cascadejack
ArboristSite Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2012
- Messages
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- 103
Just got the milling bug, bought a used 075 that's in pretty good shape but has a 36" bar with a standard 8 sprocket .404, 0.63 and chisel chain. I guess I could just use that but worried about bar float with the M7 mill.
Looks to me like the M7 is not really the best mill for field work, like I still should get a granberg mill for ripping big boys down to size for the M7 mill. So my question is, should I get a 24" bar for the M7 or should I drill the bar and make some guide mounts?
If anyone read my earlier post, I just edited it because I called a "local" (less than 100 miles from me) shop Madsens, and they advised me to forget about the lo-pro chain on this saw.
I can just get a 24" stihl bar and 2 chains for a reasonable price, with .404 chain I think it's called microchisel chain, and then can resharpen after that to 10degrees. So question 2 is a 24" bar with the logosol m7 the best choice to avoid bar float?
The guy at Madsen's told me milling is real tough on chains so I should just be using .404 chain and stock stihl sprockets, and bars, and don't worry about the bigger saw kerf. I think I am also going to buy a granberg mill from them in person, (versus online)! Does anyone in Seattle buy things in person anymore? Lol...
So anyways, I think I've answered my own questions but will leave this up here for opinion and commentary. I guess in Oregon and WA Stihl is still king and also Husqvarna is okay at Madsens' but that's the only brands they service or are dealers for anyways.
I have a husqvarna 55 that has a 20" bar already, kind of small for ripping but I could probably throw a lo-pro chain on there and bar, what do people think of that idea?
(And use that saw on my mill)
I am guessing the 55 is too small, so the 075 is the best milling saw unless I hotrod the 55?
I only paid 125$ for the 55, and it's an old saw so maybe I just need 2 saws, but I'll research the 55 some more.
Anways, looking forward to other opinions here, I will get the M7 mill in a week or so. Might even keep it, but not sure yet. I'm kind of thinking I could sell that here real easily, and get something like an entry level bandsaw mill instead. But I am going to give it a try all the same, and the grandberg mill seems the best for field milling douglas fir.
The M7 will be a good mill for precision millwork or sawing down larger beams maybe salvage lumber, and that sort of thing. I watched a video where they sawed right through 2 16 penny nails, and it kept right on sawing away! (On the mill, not freesawing) Just a chain sharpening needed is all. Gotta love that, lots of salvage around here, lots of old growth fir.
I am not a carpenter by trade, so this is about my level of skills right now, I am more of a hack than a finish carpenter so post and beam, and timberframe is more within my abilities. Don't even mention "stick framing"... I don't need my own granberg and M7 mill to stick frame.
Okay done editing, sorry I changed my tune but I had no comments yet on the earlier post.
Looks to me like the M7 is not really the best mill for field work, like I still should get a granberg mill for ripping big boys down to size for the M7 mill. So my question is, should I get a 24" bar for the M7 or should I drill the bar and make some guide mounts?
If anyone read my earlier post, I just edited it because I called a "local" (less than 100 miles from me) shop Madsens, and they advised me to forget about the lo-pro chain on this saw.
I can just get a 24" stihl bar and 2 chains for a reasonable price, with .404 chain I think it's called microchisel chain, and then can resharpen after that to 10degrees. So question 2 is a 24" bar with the logosol m7 the best choice to avoid bar float?
The guy at Madsen's told me milling is real tough on chains so I should just be using .404 chain and stock stihl sprockets, and bars, and don't worry about the bigger saw kerf. I think I am also going to buy a granberg mill from them in person, (versus online)! Does anyone in Seattle buy things in person anymore? Lol...
So anyways, I think I've answered my own questions but will leave this up here for opinion and commentary. I guess in Oregon and WA Stihl is still king and also Husqvarna is okay at Madsens' but that's the only brands they service or are dealers for anyways.
I have a husqvarna 55 that has a 20" bar already, kind of small for ripping but I could probably throw a lo-pro chain on there and bar, what do people think of that idea?
(And use that saw on my mill)
I am guessing the 55 is too small, so the 075 is the best milling saw unless I hotrod the 55?
I only paid 125$ for the 55, and it's an old saw so maybe I just need 2 saws, but I'll research the 55 some more.
Anways, looking forward to other opinions here, I will get the M7 mill in a week or so. Might even keep it, but not sure yet. I'm kind of thinking I could sell that here real easily, and get something like an entry level bandsaw mill instead. But I am going to give it a try all the same, and the grandberg mill seems the best for field milling douglas fir.
The M7 will be a good mill for precision millwork or sawing down larger beams maybe salvage lumber, and that sort of thing. I watched a video where they sawed right through 2 16 penny nails, and it kept right on sawing away! (On the mill, not freesawing) Just a chain sharpening needed is all. Gotta love that, lots of salvage around here, lots of old growth fir.
I am not a carpenter by trade, so this is about my level of skills right now, I am more of a hack than a finish carpenter so post and beam, and timberframe is more within my abilities. Don't even mention "stick framing"... I don't need my own granberg and M7 mill to stick frame.
Okay done editing, sorry I changed my tune but I had no comments yet on the earlier post.