Stihl 034 serial number

[jellyroll]

I got a 034 it has a side tensioner and a zama carb i assume its a early version because the recoil tag says west germany the serial # is 118300073x.
Not sure though can anyone tell me about it?

 

[Lightning Performance]

You have a German air filter and most of the early first one or two years had a front tensioner not the side mounted type. Some have a place for the side tensioner to go some don't, check.

 

[jellyroll]

You have a German air filter and most of the early first one or two years had a front tensioner not the side mounted type. Some have a place for the side tensioner to go some don't, check.

it has a side tensioner the safety standards date code is listed for 1985.

 

[Lightning Performance]

it has a side tensioner the safety standards date code is listed for 1985.

Did the 85 cases have one or both mounts for chain tensioner?
I'm still trying to figure them out. 036, 360 and 360P were easier. More info with less changes. My bad.
I should have said front.

 

[Country bumpkin]

It’s a 1987 manufacture date.

 

[pioneerguy600]

It’s a 1987 manufacture date.

plus or minus a year.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I had a early 034 front tensioner saw that had the side tensioner added. Some of the outer plastics over the mount area of case I had to make out of the newer to fit. Parts were getting harder to find even back 12-14 years ago.

Some thread that may help.

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-034av/

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-034/

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

What the early cover in that thread shows was suppose to look like. I used newer and made that work cutting and fitting.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

plus or minus a year.

By the time I get a saw it has parts on it from several years.

 

[jltrent]

Everyone I have worked on with that old filter the flocks is about gone with nothing left but a screen. The saw has ingested lots of sawdust to the point it needs crank bearings. I would replace that with a new one.

 

[jellyroll]

Did the 85 cases have one or both mounts for chain tensioner?
I'm still trying to figure them out. 036, 360 and 360P were easier. More info with less changes. My bad.
I should have said front.

It’s a 1987 manufacture date.

plus or minus a year.

I had a early 034 front tensioner saw that had the side tensioner added. Some of the outer plastics over the mount area of case I had to make out of the newer to fit. Parts were getting harder to find even back 12-14 years ago.

Some thread that may help.

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-034av/

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-034/

What the early cover in that thread shows was suppose to look like. I used newer and made that work cutting and fitting.

By the time I get a saw it has parts on it from several years.

Everyone I have worked on with that old filter the flocks is about gone with nothing left but a screen. The saw has ingested lots of sawdust to the point it needs crank bearings. I would replace that with a new one.

Thanks for everyone's help.
parts are on order.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Everyone I have worked on with that old filter the flocks is about gone with nothing left but a screen. The saw has ingested lots of sawdust to the point it needs crank bearings. I would replace that with a new one.

Crank bearings kind of a pain to install; putting a pair on an 025 tomorrow.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Crank bearings kind of a pain to install; putting a pair on an 025 tomorrow.

They are easy man. Hold the connecting rod and install the nuts on the crank ends or an old clutch spider. Hold the crank with the connecting rod wrapped in a rag set between the crank weights. Just hit the crank ends on a block of thick hardwood. The bearings pop right off 99% of the time.

If your fast at putting together cases just heat them in the oven and drop in the bearings from the freezer stored in a plastic bag. Freeze the crank with the bearings. Stick the gasket to the case side with the pins the night before. Remove the case pins before assembly. Put them back carefully. Sometimes I leave one in with the bolt right next to it. One or two taps with a rubber mallet on a wood bench tilted over and it's tight. Tighten the bolts, back them out and install the last pin carefully. It's much faster then drawing the crank in. I always install the oil pump before the bearings. Seals go in last with a press sleeve by hand most times using some crank bushings it glides right on with grease. Takes about one minute to do each step.