stihl 036 fuel issue

[ripple]

So I rebuilt the carb a couple of years ago. I do have good spark. I have fuel pressure to the carb. I'm not getting enough fuel to the plug though. It almost starts like it used to then nothing. I am suspicious of the clear plastic gasket on the top of the carb beneath the black rubber gasket. Like I said, it was a long time ago when the carb rebuild occurred, so, could I have use the wrong one from the kit? I know that is impossible to answer, but, what else could be causing this fuel problem. The spark plug is not getting "wet" like it should.
thanks for any ideas

 

[ripple]

The filter is not clogged, I'm getting a lot of gas to the carb. I did clean the carb again, completely. I'm just not getting gas throught the carb still.
thanks
I guess I'll try a carb kit to see if I have the correct gasket in there.

 

[njforestfire]

Check the high and low speed needles. Best bet might be to just tear down the carb and clean everything out. Put in a new gasket kit and give it a try. Check the pulse line too.

 

[SawTroll]

Have you checked the tank vent????

 

[West Texas]

If used a lot, it is recommended that you put a rebuild kit in your carb every year; so if its been two years, may be time for a new kit??

Assuming you have a two jet carb, the L speed jet is the one that has to be adjusted properly to 'start' the saw. Max accelleration is obtained by adjusting the H speed jet. I usually start with both jets at one full turn CC. Then when the saw is started and running at idle, I reduce the idle or LA jet to a low speed, then adjust the L speed jet. Turn it out until it starts to run rough, then in 1/8 turn and leave it there. Turn the idle up to about 2800-3000 rpms and then open the throttle to max rpm's. If you don't 'hear' a 4 cycle sound at max rpm, then turn the H speed jet out/open/CC 1/8th turn or until you hear a 4 cycle sound. The saw should be fairly well tuned at this point.

 

[Lakeside53]

If used a lot, it is recommended that you put a rebuild kit in your carb every year; so if its been two years, may be time for a new kit??

Where did you hear this...? Maybe if it's a logger saw with 1000 or so hours in a year or two, but I rarely see a saws that is less than 5 or so years that needs a carb rebuild if used consistently (fresh gas).

 

[thomas72]

Well, check the diaphragm that controls the metering arm for holes and flexibility, and also check the metering arm itself for the correct range of engagement and travel by the diaphragm. You can use high pressure air to blow out the ports within the carb. Also like you said check the other pumper diaphragm as well. The fuel line can also be bad.

 

[Lakeside53]

. You can use high pressure air to blow out the ports within the carb. .

I know what you mean, but... use low pressure or you'll trash the output check valve.. Hold the air nozzle tip at least 3-4 inches from the carb,.

 

[West Texas]

Andy I'm guilty of reading that in an article and repeating it. At the moment I don't recall just which one it was; but, its not an original idea with me.

He said gas was getting to the carb, so I assumed the gas lines and tank filter were OK??? But, he did not give me enough information to know if the seals were OK??? I would first try a basic carb tune up and if that did not solve the problem, I'd try a carb kit, they are not that expensive. And then I'd try another carb, as I always keep a couple extra in the drawer anyway. That would definitely ID the carb as the culprit or eliminate it as a suspect. I think there is a reasonable limit for how much time to spend messing with a carb before tossing it.

 

[Lakeside53]

I think there is a reasonable limit for how much time to spend messing with a carb before tossing it.

Huh??? Slap me next time I auger in Haven't had many beat me though...

Yep - nothing like a "known to be good" carb..