Stihl 045 super electronic no spark

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jackjcc

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So, I've gathered enough from posts to figure out what is what under the flywheel. That was a real pain to get off. I'm a little stuck as how to get the wires out of the case or removed from condenser or magnets.

ab713fefce04e30c10d0e7e89bfc7f52.jpg


So the condenser seemed to be what was wrong with a lot of people's no spark issue. This is an earlier SEM G/E module. I know of the solution to to convert it back to a Bosch condenser using German bought replacement, and swapping to Bosch flywheel. Any way to get this one working again?



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I've been trying to track down a replacement for the module, not much luck so far. There's a lot of similar looking ones with flair metal tabs.

Would this one be a suitable replacement? https://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=106

No, You need a 1110 404 3210 coil shared with the 041 saw series, but have you ohm checked the primary & secondary windings on your coil to see if one side has opened up or shorted?

It is more common to have the donut shaped trigger module fail, instead of that coil.

You won't see a condenser on that set up, as it's buried in the potted epoxy fill...so not sure what you're seeing there. o_O
 
I am looking at prices for new solutions and they are more than it's worth it. I'm looking to repair this sem module if possible.


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I'd like to repair this sem module, does the coil you listed accomplish that?

I'm still figuring out what does what so I may have used the wrong term.


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How would I test that? Where do I stick the probes and which ohms setting should I use? My tester does 200 -2000k


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Then use settings 200 for the primary & 20K for the secondary, the expected results are about 2 ohm & 7K ohms.

BTW, Ignore the capacitance range values in this attached Fluke article, they are 10x too small...
 

Attachments

  • FLUKE Ignition Troubleshooting.pdf
    201.4 KB
It's an SEM electronic module. The potted component took a crap, you can get a new old stock module on ebay for about $130. Ain't no fixing it.
 
It's an SEM electronic module. The potted component took a crap, you can get a new old stock module on ebay for about $130. Ain't no fixing it.

Coils almost never fail.

Thanks Bill, the OP is apparently wanting to try a fix it on the cheap. Coils do
often fail on the secondary side, otherwise Stihl wouldn't be listing them as a separable part
number for this old SEM GE assembly.

If the HT coil ohm checks out fine, and assuming that the triggering/charging coil inside the "potted component" is still working,
then a Stihl 1118-400-1001 or a Nova II module can be trial used for an external trigger.

That triggering coil would be item 54 in the attachement below (similiar type Phelon patent).
 

Attachments

  • Phelon 1974 US3809040.pdf
    527.1 KB
Thanks Bill, the OP is apparently wanting to try a fix it on the cheap. Coils do
often fail on the secondary side, otherwise Stihl wouldn't be listing them as a separable part
number for this old SEM GE assembly.

If the HT coil ohm checks out fine, and assuming that the triggering/charging coil inside the "potted component" is still working,
then a Stihl 1118-400-1001 or a Nova II module can be trial used for an external trigger.

That triggering coil would be item 54 in the attachement below (similiar type Phelon patent).
In the hundred plus units I've had messed with it was always the module, never the coil, bUT anything is possible
 
Here's one I just yanked over the weekend. It's good for about half an hour. I would find a donor saw with points and a flywheel and forget about the module. SEM was supposed to be superior to the Bosch but I have a bunch of duds.1483580832084487456334.jpg
 
In 200 mode, the contacts get from 60-180 always starts small and increase quickly until it stops reading. Same contacts in 20k gets 2-11, 11 shows briefly then back to 2.
21ea21fb922d2e77a5c663dc999a755a.jpg

For the coil or second stage? Still not sure if that's correct...in 20k it reads 2.8 solid with these contacts
4f8a49ba00ceee449c57e57f6618d173.jpg


I was mildly confused by the papers, I'm not sure if I've tested it correctly either. I do not like this system...

I also wonder if the on off switch could have played into my no spark issue. Hopefully one of you can tell me something based on the numbers I got.


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Well, based on the numbers I decided to put it together to the point where I could test it. Before that I sanded and cleaned every contact surface on it and repaired the kill switch wire with air and heat shrink wrap. After all that spun it with a drill and I got blue spark. It may be that it still isn't any good after 30 min of running. But better try this before spending $145 getting parts for the Bosch electronic system. Thanks for the help guys, we'll see how it goes when I cut with it. I dripped some fuel down the throat and it popped right away.


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