stihl 044 idle issue

[Bill Krummel]

i had a similar issue with this saw about a year or so ago, and it has now resurfaced. the last time it ended up being a cheap carb. after i fixed it last time i had a basic port job on the saw, smoothed out lower transfers and intake and exhaust work. was running fine until last time i cut with it the intake boot came loose causing it to run lean for a second. brought it home fixed the boot but now it wont idle down right. it idles consistent but it keeps the chain running just barely and the idle screw is backed all the way out. my first though was vacuum leak but it was tested with the original issue and when i had the port work done. ant other ideas?

 

[Paul Silvestri]

i had a similar issue with this saw about a year or so ago, and it has now resurfaced. the last time it ended up being a cheap carb. after i fixed it last time i had a basic port job on the saw, smoothed out lower transfers and intake and exhaust work. was running fine until last time i cut with it the intake boot came loose causing it to run lean for a second. brought it home fixed the boot but now it wont idle down right. it idles consistent but it keeps the chain running just barely and the idle screw is backed all the way out. my first though was vacuum leak but it was tested with the original issue and when i had the port work done. ant other ideas?

Low jet not working properly?

 

[Bill Krummel]

Low jet not working properly?

works fine, i can make it idle down with more fuel but odiously it floods out after running for a few seconds

 

[irhunter]

Assuming the low screw is at factory setting, I'd P&V test the whole thing again: case, carb, fuel and impulse lines.

Leaks happen.

Roy

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So the saw runs as it should, throttles up and down, returns to idle- idle can be screw adjusted up and down to increase/decrease the engine revolutions- but the chain is still moving regardless of idle speed?

Clutch forked- either worn out elongated spring eyes, lost a spring or weak spring tensions.

 

[Bill Krummel]

Sorry for the slow reply, no it's running fine but will not idle below 2800rpm which it engaging the clutch. When it idling at 2800 the idle speed screw is not touching the throttle lever at all.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Sorry for the slow reply, no it's running fine but will not idle below 2800rpm which it engaging the clutch. When it idling at 2800 the idle speed screw is not touching the throttle lever at all.

Sucking air- or throttle is not closing off completely.

 

[stihltech]

You have an air leak as stated above. Your choice diagnose and repair, or run it until major damage occurs. I vote for diagnosis, if you will let us.

 

[Bill Krummel]

OK, sorry for another slow reply. i finally had time to vac test the saw tonight and found it was leaking around the crank sleeve on the clutch side, so i packed that with some grease and it slowed to be leaking about 1inhg per minute. obviously in a perfect world no leaking at all would be ideal but is this enough to worry about? if so what would cause a leak this small? also is there a way to seal the crank sleeve in a more permanent way? it seems like an easy place to fail.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Easiest way I know is to replace the leaking seal.

 

[Bill Krummel]

I plan to replace both, Im just surprised they could have gone out so fast. They only have maybe 50 hours in them

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Incorrect installation and or wobbly bearings and they can crap out a whole lot earlier than 50 hours.
Were they quality oil seals- or those you wait for a month to arrive on a slow moving Junk?

 

[ZeroJunk]

Those saws have a step on the crankshaft that is so close to the crankcase if you flip the spring out you can't see it. Won't last long.

 

[muddy42]

OK, sorry for another slow reply. i finally had time to vac test the saw tonight and found it was leaking around the crank sleeve on the clutch side, so i packed that with some grease and it slowed to be leaking about 1inhg per minute. obviously in a perfect world no leaking at all would be ideal but is this enough to worry about? if so what would cause a leak this small? also is there a way to seal the crank sleeve in a more permanent way? it seems like an easy place to fail.

Can you provide a bit more detail about your method of leak test? For marginal leaks like this (and crank leaks are hard to spot) I find dunking the saw in a bucket water is best. You may also find other leaks in your testing equipment or the method stopping off the exhaust or intake port. Google tells me 1inhg = 0.5 PSI. How many PSI did you pump up to, 7 is about right? Did the pressure reduce right down to zero? does it speed up when you rotate the crank? What about vacuum?

 

[stihltech]

Remember the sleeve under the clutch must be packed with grease for the testing. Make sure that is not your leak.

 

[president]

The leak should disapear when the clutch is touqued
down

 

[Gord404]

A friend who also builds saws said to me last night he found the problem with his 385 not wanting to idel down - the throttle butterfly was not closing completly, someone was messing around with it I guess- this was a tilly but have seen that before on all the care they put into after market carbs not rotated correctly into the propper possition