Stihl 200t

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jg55056

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Your not alone if your snapping starting ropes left and right on your new 200t. :D There's a defect in some of the new 200t's. The recoil spring slips out of it's spot and cuts your recoil rope. It happened a few times to me before I took it in and asked them about it. At first they blamed me drop starting the saw as the cause but after calling their stihl hot line they found out that it really was a problem. It's a simple fix, they put a flat head screw in to retain the spring.
 
Take the recoil assembly off, where the rope enters the housing you'll notice the spring being held from turning by the plastic housing, there's a hole next to the spring that you can screw a corse threaded machine screw into, it's beneficial to put a thin washer under the screw to help hold the spring in better. Also make sure you don't have any sharp edges on the washer or the screw (emory cloth if so).
 
Originally posted by Eagle1
I am having a problem w/ my oil cap.
Me too. The cap won't spin around far enough to click shut. It keeps onhitting a flange on the saw so it won't click shut. Several leakages have occurred, and the laundry staff is upset. Sometimes it takes 8 or 10 tries before it clicks down jus tright. Who else is having this problem?
 
Originally posted by Guy Meilleur
Me too. The cap won't spin around far enough to click shut.
Who else is having this problem?

Me. Yesterday I got a saw filled by someone else. Oil cap not all the way on and my leg was covered in bar oil.:( I like the caps but on the rare occation that they won't lock down, #$%^&.:angry:

-Mike-
 
told ya

Master Blaster, don't just tell us. Send a letter to the tech department and ask them to respond to this site. I know they watch this site but let them know it's time to look at it again and tell us what they'll do to fix it.
 
Yea!! Now I know that I am not crazy. I used to think I was filling to high and the pressure would not let me turn the cap all the way. So I started putting less oil in and still had the prob. Even if it looks shut, it is open alittle.
I have been battleing with this for months. I used to dred having to fill the oil " the fear of putting the oil cap on again"

Who is going to spearhead this project to contact still and have new caps for all???:laugh: :laugh:
 
The worst part is I can't trust the groundhands to gas my saw. Between putting the 'new caps' on correctly, and not fouling my oiler from the gunk that accumulates around it, I only trust myself.:(
 
older saws must not have the spring problem

I have an two 020t and the one that is one year old is on its third cord and the one I bought used that is about 4 years old looks like the original cord it is a little worn but works. I was thinking that the new one just had too much compression but now I know thanks for the tip. Has anyone else noticed that the older o20t have more power and idle better than the new ones? Or is it just my imagination?
 
I now have my first MS200t, but I have noticed when you first start it in the morning it takes a while to warm up to spin the chain. I had been blaming my poor maint practices, but today it took 10-15 gooses on the trigger to get it going. I was climbing with Makita's climbing saw, but went to the 200t for the power. I guesse it can't be perfect.

Just a thought

rwilk
 
I'm not sure Stihl wants us to be able to adjust our carbs. With the stupid limiters installed you can't get most of them lean enough. Opening up the muffler a bit will help.

OOPS....this is the climbing forum.

Sorry.
 
Originally posted by rwilk
I now have my first MS200t, but I have noticed when you first start it in the morning it takes a while to warm up to spin the chain. I had been blaming my poor maint practices, but today it took 10-15 gooses on the trigger to get it going. I was climbing with Makita's climbing saw, but went to the 200t for the power. I guesse it can't be perfect.

Just a thought

rwilk

My Stihl 020T ( which is 8 or so yrs. old ) has the same cold start problem. IMO it is just the nature of the saw. My Solo 633 is the exact opposite, starts up and runs without hesitation in cold weather.
 
My new 200T has a 3 screw carb and comes up to full power within seconds. Runs great, and much more so now that the spark arrester "fell out and got lost", which appears to be a low key dual port gimme from Stihl to their pro users.

The carb screws may be ultimately limited, but have no limiter caps, just the old-style bevel slotted screw heads. No complaints on this saw's power, but I wouldn't have bought it at all without the 3 screw carb though.

But talking about 2 stroke engines which take for ever to warm up, and have no power once they do, how about these EPA phase 2 barrel valve carbs on trimmers and blowers now. Combined with strangulating mufflers, its hard to get any power or revs out of them now.
 
dan
??????????

on the muffler there should just be one screw that holds the spark arrestor. if you look at the muffler and there is just one hole with no screw in it then the arrestor is already missing. the arrestor slides into the muffler and is held in place with just one screw.
 
I own three 020's and one 200. I also have the problem with the new oil caps. It wastes 10 minutes every now and then to get it to work. Sometimes just pushing down hard while twisting works. All of my saws are properly adjusted but the first one I bought when they first came out is the most powerful.
 
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