down to the stock 26?

thanks

repped for effort
 
I am also running the omega in an 032av. I didn't have any trouble with the installation and it is running well now. I admit I don't fully understand this, but what has actually caused the timing to advance?
 
thanks for your responses,

I am trying to get away from a points system. Just wanted to try and see how the module would work.

I did use an automotive timing light. stole the battery out of the lawnmower. Used the same set up for before and after timing. Timed it by the timing marks on the oppisite side of the coil.

I have searched a lot of info on this, that is where I got the idea for the omega module. I was just wondering if it would work as is, or has anybody ran into the same problem as i have. Or has anybody used a different module (brand) and had it not mess up the timing.

thanks

Can't time electronic with timing marks on flywheel...use procedure described on pgs. 63, 64. Gotta use a dial indicator, 2.7mm BTDC, and provide your own mark.
 
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I put the dial indicator in the spark plug hole. Found what was the highest point. Turned flywheel one way until it dropped 10 thousands, marked the flywheel turned the other way until it dropped 10 thousands marked the flywheel and found the center. That should be the exact top dead center. That is how I have always done it on car engines.

That's the difference between the first reading and the second. The flywheel marks are off about degree's.
All I did to start with was cut the points wire and wire in the module. I haven't even pulled the flywheel.

I'm a little of a perfectionist. Had to check and see if it was the same or not. When I get time I'm going to play with the coil gap and see if that changes anything. I will let you know how it turns out.

thanks
 
I put the dial indicator in the spark plug hole. Found what was the highest point. Turned flywheel one way until it dropped 10 thousands, marked the flywheel turned the other way until it dropped 10 thousands marked the flywheel and found the center. That should be the exact top dead center. That is how I have always done it on car engines.

That's the difference between the first reading and the second. The flywheel marks are off about degree's.
All I did to start with was cut the points wire and wire in the module. I haven't even pulled the flywheel.

I'm a little of a perfectionist. Had to check and see if it was the same or not. When I get time I'm going to play with the coil gap and see if that changes anything. I will let you know how it turns out.

thanks

check your PM...maybe rpm too :laugh:
 
Did your dad ever tell you to read the directions?

I have read on here that people were hot glueing the modules to the coil. That is what I was planning on doing. Today I read all the directions that came with the omega module. It says to make sure you ground the module. I had the lead grounded but not the actual module itself.

I built a little bracket and mounted the module off the coil. The timing is now perfect. It is exactly on the tdc markes I measured with the dial indicator. The factory marks are still about 5 degrees off.

Thanks for all you help. I will be trying it out in the next few days, I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again
 
Did your dad ever tell you to read the directions?

I have read on here that people were hot glueing the modules to the coil. That is what I was planning on doing. Today I read all the directions that came with the omega module. It says to make sure you ground the module. I had the lead grounded but not the actual module itself.

I built a little bracket and mounted the module off the coil. The timing is now perfect. It is exactly on the tdc markes I measured with the dial indicator. The factory marks are still about 5 degrees off.

Thanks for all you help. I will be trying it out in the next few days, I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks again

I was able to fasten the Nova to one of the old point holes beneath the flywheel, keeps it protected and out of the way. Glad you figured it out.

If all else fails, read the instructions...:hmm3grin2orange:
 

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