Stihl 034 Clutch Tightening Torque?

[A31unit]

Can anybody tell me what the torque in Ft lbs is for the reverse thread clutch on a Stihl 034 is?
Doesn't seem to be on the list in the shop manual.
Thanks

 

[lone wolf]

Can anybody tell me what the torque in Ft lbs is for the reverse thread clutch on a Stihl 034 is?
Doesn't seem to be on the list in the shop manual.
Thanks

Do you have a 3/8 air gun ? If so just blip it on for 2 seconds.

 

[carhartt]

I go with about 4 smacks of the cordless impact. Sorry I am no help on the actual ft lbs.

 

[AVB]

It listed; its just the terminology is different. The Carrier (M12-1.00 Left) is 50Nm or about 37 Ft-lbs.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

As the chainsaw gets used the torque on it will be more. The starting torque just has to be enough that the clutch doesn't come off on initial startup-deceleration. Sometimes I just snug em up a bit and never had one unscrew itself yet.

 

[heyduke]

As the chainsaw gets used the torque on it will be more. The starting torque just has to be enough that the clutch doesn't come off on initial startup-deceleration. Sometimes I just snug em up a bit and never had one unscrew itself yet.

before starting for the first time after screwing on the clutch be sure to mount the chain. the clutch can spin off when it hasn't tightened by use. it's quite dangerous and you'll never find all the pieces. be sure that you remove the starter before you tighten the clutch or you could damage the pawl mechanisms. the torque from the motor under load will be greater than what you applied with a wrench. so just tighten it with whatever tool is appropriate and a piston stop.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Just pull the cord out a bit. Quick blip with impact is all that's needed.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

On most of the Stihl saws I usually just have the muffler off and stick a small wooden handle of a wire brush into the exhaust port, use that as a piston stop.

 

[A31unit]

before starting for the first time after screwing on the clutch be sure to mount the chain. the clutch can spin off when it hasn't tightened by use. it's quite dangerous and you'll never find all the pieces. be sure that you remove the starter before you tighten the clutch or you could damage the pawl mechanisms. the torque from the motor under load will be greater than what you applied with a wrench. so just tighten it with whatever tool is appropriate and a piston stop.

Please explain the comment about "removing the starter". I just figured I would have to put in the piston stop and tighten. Thanks

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Please explain the comment about "removing the starter". I just figured I would have to put in the piston stop and tighten. Thanks

That's all you have to do. The clutch doesn't have to be really tight. Like said just tighten it up a bit and put the chain and bar on it and it will take care of itself when you cut some wood.

 

[heyduke]

Please explain the comment about "removing the starter". I just figured I would have to put in the piston stop and tighten. Thanks

when you tighten the clutch you turn the crankshaft counterclockwise which engages the starter pawls and stops the crank from turning, and the piston will not engage the stop. if you prefer to get the clutch tight, say 30 to 40 foot pounds, it's possible to damage the pawls. a piston stop is a better way to do it but you have to remove the starter on most saws.

That's all you have to do. The clutch doesn't have to be really tight. Like said just tighten it up a bit and put the chain and bar on it and it will take care of itself when you cut some wood.

it isn't a good idea to leave the clutch half tightened. if you do, it will become tight only after you run under load. if you want to run the saw after mounting the clutch, to check the oiler for instance, the clutch can spin off the crank shaft when you stop the motor. don't ask how i know. the clutch mechanism has a lot of mass, turning at a minimum of 3000 rpm. it's a good idea to keep it on the crankshaft. also, there's no guarantee that the mechanic will be the next person to operate the saw. if so, that person will not know about the loose clutch and might operate the saw without the bar and clutch cover for whatever reason. he would be at risk. or, this has never happened to me... the mechanic might have a lapse of judgment or memory and operate the saw before the clutch is tight. if you ever have a clutch get away you will realize i'm not being trivial.

 

[AVB]

So I not the only that to chase a runaway. You only do it once I hope.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I tighten them fairly tight but I don't use an impact wrench, just basically the scrench tool that comes with a Stihl. I'm guessing that's why Stihl used that nut size on their clutches, never had a problem yet.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I do take them off with an impact wrench however..

 

[A31unit]

Ok. Just gonna put in the piston stop and turn it counter clockwise until the Torque wrench hits about 37 ft lbs or so
Thanks

 

[HarleyT]

Don't stick anything in the exhaust port.....

 

[lone wolf]

It listed; its just the terminology is different. The Carrier (M12-1.00 Left) is 50Nm or about 37 Ft-lbs.

I was looking for that. Thanks.

 

[A31unit]

Don't stick anything in the exhaust port.....

I was looking for that. Thanks.

Yeeaaaah. I was not planning on that!

 

[HarleyT]

Yeeaaaah. I was not planning on that!

Sorry post #8 had me worried....