Stihl 075

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I've never had mine on the mill but absolutely love it for buckung 24" and bigger logs. Probably my most favorite saw to run, enjoy!
 
Art,

At about 110cc's she will be mighty fine mounted on your porta mill! Speed wise she may be a lil slow but has gobs of torque. At least you get to push it along, as I recall it was a heavy sob.

Jeremy
 
the 075/76 are excellent milling saws. not as high of chain speed as a more modern saw, but plenty of torque, and the exhaust is directed away from the operator. a little vibey, but i really liked mine until it got stolen. as for the air filter i believe the 075 was the same saw as the cutoff saw model ts 760 so you may be able to find parts that way. i know i needed a new carb mount flange for mine and the dealer close to me had it quickly.
good luck!
 
. . . and the exhaust is directed away from the operator.

This is one of its best features. There's no exhaust bouncing off the log up into the operators face and the operator runs cooler too!
This was the main reason I modified my 880 exhaust so it did the same

One disadvantage they suffer from is refueling in the cut is limited to about half a tank. This could be addressed by finding one of those refueling elbows but I haven't seen any on ebay for 3-4 years.

Another small disadvantage is the old school chain tension adjusting mechanism. The mechanism is on the front of the saw so that conventional CS mills get in the way of the mechanism and the CS has to be taken out of the mill to adjust. However, there is a trick that allows you to leave the saw in the mill and still adjust it.

These saws develop their max torque at several thousand revs below more recent saws so the trick to get decent milling speeds is to run greater (cutter-wood-raker) cutting angles. I use the same angle on the 076 as the 880.
 
This is one of its best features. There's no exhaust bouncing off the log up into the operators face and the operator runs cooler too!
This was the main reason I modified my 880 exhaust so it did the same

One disadvantage they suffer from is refueling in the cut is limited to about half a tank. This could be addressed by finding one of those refueling elbows but I haven't seen any on ebay for 3-4 years.

Another small disadvantage is the old school chain tension adjusting mechanism. The mechanism is on the front of the saw so that conventional CS mills get in the way of the mechanism and the CS has to be taken out of the mill to adjust. However, there is a trick that allows you to leave the saw in the mill and still adjust it.

These saws develop their max torque at several thousand revs below more recent saws so the trick to get decent milling speeds is to run greater (cutter-wood-raker) cutting angles. I use the same angle on the 076 as the 880.
Once again the milling master overcomes his recent setbacks and departs knowledge to the minions!

Way to go Bob!
 
These saws develop their max torque at several thousand revs below more recent saws so the trick to get decent milling speeds is to run greater (cutter-wood-raker) cutting angles. I use the same angle on the 076 as the 880.
Bob,

What angles do you recommend for this saw ?

terry
 
Bob,

What angles do you recommend for this saw ?

terry

It depends on the size and type of logs you will be cutting.
Unless you have a lot of chains it's a bit of a nuisance keeping different chains with different cutting cutting angles so I just keep mine at around 6.5º
I have used up to 7.5º on smaller logs and the 075 could probably have handle a bit more in your softer woods (eg 8.5º) - you really have to try things out for yourself and see what works for you.
Higher angles does mean more chain vibe and probably long term B&C wear but it sure speed things up over the standard angles provided by manufacturers.

Once again the milling master overcomes his recent setbacks and departs knowledge to the minions!
Way to go Bob!

Cheers mate, I now have the flu bug back for a third visit, so I am off work again.
The blood clots are also still behind my left knee so it's very light activities at the moment.
I really want to be sorting out my shed.
Last week I scored three, 3 ft wide by 8 ft long x 5/4" thick solid Tasmanian oak (it's just called oak but it's eucalyptus) bench tops and associated steel framed legs. The tops come from a major laboratory renovation at work and they were going to be just thrown away. A few years ago I found a half dozen 3 - 4 ft long lengths of the same type of bench top in a dumpster and covered with rubble. I used these shorter lengths to make an sound reducing enclosure for my shop compressor located outside my shed. This time I managed to find out about the renovation before the demolition and got word to the foreman to have the bench tops cut them up accordingly and leave them in our store for me to pick up. The tops are destined to be benches in my shop but they are still in the back of my van since last week. I'm also slowly working on a similar acoustical enclosure for my dust extractor but this one is made from pine framing and 5/4" thick melamine that my brother found in a dumpster at his worksite. Both enclosures are also clad with colorbond steel sheeting.
 
This is one of its best features. There's no exhaust bouncing off the log up into the operators face and the operator runs cooler too!

I mill with an 075 and agree 100% with this, that is until the mill gets close to the ground and then a cloud of sawdust envelopes everything.

One disadvantage they suffer from is refueling in the cut is limited to about half a tank. This could be addressed by finding one of those refueling elbows ...

I just make it a rule to not start a long cut without a full tank. Makes for more refills but it's better than backing out of a cut to refill. Never heard of a fuel tank elbow. Where can I find out more about it?

Another small disadvantage is the old school chain tension adjusting mechanism. The mechanism is on the front of the saw so that conventional CS mills get in the way of the mechanism and the CS has to be taken out of the mill to adjust. However, there is a trick that allows you to leave the saw in the mill and still adjust it..

This is the biggest time sink during my milling days. What's the trick?
 
I drilled a hole through the crossmember to allow the screwdriver in but the next time I switch out chains I'm off to get a hex head machine bolt and get rid of that phillips.
 
I drilled a hole through the crossmember to allow the screwdriver in but the next time I switch out chains I'm off to get a hex head machine bolt and get rid of that phillips.

That would make sense to change it to something that couldn't slip all the time. Good idea.
 
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